That was my thought; the local garage told me it would be pointless to replace it with the stock and too expensive. I asked them to get a quote and was told they would get back to me and have not heard from them... I will check around for the stock air box. You guys have been/are a tremendous help!

 

There are some seriously good and helpful posts in this thread - nice work chaps!

Steve's post on the intercooler pump had me riveted like a spy novel.

OP - if you absolutely can't find a factory intake locally - there are plenty of us on the forum who now have a Mafioso intake and may be willing to part with thier OEM intake......

 

Pardon me for being forward, but I think you should tell your local garage to shut their trap and let you decide what's too expensive. You are the guy with the car that doesn't run right, not them. We need to make it right, then if you want to incrementally modify things, you can do that. That way you can see if something you do messes it up, and can put it right back if it does.

By the way, I like Chris' idea of a member with a Mafioso stepping up to sell his original airbox. That would be cool.

Just my two cents........

 

even if it is to just borrow it for a few weeks...........to see if the issue goes away

 

Forgive my ignorance, but I went to see if the SC coolant pump was indeed turning on and running. It is not easy to get to, and I am not sure how I would know if it was running or running properly? I received a new scanner today and the following is what I received at idle:

Calculated engine load value: 14%
Engine coolant temp: 206 degrees
Short term fuel trim bank 1: 0%
Long term fuel trim bank 1: 10%
Short term fuel trim bank 2: -1%
Long term fuel trim bank 2: 11%
Fuel pressure: 0
Intake manifold pressure: 12
Timing advance: 4
Intake temperature: 105
Mass air flow: 0 lbs/min
Oxygen voltage: bank 1, sensor 2: .120V
Short term fuel trim bank 1, sensor 2: 0%
Oxygen voltage bank 2, sensor 2: .120V
Short term fuel trim bank 2, sensor 2: 0%
Equivalence ratio O2S1: .992
Current O2S1: 0mA
Equivalence ratio O2S5: .977
Current: O2S5: 0mA

I don't know if this helps at all. I will get another reading while driving the car and having issues and will send that information as well.

 

wnt me to scan mine to see how it matches up since we have the same car?

 

Sure! That would be great!

 

ill post it in the morning tomorrow.

 

I posted a video of the issue in question. The three times I rev enough to drop a gear and accelerate moderately, you can hear it in the background. It sounds like spark knock to me, but I can't be sure. When it is clicking / knocking / tapping / whatever adjective is most suitable, there is an extreme hesitation followed by very slowly increasing RPMs. It is not until the noise subsides that the revs climb faster. Here is the link:

‪IMG_1941.MOV‬‏ - YouTube

 

damn bro, put some gas in it.lol

you ever thought that maybe the torque converter is slipping??

that video almost looks like what mine was doing......there is the quote above, and a link to the actual post

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...p-again-18048/
__________________

 

Haha; I was actually on the way to the gas station! I was out testing it for awhile and was too caught up in what I was doing. Gas be damned!!! I have been worried the TC would be the problem. I just spent $1500 at the shop for plugs, coils, and a new gasket for the oil leak which could be chalked up to a very expensive tuneup and just paid $1000 for new tires (probably need an alignment as the front tires are worn rather badly on the inside). Paid $13500 for the car 4 months ago; a torque converter would put me at close half what I paid for the car less than half a year ago figuring the previous items in. If the torque converter is in need of replacing, I will be kicking myself for not spending the $5000 on a 2005+ with lower mileage... When your torque converter was failing, did you hear same noise as in the video? I don't recall if I mentioned it or not, but when the engine is cold, I do experience what many others on the forum have experienced with wavering rpms by 150-200 revs which can be remedied by dropping it down a gear with the J-gate until the engine has warmed up. I also have issues with lurch. As an aside, my wife was semi against the purchase of this car when I got it until she drove it (back when it ran fine), now she loves it. When I started having problems, I test drove a M45 and my wife and I agreed the Jaguar just has a better feel and character to it! I just want it fixed...

 

Look at the fuel trims: it's adding lots of fuel so you have an air leak or air metering fault.

Fuel pressure 0 says you can't fully trust your tool, btw

Mass air flow 0 is also daft.

Which (semi-useless) tool is it? (& software? if relevant)

 

I had ordered the KIWI WIFI tool that connects to the iPhone; now thinking I should return it and just spring for a normal ELM.

 

I will agree with that! I use an ELM 327, a couple actually, in addition to the factory stuff. All kinds of good software out there to use with them.

Still need to find out about that intercooler pump, my friend! Something else you can do is pull the fuse and put an ammeter in there. I've noted down the nominal current draw for that pump to be 2.1 amps. That's a new pump, so draw of 2.1 to say 3.1 amps, I'd consider normal. You can also stick the probe of a stethoscope through the lower grill and listen to it while someone else turns on the ignition. Based on your symptoms, I'm not going to look elsewhere until I know that pump and system is working.

Get crackin'!

Cheers,

 

I have a DMM, so I will check the current draw in a bit. My wife is a nurse, so we have a stethoscope handy as well, so I will check that too.

Thanks!

 

I couldn't tell if it was coming on using the stethoscope, but the the amperage is at 2.1 at the fuse. Is there another method of telling if it is coming on or does the current at the fuse mean it is working?

 

Should the engine coolant temp be over 200 degrees?

 

It's OK if it is, depending on things like ambient & air flow.

 

The only way I could tell the intercooler pump is running is from the bottom. I got the car on ramps and removed the belly pans. Then did not start the engine but turned on the key. I got under the car and could feel the motor running. It is tough to determine!!
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It may be time to buy some ramps! Thank you!