AC Blowing hotter air than outside temp?
#1
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After replacing the DCCV and repairing the CLimate Control Unit (at the same time) 2 yrs ago and 20,000 miles later, I have the same issue of blowing hot air (hotter than outside temperature). Took it to the same guys, they want to do the same service again about $700???
my question: can both units brake again, at the same time? My guess is one or the other, right?
Im guessing the DCCV is probably bad again. I just do t want to get taken by these AC repair guys, I’m beginning to doubt them.
any suggestions ? Appreciate it!
2006 S-Type 3.0 132,000 and going strong!
my question: can both units brake again, at the same time? My guess is one or the other, right?
Im guessing the DCCV is probably bad again. I just do t want to get taken by these AC repair guys, I’m beginning to doubt them.
any suggestions ? Appreciate it!
2006 S-Type 3.0 132,000 and going strong!
#2
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
After replacing the DCCV and repairing the CLimate Control Unit (at the same time) 2 yrs ago and 20,000 miles later, I have the same issue of blowing hot air (hotter than outside temperature). Took it to the same guys, they want to do the same service again about $700???
my question: can both units brake again, at the same time? My guess is one or the other, right?
Im guessing the DCCV is probably bad again. I just do t want to get taken by these AC repair guys, I’m beginning to doubt them.
any suggestions ? Appreciate it!
2006 S-Type 3.0 132,000 and going strong!
my question: can both units brake again, at the same time? My guess is one or the other, right?
Im guessing the DCCV is probably bad again. I just do t want to get taken by these AC repair guys, I’m beginning to doubt them.
any suggestions ? Appreciate it!
2006 S-Type 3.0 132,000 and going strong!
Luckily my XJR doesnt have a DCCV but had this happen in my 00 S Type.
I spent the extra $ and purchased a Motorcraft DCCV.
Quick test - clamp the hoses going to the heater core. If air blows cool your DCCV is most likely shot.
Also, your climate control panel board could have a burnt trace as well. Lots of info here.. grab a beer and happy reading...
#3
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Would you prefer to guess or know for sure? If the latter, go here:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ol-how-185002/
Don't get bogged down just because the symptoms are the same as the previous instance. Work through post #2 in the guide to confirm if the DCCV is behaving properly. Also see post #26.
If the DCCV itself has failed, this can damage the control module on 2003+ cars. That same post has a link to a service that can repair your module and add an upgrade to prevent future damage.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ol-how-185002/
Don't get bogged down just because the symptoms are the same as the previous instance. Work through post #2 in the guide to confirm if the DCCV is behaving properly. Also see post #26.
If the DCCV itself has failed, this can damage the control module on 2003+ cars. That same post has a link to a service that can repair your module and add an upgrade to prevent future damage.
#4
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
How was the control module repaired? With a jumper wire?:
https://jaguarclimatecontrol.com/new...t-to-see-this/
https://jaguarclimatecontrol.com/new...t-to-see-this/
#5
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Depending on the brand of DCCV purchased (especially knock offs) there are many instances of them being bad right out of the box.
Luckily my XJR doesnt have a DCCV but had this happen in my 00 S Type.
I spent the extra $ and purchased a Motorcraft DCCV.
Quick test - clamp the hoses going to the heater core. If air blows cool your DCCV is most likely shot.
Also, your climate control panel board could have a burnt trace as well. Lots of info here.. grab a beer and happy reading...
Luckily my XJR doesnt have a DCCV but had this happen in my 00 S Type.
I spent the extra $ and purchased a Motorcraft DCCV.
Quick test - clamp the hoses going to the heater core. If air blows cool your DCCV is most likely shot.
Also, your climate control panel board could have a burnt trace as well. Lots of info here.. grab a beer and happy reading...
so that means I’m in the right track I guess in replacing the heater valve.
next is to determine if the CCM is also shot. That will be harder I think, but I’ll do more reading here, hopefully there’s a quick way of figuring this out in the forum.
thanks again for your input.
#6
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
How was the control module repaired? With a jumper wire?:
https://jaguarclimatecontrol.com/new...t-to-see-this/
https://jaguarclimatecontrol.com/new...t-to-see-this/
#7
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Progress!
Continue working through post #2 of the troubleshooting guide. With cold air after clamping off the hose, you've confirmed the DCCV was not closed when it should be. However, you still don't know if the valve itself has failed or it wasn't receiving the electrical command to close.
Heck, the problem could be as simple as a bad fuse. Who knows? Continue troubleshooting versus convincing yourself of a particular fault. Specifically, do the electrical checks at the DCCV connector.
Make sure you're getting power at the center contact and a ground at the two outer contacts. If no ground, a problem with the control module is likely. Details here of how to open the module for a visual inspection:
https://jaguarclimatecontrol.com/new...-way-to-do-it/
If you see damage, it's time to send the module off for repair. Not all damage is visible, so you may still want to send it off for a free inspection to be sure.
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#9
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Progress!
Continue working through post #2 of the troubleshooting guide. With cold air after clamping off the hose, you've confirmed the DCCV was not closed when it should be. However, you still don't know if the valve itself has failed or it wasn't receiving the electrical command to close.
Heck, the problem could be as simple as a bad fuse. Who knows? Continue troubleshooting versus convincing yourself of a particular fault. Specifically, do the electrical checks at the DCCV connector.
Make sure you're getting power at the center contact and a ground at the two outer contacts. If no ground, a problem with the control module is likely. Details here of how to open the module for a visual inspection:
https://jaguarclimatecontrol.com/new...-way-to-do-it/
If you see damage, it's time to send the module off for repair. Not all damage is visible, so you may still want to send it off for a free inspection to be sure.
Continue working through post #2 of the troubleshooting guide. With cold air after clamping off the hose, you've confirmed the DCCV was not closed when it should be. However, you still don't know if the valve itself has failed or it wasn't receiving the electrical command to close.
Heck, the problem could be as simple as a bad fuse. Who knows? Continue troubleshooting versus convincing yourself of a particular fault. Specifically, do the electrical checks at the DCCV connector.
Make sure you're getting power at the center contact and a ground at the two outer contacts. If no ground, a problem with the control module is likely. Details here of how to open the module for a visual inspection:
https://jaguarclimatecontrol.com/new...-way-to-do-it/
If you see damage, it's time to send the module off for repair. Not all damage is visible, so you may still want to send it off for a free inspection to be sure.
- Your posts have been super helpful.
Stay tuned. Thanks
#10
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How was the control module repaired? With a jumper wire?:
https://jaguarclimatecontrol.com/new...t-to-see-this/
https://jaguarclimatecontrol.com/new...t-to-see-this/
Not Sure really yet.
#11
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I had a similar problem with the AC on my car. The AC and the auxiliary coolant pump are on the same circuit. I found out from another member here that if there's a problem with one, it affects the other. I removed the auxiliary coolant pump relay, R7 in the fuse box under the hood and the AC was back to normal. My car seems to produce too much coolant pressure if anything, so I figured not to replace the pump, plenty of pressure without it. It might not solve your problem, but easy to check.
#12
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RESOLVED temporarily : I used the "clamping off the hose" method described by other members https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/report.php?p=2097148
But later I found that the the dccv valve was working, it just wasn't receiving electricity due to some liquid obstruction. Cleaned the connector and that's it.
Thanks for all the assistance!
Happy Jaguaring.
But later I found that the the dccv valve was working, it just wasn't receiving electricity due to some liquid obstruction. Cleaned the connector and that's it.
Thanks for all the assistance!
Happy Jaguaring.
#13
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
RESOLVED temporarily : I used the "clamping off the hose" method described by other members https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/report.php?p=2097148
But later I found that the the dccv valve was working, it just wasn't receiving electricity due to some liquid obstruction. Cleaned the connector and that's it.
Thanks for all the assistance!
Happy Jaguaring.
But later I found that the the dccv valve was working, it just wasn't receiving electricity due to some liquid obstruction. Cleaned the connector and that's it.
Thanks for all the assistance!
Happy Jaguaring.
#14
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One last thing to consider is the source of the liquid. Was it coolant? The DCCV is known to leak internally, into the dry side that houses the electrical bits. When that happens, this pressurized coolant slowly escapes through the electrical connector, as that isn't a liquid-tight seal.
I'd suggest checking once more after a few days of driving, just to be sure. If you find coolant again, even if just a few drops, plan to replace the DCCV. When coolant gets into the dry side, it can short out the solenoid coils, which then draw too much current and damage the control module.
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