S-Type / S type R Supercharged V8 ( X200 ) 1999 - 2008 2001 - 2009
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  #61  
Old 08-10-2011 | 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by jagstr03
Should the engine coolant temp be over 200 degrees?
mine is right around 201-205 on the scanner after running around.
 
  #62  
Old 08-14-2011 | 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by xjrguy
Well, that's the first step in getting to the bottom of your issue. No, the induction system should not be in that state. That means part of your airbox is missing, and you are most likely running on hot air from the engine compartment instead of the cool air from in front of the car. Bad news, that just adds heat to an intake system that CAN'T be cooled enough as it is.

The next thing we need to know is, what is the engine temp at the time you experience the noise and power loss. If you only have a code reader, that means we'll probably have to leave that for a possible trip here to Indy.

After that, let's look into the intercooler coolant pump. That is what circulates coolant through your charge air coolers on either side of the supercharger. That pump is located to the right [passenger] side of the radiator and slightly in front. It should run ANY time the ignition is on. It is powered through fuse F36 [15 amp] in the front fuse/relay box behind the RH headlamp. If it does not run, more bad news; that means the charge air is running at the full temp of compression by the supercharger. That will usually cause terrible spark knock and a host of other possibly harmful things. It could explain the falling on it's face when accelerating.

That car has a pretty light history with Jaguar for it's first 50,000 miles, and I know there is a software update that was put out several years ago to address a spark knock condition in the early STR's. I can find no evidence it has ever been done to your car. Whatever the case, we should at some point take care of that.

So there's a little for you to go on to start with. For now, I'd forget about the supercharger itself and it's belt. The above is more important to investigate first. You look into what you can; for what you can't, we can work on scheduling a trip to Indianapolis.

Good luck! I'll be standing by........
I have now checked the pump and it is indeed turning on. Any ideas for the next step?
 
  #63  
Old 08-14-2011 | 07:06 PM
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Though the pump's running, I'd like to know if it's pumping fluid. There are many possibilities for an air-lock to occur considering the maze of plumbing in this beast. Check for coolant circulation with engine off-pump on.
 
  #64  
Old 08-14-2011 | 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by bfsgross
Though the pump's running, I'd like to know if it's pumping fluid. There are many possibilities for an air-lock to occur considering the maze of plumbing in this beast. Check for coolant circulation with engine off-pump on.
How would I go about checking that?
 
  #65  
Old 08-14-2011 | 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by jagstr03
I have now checked the pump and it is indeed turning on. Any ideas for the next step?
OK, so you know it's running, now you need to make sure it is full, bled and pumping.

Attached is the fill & bleed procedure; during it you should be able to tell if the pump is producing.

Cheers,
 
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  #66  
Old 08-14-2011 | 11:37 PM
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Originally Posted by xjrguy
OK, so you know it's running, now you need to make sure it is full, bled and pumping.

Attached is the fill & bleed procedure; during it you should be able to tell if the pump is producing.

Cheers,
I just had the coolant expansion tank replaced; I assume this procedure would have had to be done?
 
  #67  
Old 08-15-2011 | 01:02 AM
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Originally Posted by jagstr03
I just had the coolant expansion tank replaced; I assume this procedure would have had to be done?
I recall a saying about the word *** U ME......
 
  #68  
Old 08-15-2011 | 02:13 AM
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Originally Posted by jagv8
I recall a saying about the word *** U ME......
Haha! The very reason I formed it as a question. I guess it would be wise to go ahead and do it myself to ensure it was done. Will update later!
 
  #69  
Old 08-15-2011 | 02:30 AM
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I'm glad you weren't offended!

I believe the coolant pump runs as soon as the ignition is on so the coolant should circulate all the time as the engine warms up. You may be able to feel hoses and check they warm up consistent with the coolant properly circulating, though access can be "tight" (as in: very). Stay safe, though - remember moving parts especially those that may start suddenly, such as the radiator fans.

JTIS shows the cooling circuits (the Technical Guides may actually be better). On the STR there are really 2: one with the engine-driven water pump and the other with the electric coolant pump mentioned here. They share the single expansion (header) tank. Both can need bleeding.
 

Last edited by JagV8; 08-15-2011 at 02:33 AM.
  #70  
Old 08-15-2011 | 05:39 AM
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Originally Posted by jagv8
I'm glad you weren't offended!

I believe the coolant pump runs as soon as the ignition is on so the coolant should circulate all the time as the engine warms up. You may be able to feel hoses and check they warm up consistent with the coolant properly circulating, though access can be "tight" (as in: very). Stay safe, though - remember moving parts especially those that may start suddenly, such as the radiator fans.

JTIS shows the cooling circuits (the Technical Guides may actually be better). On the STR there are really 2: one with the engine-driven water pump and the other with the electric coolant pump mentioned here. They share the single expansion (header) tank. Both can need bleeding.
 
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  #71  
Old 08-15-2011 | 06:14 AM
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Exactly
 
  #72  
Old 08-15-2011 | 07:42 AM
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Did I miss something - has the intake issue been ruled out or fixed already?
 
  #73  
Old 08-15-2011 | 07:52 AM
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I understood he was buying one or had by now got it.
 
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  #74  
Old 08-15-2011 | 01:12 PM
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I am still looking for an intake. The problem exists when it is 65 degrees or 95 degrees, with a cold engine or a normal operating temp engine, so I am inclined (notice I didn't say assume ;-) ) to believe the air intake is not the cause and it worked fine for a couple months. All of these problems cropped up when I had the oil leak and subsequent misfires referred to in a previous post. after those problems were taken care of, these problems just showed up...
 
  #75  
Old 08-15-2011 | 06:06 PM
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are you able to log your timing? that will help greatly determine the root cause of the issue.
 
  #76  
Old 08-16-2011 | 09:33 AM
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I have returned the first OBD II scanner - is the ELM 327 the best solution available or is there another scanner/software set that would be more worth the money so that I can check the fuel trims, fuel pressure, and timing?
 
  #77  
Old 08-16-2011 | 10:22 AM
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If all you want is generic OBD data from the one main module (PCM), and cheaply, get the elm327.
If you want far more, from multiple modules, get AutoEnginuity (about $600).

You may well have to fight some software a bit for the elm but at the price what would you expect......
 
  #78  
Old 08-16-2011 | 08:27 PM
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Just went into restricted performance briefly and code P0171 has shown its ugly digits...
 
  #79  
Old 08-16-2011 | 09:20 PM
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Found this on eBay and would like someone to confirm whether this is the correct part to replace the PepBoys "cold air" intake the previous owner installed and whether or not I would need anything additional (hoses, clamps, etc.).

2005 JAGUAR S TYPE AIR CLEANER | eBay

Thanks,

Joshua
 
  #80  
Old 08-16-2011 | 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by jagstr03
Found this on eBay and would like someone to confirm whether this is the correct part to replace the PepBoys "cold air" intake the previous owner installed and whether or not I would need anything additional (hoses, clamps, etc.).

2005 JAGUAR S TYPE AIR CLEANER | eBay

Thanks,

Joshua
Provided that airbox is still intact, it should be good for you. And provided it is off the car pictured, of course. Good find!

Cheers,
 


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