Accidental Coolant Mixing
#1
Accidental Coolant Mixing
Okay guys, i'm a 2006 Jaguar S-Type owner. I just got the car last week. As i cut the car off the "low coolant" light came on so i ran to the nearest checker to get a little coolant to add to the resevior. I added maybe 1/5 of a quart of the coolant to the tank to top it off. But as i was pouring I happened to notice that the coolant was blue/purple but there sticker on the car said only use ORANGE coolant. And i think that it may have been orange in the tank.
Now i've been reading all these threads about not mixing different colors.
Do i need to do a complete system flush as I added a different type of coolant (although a small amount).?
Thanks.
Now i've been reading all these threads about not mixing different colors.
Do i need to do a complete system flush as I added a different type of coolant (although a small amount).?
Thanks.
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#6
Recent trade magazine report...
I too have a 2006. Last year at 95,000 I drained and refilled the system
with the recommended Jag fluid, WSS-M97B44-D as indicated in the
owner's manual, and, on the coolant tank label. Prestone makes it,
calling it DEX-COOL, and, you can pick it up for about $13 dollars a gallon at most automotive stores.
I subscribe to a trade publication for mechanics, and, a recent issue
had an interesting article related to cooling system maintenance. In
essence, it detailed the unsatisfactory effect of contaminated fluid, which
included, but was not limited to, water pump failure. You would have to
see some of the photos to believe them. Contaminated and old fluid appears to destroy the bearings and impellers of water pumps.
What should you use? The following quote should help: "What about
top-ups? Whatever is in those top-ups has an effect on cooling system
health because there's a fair chance that if it's antifreeze, it won't be the
OE coolant or a compatible formula. There are many formulas in use and,
frankly, the charts we've seen have some inaccuracies, or, they aren't
specific enough on when a coolant change was made. For example, Ford
had been using two different coolants. One was the HOAT (hybrid organic
acid technology), a low-silicate formula that has been sold as G-05 by Zerex and Havoline. The second is a low-phosphate formula.
However, Ford is in the middle of a changeover to a Dex-Cool type pure
OAT (no silicates, no phosphates; just one or two organic acid inhibitors),
and, it's not compatible with either of the two previous formulas.
Does it really matter if you mix fluids? Three common mixtures were tested by the prominent Amalgatech lab to the D4340 test, the industry's
basic test for aluminum corrosion (just 17% of the 50% antifreeze content
was something other than the OE coolant). All resulted in "R" readings
(a measurement of corrosion and deposits) above 3 to 4 (milligrams per
square contimeter) in a one-week test...all off the chart! A reading of
1 is the specified maximum. Once you get above 3 or 4, explained
Amalgatech, any differences don't mean anything..the corrosion is excessive."
So, that's it from the experts, guys and gals. The other issue mentioned,
amoungst many others, was water. The OEM assembly line uses demineralized water, so the system starts with the best. What should be
used for top-ups? It should be distilled water, NOT tap water.
This article was about 5 pages long, and I've detailed just a small part.
Wish I could have included the photos of the water pumps, etc. that
had been destroyed by contaminated coolant.
In summary, new coolant of the correct type is a hell of a lot cheaper
than a new water pump and/or aluminum heads.
Cliff
with the recommended Jag fluid, WSS-M97B44-D as indicated in the
owner's manual, and, on the coolant tank label. Prestone makes it,
calling it DEX-COOL, and, you can pick it up for about $13 dollars a gallon at most automotive stores.
I subscribe to a trade publication for mechanics, and, a recent issue
had an interesting article related to cooling system maintenance. In
essence, it detailed the unsatisfactory effect of contaminated fluid, which
included, but was not limited to, water pump failure. You would have to
see some of the photos to believe them. Contaminated and old fluid appears to destroy the bearings and impellers of water pumps.
What should you use? The following quote should help: "What about
top-ups? Whatever is in those top-ups has an effect on cooling system
health because there's a fair chance that if it's antifreeze, it won't be the
OE coolant or a compatible formula. There are many formulas in use and,
frankly, the charts we've seen have some inaccuracies, or, they aren't
specific enough on when a coolant change was made. For example, Ford
had been using two different coolants. One was the HOAT (hybrid organic
acid technology), a low-silicate formula that has been sold as G-05 by Zerex and Havoline. The second is a low-phosphate formula.
However, Ford is in the middle of a changeover to a Dex-Cool type pure
OAT (no silicates, no phosphates; just one or two organic acid inhibitors),
and, it's not compatible with either of the two previous formulas.
Does it really matter if you mix fluids? Three common mixtures were tested by the prominent Amalgatech lab to the D4340 test, the industry's
basic test for aluminum corrosion (just 17% of the 50% antifreeze content
was something other than the OE coolant). All resulted in "R" readings
(a measurement of corrosion and deposits) above 3 to 4 (milligrams per
square contimeter) in a one-week test...all off the chart! A reading of
1 is the specified maximum. Once you get above 3 or 4, explained
Amalgatech, any differences don't mean anything..the corrosion is excessive."
So, that's it from the experts, guys and gals. The other issue mentioned,
amoungst many others, was water. The OEM assembly line uses demineralized water, so the system starts with the best. What should be
used for top-ups? It should be distilled water, NOT tap water.
This article was about 5 pages long, and I've detailed just a small part.
Wish I could have included the photos of the water pumps, etc. that
had been destroyed by contaminated coolant.
In summary, new coolant of the correct type is a hell of a lot cheaper
than a new water pump and/or aluminum heads.
Cliff
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#10
Last weekend I was going on a long tip so I did a pre-trip check on the kitty, fluid levels, tire pressure and lights. I noticed the coolant level was near the add mark so I ran out to my local Advanced Auto Store, (Jag dealer 45 miles away). I was told at the store that Dex-Cool was wrong for my car and sold me on Prestone Long Life.
When I got back to my garage and read the bottle I could not find the M97B44-D spec number on it so I didn't use it, made the trip with the coolant level a bit under the max level with no problem.
Now I'm confused, (and thats easy for me). What is a proper coolant to use other then the jag juice?
When I got back to my garage and read the bottle I could not find the M97B44-D spec number on it so I didn't use it, made the trip with the coolant level a bit under the max level with no problem.
Now I'm confused, (and thats easy for me). What is a proper coolant to use other then the jag juice?
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Clamdigger (10-04-2012)
#12
#14
I did alotof research on here and others places and IMHO here is what I came up with. First of all I must give Count_Damonee on his thread in XK8/XKR forum, threat #4 dated 12/28/12 credit. From what I have reserached, he goes into great detail and is spot on, a must read.
So in short, basicaly there are 3 types of antifreeze used in todays cars, all ethylene glycol based. It is the rust inhibitor package that makes the difference.
1. The green type with inorganic rust inhibitors that we have been using since kids.
2. The second is OAT (organic acid technology) which is used for the rust inhibitor package. The orange Jag juice part number JLM20972/3 meeting spec WSS-M97B44-D is this type of antifreeze. Dexcool is another brand.
3. The third type is known as HOAT (hybrid organic acid technology) or(GO-5). It is a combination of ingredients from both OAT and conventional formulas.
Conventional green antifreeze with its inorganic rust inhibitors can not be mixed with OAT and its organic acid inhibitors. Mixing them can cause them to congell.
HOAT with its hybrid formula of rust inhibitors is being marketed as "universal" and can be mixed with either conventional or OAT type antifreezees.
As I said above this is MHO
So in short, basicaly there are 3 types of antifreeze used in todays cars, all ethylene glycol based. It is the rust inhibitor package that makes the difference.
1. The green type with inorganic rust inhibitors that we have been using since kids.
2. The second is OAT (organic acid technology) which is used for the rust inhibitor package. The orange Jag juice part number JLM20972/3 meeting spec WSS-M97B44-D is this type of antifreeze. Dexcool is another brand.
3. The third type is known as HOAT (hybrid organic acid technology) or(GO-5). It is a combination of ingredients from both OAT and conventional formulas.
Conventional green antifreeze with its inorganic rust inhibitors can not be mixed with OAT and its organic acid inhibitors. Mixing them can cause them to congell.
HOAT with its hybrid formula of rust inhibitors is being marketed as "universal" and can be mixed with either conventional or OAT type antifreezees.
As I said above this is MHO
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