Air Conditioning blowing hot and cold
#81
S Type Air-Conditioning Problem
I have swapped the ambient temperature sensor which was faulty and I hoped was causing my air-con problem but it has not resolved the issue. The system was checked and re-gassed this year but now when the temperature is set to LO the system is just blowing ambient air, the air re-circulation light also comes on randomly?
Has anyone ny suggestions where I should start looking to check what is causing the problem?
Has anyone ny suggestions where I should start looking to check what is causing the problem?
#82
#83
Update on Aircon not operating
Update on my Airco problem.
After returning from Spain where my Aircon packed up after being re-charged for a second time in two years I returned to Kwik Fit who re-charged the system at the end of March 2013 to get them to check why the system had stopped working (it was working when I left the centre after the work was carried out)
More or less immediately they spotted dye tat had leaked from an area on the condenser, they weed surprised that ths leak wasn't apparent when they vacuumed the system but HEY HO!!
Cost to replace condenser including parts and re-gas the system £340.........considering the cost of the condenser (c.£120) and a re-gas at c£50 along with the issue of getting the unit out of the car and replaced I guess this is a no brainier?
Anyone any idea if the job is an easy DIY?
After returning from Spain where my Aircon packed up after being re-charged for a second time in two years I returned to Kwik Fit who re-charged the system at the end of March 2013 to get them to check why the system had stopped working (it was working when I left the centre after the work was carried out)
More or less immediately they spotted dye tat had leaked from an area on the condenser, they weed surprised that ths leak wasn't apparent when they vacuumed the system but HEY HO!!
Cost to replace condenser including parts and re-gas the system £340.........considering the cost of the condenser (c.£120) and a re-gas at c£50 along with the issue of getting the unit out of the car and replaced I guess this is a no brainier?
Anyone any idea if the job is an easy DIY?
#84
Changing the condenser is not a hard job but what you need to think about is your skill level when it comes to recharging the system.
Do you have the proper gauges?
Do you have a vacuum pump?
Do you know what the refrigerant and oil capacity for your car is?
Have you ever worked on A/C before?
When changing anything on the A/C system always replace the filter dryer. They are a wear item and do slowly get saturated with moisture and dirt. It's cheap insurance! Your car is quite old and I am sure could use a new filter/dryer.
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Do you have the proper gauges?
Do you have a vacuum pump?
Do you know what the refrigerant and oil capacity for your car is?
Have you ever worked on A/C before?
When changing anything on the A/C system always replace the filter dryer. They are a wear item and do slowly get saturated with moisture and dirt. It's cheap insurance! Your car is quite old and I am sure could use a new filter/dryer.
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#85
Need some help with my AC everyone. I have read a lot on here and have made progress but still no AC. Scenario.... I just bought my 05 Stype a few weeks ago. The AC was blowing strictly HOT air. After reading these forums I narrowed it down to the DCCV and/or the DCCM. The DCCV was leaking so I figured it need to be changed anyways. I then check the DCCM and it had to two spots that were burnt. I have soldiered the two circuits and the HOT air was gone. But its not getting cold at all its like having the vent on.
From here i have replaced the 3 Ambient air sensors and cleaned out sensor above the ignition key. I have also verified the AC is charged and I have not found any leaks. I have checked the fuses and they are good. Anyone have advice were to look to next?
Thanks in Advance.
From here i have replaced the 3 Ambient air sensors and cleaned out sensor above the ignition key. I have also verified the AC is charged and I have not found any leaks. I have checked the fuses and they are good. Anyone have advice were to look to next?
Thanks in Advance.
#86
#87
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#88
Another test I did was using my power probe (if you do not have one of these tools you need to get one..... it will save you hours in electrical trouble shooting Power Probe 3 III PP319FTC Red Red Powerprobe Kit with Voltmeter Accessories | eBay) to apply power to the compressor clutch via the RG wire. I could hear the clutch click but I only heard it once. Then I attempted to jump the power from pin 3 to pin 5 in the relay with a paper clip which gives the clutch constant power. I still did not get A/C and I only heard the clutch click when I initial put power to the wire. So from here I am back for more advice. I have a friend who is an auto mechanic that is going to take a look at it tomorrow with me but still please provide input. I am a skilled Harley Davidson Technician and can usually figure things out pretty easy but I have no knowledge about AC units for the obvious reason that Harleys dont have AC. After this I think I will be very experienced. Thanks again in advance!!
#89
#90
Ok did or a little more trouble shooting today. I check the AC pressure cutoff switch. I am only getting 5 volts O/Y wire which is a sensor/signal supply voltage from the ECM and on the B/G Wire I get no ground. This is saying it should be a sensor/signal ground from the ECM. Which means on the Input wire W/U I am getting no imput signal to the ECM. When I apply a ground and on the B/G wire and Power to the O/Y I hear everything kick in. But I realize I have barely any pressure on the high side. So I am taking it in to my buddy shop tomorrow for him to test the lines and recharge it. Does anyone know what voltage you should get at the Pressure Cutt off switch? Is it normally on or normally off. But tells the ECM to send power and ground to this switch?
#91
#92
You have two switches. You are working on the low pressure switch. It prevents the A/C clutch from engaging unless there is enough pressure in the A/C system. From your description you are low on gas. If the compressor kicks in when you have the jumper in place then the switch is bad (not too likely but can happen) or most likely just too low a pressure.
You also have a high pressure switch but it vents the excessive pressure to the atmosphere and does not control the compressor. Sometimes called a blow off valve or pressure relief valve. The few times I have had one release it sounded like something exploded under the hood!
Please post what the high side and low side pressures are when the car is running. Also the outside temperature and the air temperature coming out of the vents in the dash. The gauge pressures will change with any change in Freon levels (Under filled or over filled) or temperature required. So there is a range of pressures that can be expected.
If you look in the shop manual they generally print a chart with acceptable ranges. Here is one but I am sorry it is not for the S Type. I don't have the shop manual with me right now.
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You also have a high pressure switch but it vents the excessive pressure to the atmosphere and does not control the compressor. Sometimes called a blow off valve or pressure relief valve. The few times I have had one release it sounded like something exploded under the hood!
Please post what the high side and low side pressures are when the car is running. Also the outside temperature and the air temperature coming out of the vents in the dash. The gauge pressures will change with any change in Freon levels (Under filled or over filled) or temperature required. So there is a range of pressures that can be expected.
If you look in the shop manual they generally print a chart with acceptable ranges. Here is one but I am sorry it is not for the S Type. I don't have the shop manual with me right now.
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#93
You have two switches. You are working on the low pressure switch. It prevents the A/C clutch from engaging unless there is enough pressure in the A/C system. From your description you are low on gas. If the compressor kicks in when you have the jumper in place then the switch is bad (not too likely but can happen) or most likely just too low a pressure.
You also have a high pressure switch but it vents the excessive pressure to the atmosphere and does not control the compressor. Sometimes called a blow off valve or pressure relief valve. The few times I have had one release it sounded like something exploded under the hood!
Please post what the high side and low side pressures are when the car is running. Also the outside temperature and the air temperature coming out of the vents in the dash. The gauge pressures will change with any change in Freon levels (Under filled or over filled) or temperature required. So there is a range of pressures that can be expected.
If you look in the shop manual they generally print a chart with acceptable ranges. Here is one but I am sorry it is not for the S Type. I don't have the shop manual with me right now.
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You also have a high pressure switch but it vents the excessive pressure to the atmosphere and does not control the compressor. Sometimes called a blow off valve or pressure relief valve. The few times I have had one release it sounded like something exploded under the hood!
Please post what the high side and low side pressures are when the car is running. Also the outside temperature and the air temperature coming out of the vents in the dash. The gauge pressures will change with any change in Freon levels (Under filled or over filled) or temperature required. So there is a range of pressures that can be expected.
If you look in the shop manual they generally print a chart with acceptable ranges. Here is one but I am sorry it is not for the S Type. I don't have the shop manual with me right now.
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The following users liked this post:
Norri (09-13-2013)
#94
Well all seems to be well. After getting the AC charged I have cold air. Sometimes I have to stop and tell myself to not overcomplicate things. One question I do have though is that I was told there is damage to the condensor. Is this something a shop can tell by hooking up there machine doing a leak test and recharge?
The wierd thing was the lady I set the appt up whith gave me one price, my buddy said they charged a different price and then the owner/son of the shop told me it was going to be way more then both of him when I asked him how the price was dramatically different he made no sense and say I was twisting his words against him. My wife took the car in becuase I had to work. Well they ended up not charging her at all because it took 4 1/2 hours.
I just want to thank everyone for the great help.
The wierd thing was the lady I set the appt up whith gave me one price, my buddy said they charged a different price and then the owner/son of the shop told me it was going to be way more then both of him when I asked him how the price was dramatically different he made no sense and say I was twisting his words against him. My wife took the car in becuase I had to work. Well they ended up not charging her at all because it took 4 1/2 hours.
I just want to thank everyone for the great help.
#95
#97
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Welcome to the forum, don't forget to post your intro in the new members section
You would be best to start a new thread for your problem with ALL the details most importantly what model/year car you have.
You would be best to start a new thread for your problem with ALL the details most importantly what model/year car you have.
#98
2005 STR 63k miles, navigation.
Read through this whole thread here and I am having the same issue. mentioned on here several times. Air started to blow hot and would occasionally cool down at idle but would get hot again when driving. Took it to my mechanic and he found that the Heater valve was broken and Expansion tank coolant hose was leaking, had both replaced and he showed me the old heater valve, covered in dried coolant which is likely what made it fail. So both parts where replaced but am getting the same issue, hot air blowing with occasional cool air at idle. My mechanic told me it needs to be programmed correctly if not it could fry the control module?!? Was told i need to take it to a jag dealership to program this thing but have had a bad experience at the jag dealer here and would rather not take it there if I dont have to. Does anyone have any idea on this? never heard the heater valve needing to be programmed once replaced.
Any help is much appreciated, at a loss of what to do next.
Read through this whole thread here and I am having the same issue. mentioned on here several times. Air started to blow hot and would occasionally cool down at idle but would get hot again when driving. Took it to my mechanic and he found that the Heater valve was broken and Expansion tank coolant hose was leaking, had both replaced and he showed me the old heater valve, covered in dried coolant which is likely what made it fail. So both parts where replaced but am getting the same issue, hot air blowing with occasional cool air at idle. My mechanic told me it needs to be programmed correctly if not it could fry the control module?!? Was told i need to take it to a jag dealership to program this thing but have had a bad experience at the jag dealer here and would rather not take it there if I dont have to. Does anyone have any idea on this? never heard the heater valve needing to be programmed once replaced.
Any help is much appreciated, at a loss of what to do next.
#99
The DCCV requires no programming.
Are you aware a bad DCCV can take out the CCM or the RCCM if you have navigation?
Have you checked the RCCM since you DO have navigation? Most of the time the damage is visable but it's not 100%.
Also get under the car and remove the belly pan. Inspect the A/C compressor for yellow/green stains on the bottom.
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Are you aware a bad DCCV can take out the CCM or the RCCM if you have navigation?
Have you checked the RCCM since you DO have navigation? Most of the time the damage is visable but it's not 100%.
Also get under the car and remove the belly pan. Inspect the A/C compressor for yellow/green stains on the bottom.
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The following users liked this post:
Jumpin' Jag Flash (10-17-2014)