I have these plus the Engine Light, ABS light, Brake, and DSC lights. These only come on after about thirty minutes of driving (when the engine bay gets hot). When it cools off and you restart the codes are gone and don't come back until it gets hot again. This sounds like a high resistance ground or bad connection that gets worse when it gets hot (higher resistance when hot) which may be internal to a module. The car runs fine even with all these indicators. It is not in limp or restricted performance mode despite these indicator lights. The only noticable thing is the suspension is stiff and the power steering feels heavy.


I have read through the threads and there seems to be an unlimited number of things that can cause this. I know the battery is one and I have replaced it with a brand new one. I am in the process of checking all the grounds. I have an OBD II reader and I understand it does not read all the codes but the only two codes I am getting right now (other than the P1000) are
P1638 which according to the FAQs is "CAN ECM/IC Network malfunction"
C1137 Specific DTS Code.

Does anyone know what the C1137 DTS code is?

Do I need to take it to a jag dealer to see if there are other codes I am not seeing on the OBDII? Does anyone know an indy in the Savannah GA or Charleston SC area who can read the codes?

ANY SUGGESTIONS?

thanks in advance

 

There are many modules you're not reading (you're only reading the PCM), but first see below (the codes are model and year specific):

 

Thanks Jag - I had posted on this earlier but forgot to include the specific info. I think I have it in my signature but in case it didn't "take" - (guess we'll see when this one posts)

2003 S-Type 3.0L
148,000 mi
(I still get 30 plus mpg on the highway at 70 mph?)

 

Great - you nailed it (the signature)!

The "IC" is instrument cluster. Various modules exchange messages (many details in JTIS if you want to know).

The ECM (PCM) and ICM must basically be mostly able to - the car won't start if not!

So, that one could be a rare fault. If you clear the codes and it keeps occurring then you have a real problem.

Has it occurred after battery change? I'd worry somewhat if it has.

The C (chassis - they use the word fairly loosely) code is also in JTIS.

If you don't have JTIS, it's really worth getting and some searches will help you get it. It has all the codes files and they contain extra details far too long to post here.

C1137 is a DSC CM (CM=control module) fault. So, something bad happened. Doesn't necessarily mean the module itself is faulty or fatally so.

JTIS also contains details of grounds, splices, wiring and so on.

Sorry to say this but if these sorts of faults keep happening you have one of the rare and also tough issues.

It might be worth finding out what other modules are reporting codes, but you need a dealer-type tool. You'd have to either go to a dealer or get (borrow, if you can) AutoEnginuity (about $450).

Could be a bad power/ground, bad network (*) wiring, or voltage spikes.

(*) so far, the CAN would be the suspect because ICM & DSC are both on CAN (as is PCM). Again, JTIS shows and details this.

 

JagV8

Thanks for the details. I have a JTIS CD but for some reason when I try to open the C-series DTS codes I get an error message and it says it can't find the file. I figured it was a "proprietary Jag file" and I couldn't get it because of that. From your post it seems it should be there so I must have a bad CD? I can open the P=series file.

Do you know what the specific C1137 code is or is the info you gave me the specific code (ie DSC CM fault with no other details). It did come back after the new battery and after I disconnected the battery for about 30 minutes and then reconnected. I plan on chasing down all the grounds, etc. and when I get back from a short work trip I have to do I am planning on taking to the Hilton Head Jag dealer to get all the codes read and then I'll go from there.

If I have a bad CD (I don't think its bootleg or anything) do you know how I go about getting it replaced? I don't seem to get the error for anything else so I thought it was normal to get that error on the CD

Anyway, thanks again for your sound advice and I'll keep searching. It runs fine even with the codes but I would guess its "set up" for a more severe symptom, like a compete shutdown especially if its a valid EMC to IC network communication error which might get worse.

 

They're all b00tleg, I believe!

You should be able to browse to it and open it in any PDF reader. Try a path along the lines of
data\dtcen\c200025.pdf

Sorry if that doesn't work but I try not to use Windows LOL

There's more in the file but if you keep getting that error I think you have a real problem which if it's not something like a chafed wire / bad connector / bad power/ground could be a nightmare. Sorry to say it. (Even those I listed can be a pain.)

 

JagV8,
Thanks - I found the file and it says DSC Control Module falure. I realize it may or may not be the actual control module but at least I have found the code. I had no idea you could access at least some of the directly.

I have to get the Jag to the dealer to get some more detailed readouts and I guess I'll go from there. I'll keep you posted on what I find out.

Smokey73

 

I got the codes read from the dealer and here they are:
B1342 - ABS DTC - Control Module Failure - Dynamic Stability Control Module - Possible cause: DSCCM Failure

P1799 - Transmission Control Module - CAN transmission control module/ABS Control module circuit malfunction - Possible cause: DSCCM Failure

P1637 - Engine Control Module - CAN engine control module to ABS/traction control module (dynamic stability control module) network malfunction - Possible cause: DSCCM Failure

P1582 - "Flight Recorder Data Stored" occurs when any of 5 conditions are met (I had a vacuum leak that triggered a Throttle Limp Home mode limiting me to less than 3000 rpm. That is since fixed and I assume the data is just stored now)

Now - all but P1582 seem to have one listed common possible cause - DSCCM Failure. The dealer wants $1449 for the part plus installation/tax so the bill would be $1897. I figure I will try a DSC from a salvage 2003 with lower milage and give it a try. Really don't have a lot to lose trying that first. The DSCCM is part of the ABS unit and I can get one for less than $200 and it looks pretty easy to replace - does require bleeding the brakes but that is a job I have done before. Guess I'll give it a try.

What do you think or recommend. Any tips other than what is in JTIS?

Thanks in advance - I'll let the forum know how it turns out in a few weeks. Smokey73

 

It could be a wiring/connector problem. But yes changing the module is an option and I can't see any reason to even worry about the mileage of the donor car. You're unlucky if it IS the module but I'm sure some must fail. You could get yours reman'ed but your car would be off the road while that was done.

I'd expect to get a used module for a LOT less than $200 (but I'm not in USA so YMMV).

 

Thanks to all the experts on this forum - without your help I'd still be guessing.

I found an ABS/DSSCM on ebay for a reasonable price and replaced it yesterday. After bleeding the brakes it seems to work perfectly. I don't seem to get the codes as I did before. I haven't had a chance to run it a lot but replacing the module seems to have fixed the problem.

If something changes and this has not fixed the problems I'll post and keep you updated but for right now things in that regard seem to be fixed.

In a few weeks I plan to remove the intake and replace all the plugs and coils plus the IMT o-rings. I''ll probably replace the elbows that everyone points out also fail on the back of the intake. Is there anything else that is a common problem that I need to take care of while the intake is off.

Thanks again JagV8 and others for the insights!!

 

Sounds good so far! Post more when you know

How expensive was it?

 

Well - it looks like replacing the DSSC Module did the trick. I have used the car in all kinds of situation that previously triggered the codes and lights and all is right with the world. No codes, no alarms!

Now the cost. The Dealer Estimate was $1887!
My cost: Used ABS/DSSC Module from ebay $149
Shipping $14
DOT 4 Brake Fluid $7
Brother-in-law pumping brakes - 2 Bud Lites
Total Cost <$170.00 (savings of $1717)
No more Codes - PRICELESS

Thanks for all help on this board!
Smokey73

 

Good result!

 

Fantastic smokey! Great to see that you were able to DIY and get it fixed.

BTW the MYs 2003 and up don't have the rubber elbow that you mentioned above. Make sure you replace the lower intake manifold gaskets (seals) when you do the plugs. Some don't do those and it causes headaches down the road. It takes just minutes to replace those when the upper intake is removed.