AC Trouble 03 STR Need Help
#1
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Last summer, ice cubes...Now the AC is'nt working! I notice that I can't hear the clutch engage. I checked the owners manual for the fuse and relay location, thinking that might be the trouble and switched the horn relay with the AC compressor relay, still no clutch noise or cold air. I'm thinking the compressor or clutch/coil could be shot. Or maybe it leaked refrigerant and perhaps a pressure switch is keeping it from kicking ON? Used compressors can be had for less that $100 on ebay. I'm thinking of buying one and taking it to the local shop for repair. Oh, the right rear wheel started sqeaking too! I'm hoping while it's up on the lift the mechanic can hit it with some miracle anti squeak spray.
Any advice?
Thanks,
Cheers.
Bob
Any advice?
Thanks,
Cheers.
Bob
#2
#3
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I called my mechanic,he said it could be low on refrigerant and that will keep the compressor from turning on, so I may bring it in for a look see before replacing the compressor.
As far as the squeak, it sounds like a bad bed matress when you go slow and take a few bumps. I'm not sure it's a wheel bearing since it only makes the creeky, squeaky noise going slow on bumps, more like suspension I thin. I shot some graphite and slicon spray on every movable link and bushing I could find without success. Taking care of all of these annoying kitty issues is becoming a full time job!
As far as the squeak, it sounds like a bad bed matress when you go slow and take a few bumps. I'm not sure it's a wheel bearing since it only makes the creeky, squeaky noise going slow on bumps, more like suspension I thin. I shot some graphite and slicon spray on every movable link and bushing I could find without success. Taking care of all of these annoying kitty issues is becoming a full time job!
#4
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I had to check, looks like plenty of refrigerant, I pressed the shrader valve and got a healthy blast of gas and yellow oil. I have a can of R134 so what the heck I tried but the system didn't take any more. Maybe it's because the compressor will still not turn on!
What would keep the clutch on the compressor from activating?
Thanks,
Bob
What would keep the clutch on the compressor from activating?
Thanks,
Bob
#5
#6
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mechanic says that the compressor clutch is shot.
Better to replace the entire compressor.
Says its a real proble to get the AC compressor out something about the engine frame needs to be removed?
At least 6 maybe 8 hours to replace.
Found a "like new" working compressor for less than $100 on ebay, should be here tomorrow.
Has anyone ever had the ac compressor clutch short out?
Is the AC compressor really that difficult to replace?
Thanks,
Cheers.Bob
Better to replace the entire compressor.
Says its a real proble to get the AC compressor out something about the engine frame needs to be removed?
At least 6 maybe 8 hours to replace.
Found a "like new" working compressor for less than $100 on ebay, should be here tomorrow.
Has anyone ever had the ac compressor clutch short out?
Is the AC compressor really that difficult to replace?
Thanks,
Cheers.Bob
#7
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#8
#9
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I hope this does not take long, the repair is time and materials.
The mechanic found that the clutch has an internal short by tracing the current to the clutch, he is quite certain that the clutch is shot, because it grounds out at the clutch
I was informed that removing the clutch from the compressor would neccessitate removing the entire assembly it from the vehicle, and then dissasembly reassembly on the bench and that I might as well replace the entire compressor/clutch assembly.
This is the 4.2 STR, and I recall the compressor tucked in the bottom of the engine near the right front tire, not much room in there.
He said it looks very time consuming to remove because it wount just drop out of there when you remvove the bolts, he's convinced other stuff needs to be removed first.
Has anyone ever replaced the AC compressor/clutch on a 4.2?
Thanks,
Cheers.
Bob
The mechanic found that the clutch has an internal short by tracing the current to the clutch, he is quite certain that the clutch is shot, because it grounds out at the clutch
I was informed that removing the clutch from the compressor would neccessitate removing the entire assembly it from the vehicle, and then dissasembly reassembly on the bench and that I might as well replace the entire compressor/clutch assembly.
This is the 4.2 STR, and I recall the compressor tucked in the bottom of the engine near the right front tire, not much room in there.
He said it looks very time consuming to remove because it wount just drop out of there when you remvove the bolts, he's convinced other stuff needs to be removed first.
Has anyone ever replaced the AC compressor/clutch on a 4.2?
Thanks,
Cheers.
Bob
#10
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Steps:
1) Discharge the A/C system
2) Remove belly pan
3) Disconnect Refridge lines from compressor
4) Disconnect electrics
5) Loosen belt
6) Disconnect Rack and Pinion, hang through bolt holes
7) Disconnect steering linkage
8) Remove motor mount bolts
9) Raise engine
10) Remove 4 A/C compressor bolts, 2 easy access 2 not so but easier with the right tools
Reinstall opposite of removal
11) Charge and check for leaks
12) Do the hookie pookie and turn yourself around
Should take a skilled mechanic less than 2 hours maybe 3 total! Seized bolts add more time!
1) Discharge the A/C system
2) Remove belly pan
3) Disconnect Refridge lines from compressor
4) Disconnect electrics
5) Loosen belt
6) Disconnect Rack and Pinion, hang through bolt holes
7) Disconnect steering linkage
8) Remove motor mount bolts
9) Raise engine
10) Remove 4 A/C compressor bolts, 2 easy access 2 not so but easier with the right tools
Reinstall opposite of removal
11) Charge and check for leaks
12) Do the hookie pookie and turn yourself around
Should take a skilled mechanic less than 2 hours maybe 3 total! Seized bolts add more time!
Last edited by joycesjag; 05-03-2011 at 07:04 PM.
#11
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Thanks JoycesJag
It sounds easy to me especially since this will be up in the air on a lift.
The mechanic was concerned that the compressor may not just fall out without removing some subframe, since it looks really tight to him he has never replaced a Jag compressor he has repaired all of my cars for many years and he is very honest and skilled, maybe he was preparing me for worst case scenerio. I think it took him a few hours to diagnose that it was the clutch, and not a switch or sensor he said there were a bunch of HVAC error codes to sort through and he's convinced it is the clutch.
Hope it drops out easy and it will be easier on my wallet. He's tearing into it tomorrow AM.
Thanks,
Bob
It sounds easy to me especially since this will be up in the air on a lift.
The mechanic was concerned that the compressor may not just fall out without removing some subframe, since it looks really tight to him he has never replaced a Jag compressor he has repaired all of my cars for many years and he is very honest and skilled, maybe he was preparing me for worst case scenerio. I think it took him a few hours to diagnose that it was the clutch, and not a switch or sensor he said there were a bunch of HVAC error codes to sort through and he's convinced it is the clutch.
Hope it drops out easy and it will be easier on my wallet. He's tearing into it tomorrow AM.
Thanks,
Bob
#12
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Steps:
1) Discharge the A/C system
2) Remove belly pan
3) Disconnect Refridge lines from compressor
4) Disconnect electrics
5) Remove 4 A/C compressor bolts, 2 easy access 2 not so but easier with the right tools
Reinstall opposite of removal
6) Charge and check for leaks
Should take a skilled mechanic less than 2 hours total!
1) Discharge the A/C system
2) Remove belly pan
3) Disconnect Refridge lines from compressor
4) Disconnect electrics
5) Remove 4 A/C compressor bolts, 2 easy access 2 not so but easier with the right tools
Reinstall opposite of removal
6) Charge and check for leaks
Should take a skilled mechanic less than 2 hours total!
Have you ever been under a 4.2? It's a bit tighter than the 3.0, and the bolt arragement is a bit different. But def still doable. Oh you forgot step 2.5 - loosen serpentine belt tensioner and remove serp belt from A/C pulley
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Take care,
George
#13
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Cheers,
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maxthrottle (05-03-2011)
#14
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I thought so.
The compressor is packed in there pretty good.
I had no idea that the stearing and engine mount needs to be removed and the engine raised in order to get it out!
The $72 used compressor is going to be the cheapest part of this repair.
This is way beyond my skill and patience.
Saving up for another big repair bill tomorrow.
Thanks,
Cheers.
Bob
The compressor is packed in there pretty good.
I had no idea that the stearing and engine mount needs to be removed and the engine raised in order to get it out!
The $72 used compressor is going to be the cheapest part of this repair.
This is way beyond my skill and patience.
Saving up for another big repair bill tomorrow.
Thanks,
Cheers.
Bob
#15
#16
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No problem Joyesjag. I always appreciate your input...I was cautiously optimistic this would be finished by lunchtime.
It is what it is. I'm glad I'm not doing the repair tomorrow.
Thanks,
Cheers.
Bob
It is what it is. I'm glad I'm not doing the repair tomorrow.
Thanks,
Cheers.
Bob
#18
#19
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Cheers!
#20
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Right it was the compressor. The original clutch had an internal short.
I thought about a refirb, I think they were about $400. I got the used compressor for $72 from a 2005 S 4.2 donor vehicle in Wisconsin with about 100K on the clock. (There is snow on the ground half the year in Wisconsin, how much AC was used?) I called the shop and they said it tested fine in the car before they pulled it. I know its a risk with a used part but from the info on this forum I dont think the compressors fail that often.
I dont know how much longer the STR will be around. I'm getting tired of the constant repairs, might be time for a trade in on a newer more practical/reliable vehicle.
Thanks for all of your help.
Cheers.
Bob
I thought about a refirb, I think they were about $400. I got the used compressor for $72 from a 2005 S 4.2 donor vehicle in Wisconsin with about 100K on the clock. (There is snow on the ground half the year in Wisconsin, how much AC was used?) I called the shop and they said it tested fine in the car before they pulled it. I know its a risk with a used part but from the info on this forum I dont think the compressors fail that often.
I dont know how much longer the STR will be around. I'm getting tired of the constant repairs, might be time for a trade in on a newer more practical/reliable vehicle.
Thanks for all of your help.
Cheers.
Bob