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Thank you I will look into that. Where are you at in your project? did your gearbox line up to the shifter location and what mount did you use for the transmission?
Sorry, I've been inundated with other projects lately. My b5s4 blew an aux coolant pump apart (which is under the intake manifold), I've been making a front mount intercooler setup for my turbo swapped old audi 90 and I was trying to get my trans am running for a last few cruises before winter sets in. The Jag has kind of taken back burner. I saw your PM and didn't intentionally ignore you but figured I'd post answers out here in the open to aid anyone else as well.
My trans is in and mounted. To aid install, I dropped the front subframe down a few inches. Made accessing the top bolts and running the clutch line much easier. The clutch line bleeder screw and brace contacted the transmission tunnel. I massaged with my favorite BFH. I'm using my factory trans crossmember/driveshaft/trans mount. It's definitely a convenient design. The slotted crossmember makes any of their drivetrains fit. The shifter looks way too long however. I ordered a bmw e92 3 series shifter since they use similar transmissions but the spacing on the mount is much different. I'll end up cutting and shortening the mount legs. There were some open holes where I assume a j-nut held the body side of the shifter but I put some nutserts in there for a more solid connection. Pedal box is from an s-type. My car originally had adjustable pedals and obviously I ditched those. I will first attempt sticking with the factory ECU. I've done a lot of CAN sniffing with the TCU hooked up but haven't gotten to the point of trying to spoof it. Still working on the mechanical side among other projects.
Sorry, I've been inundated with other projects lately. My b5s4 blew an aux coolant pump apart (which is under the intake manifold), I've been making a front mount intercooler setup for my turbo swapped old audi 90 and I was trying to get my trans am running for a last few cruises before winter sets in. The Jag has kind of taken back burner. I saw your PM and didn't intentionally ignore you but figured I'd post answers out here in the open to aid anyone else as well.
My trans is in and mounted. To aid install, I dropped the front subframe down a few inches. Made accessing the top bolts and running the clutch line much easier. The clutch line bleeder screw and brace contacted the transmission tunnel. I massaged with my favorite BFH. I'm using my factory trans crossmember/driveshaft/trans mount. It's definitely a convenient design. The slotted crossmember makes any of their drivetrains fit. The shifter looks way too long however. I ordered a bmw e92 3 series shifter since they use similar transmissions but the spacing on the mount is much different. I'll end up cutting and shortening the mount legs. There were some open holes where I assume a j-nut held the body side of the shifter but I put some nutserts in there for a more solid connection. Pedal box is from an s-type. My car originally had adjustable pedals and obviously I ditched those. I will first attempt sticking with the factory ECU. I've done a lot of CAN sniffing with the TCU hooked up but haven't gotten to the point of trying to spoof it. Still working on the mechanical side among other projects.
Ian Great work and thank you for taking the time to post your progress and methods.
Are you able to attach pictures of the transmission View underneath and the pedalbox.
Ian Great work and thank you for taking the time to post your progress and methods.
Are you able to attach pictures of the transmission View underneath and the pedalbox.
Thank you.
I never got around to posting any of the few shots I actually took. The hammering on the the tunnel didn't quite give enough insurance for my liking. I ended up cutting out a small section of floorpan and welding in a pocket. As well as a minimal amount of reinforcement since there was a structural section of unibody frame there. I seem to have not grabbed a picture of this.
Pedal Box during install
I took this time to decat the car as well.
I took about 3 inches out of the shifter assembly.
And here we are now.
I have a manual shifter surround on order as it has a wider opening. Other than that, I'm still waiting on replacement oil cooler lines and then I can fire it off and break in the clutch.
Great progress and pictures.
I have the same 6 speed manual and clutch/flywheel for install-conversion in my X100 XKR which is another type I know.
But before I follow your path, I would like understand Can Bus sollutions a bit better.
Could we keep ECU and everything else operational without buying and installing the costly custom magic box?
If all auto hardware stays in the car (tcm, lineair switch, some resistors then also added to simulate solenoid presence) etc.) then car will pas the ignition on selftest right? If then within 5 sec after fireup the TCM power is cut, it will throw P1794 but engine will then run, right? Also for XKR I know P1794 will not give engine check light or restricted performance, and go to electronic gearbox limp mode right? So engine power will then not be limited is the theory so far. Gearbox speedsensors not providing signals will not be a trigger for mechanical gearbox limp mode right? (Which would limit engine perf.) Because TCMs power was cut directly after startup. Will test this someday. Big chance I get disappointed, but reading the manuals brings me to the above expectation..🤔
Any of you here have come to some sollution for can bus without slushbox😂?
Great progress and pictures.
I have the same 6 speed manual and clutch/flywheel for install-conversion in my X100 XKR which is another type I know.
But before I follow your path, I would like understand Can Bus sollutions a bit better.
Could we keep ECU and everything else operational without buying and installing the costly custom magic box?
If all auto hardware stays in the car (tcm, lineair switch, some resistors then also added to simulate solenoid presence) etc.) then car will pas the ignition on selftest right? If then within 5 sec after fireup the TCM power is cut, it will throw P1794 but engine will then run, right? Also for XKR I know P1794 will not give engine check light or restricted performance, and go to electronic gearbox limp mode right? So engine power will then not be limited is the theory so far. Gearbox speedsensors not providing signals will not be a trigger for mechanical gearbox limp mode right? (Which would limit engine perf.) Because TCMs power was cut directly after startup. Will test this someday. Big chance I get disappointed, but reading the manuals brings me to the above expectation..🤔
Any of you here have come to some sollution for can bus without slushbox😂?
regards, Rob
Those are all possibilities. I would've rather kept the factory ECU and spoofed the trans but I'm just not very good at the CAN stuff. I haven't been able to drive the car yet so I can only do key cycling tests and I've gotten it to not wig out with the autobox but I have no guarantees that it won't go nuts as soon as the car starts up. The TCM is located in the pan attached to the valve body on my ZF so I had to extricate it. It's definitely worth a shot as it would be nice not having to go standalone. If this jag was my only project I might pursue that but I want to get this running so I can finish other things.
Those are all possibilities. I would've rather kept the factory ECU and spoofed the trans but I'm just not very good at the CAN stuff. I haven't been able to drive the car yet so I can only do key cycling tests and I've gotten it to not wig out with the autobox but I have no guarantees that it won't go nuts as soon as the car starts up. The TCM is located in the pan attached to the valve body on my ZF so I had to extricate it. It's definitely worth a shot as it would be nice not having to go standalone. If this jag was my only project I might pursue that but I want to get this running so I can finish other things.
I see, very interested in your findings on that!
Thanks,
The flywheel pictured earlier in this thread by melhookv12 is a direct bolt on. It uses the factory flexplate for correct starter and crank position sensor function (you have to remove the small spacer but it's very easy). And from what I can tell, it accepts a ridiculously common and inexpensive 10.5" clutch set from a small block chevy. Obviously you can buy a mcloed or other brand for more holding power. I just bolted one to my 4.2.
I bought mine from Tom Lenthall LTD. For what you get, it's amazingly cheap. A custom flywheel for ~$765 plus shipping, which also was crazy fast and inexpensive. I received it in washington state, USA from the UK in less than a business week. It did take about a month to make but I think some of that was because the covid shut downs.
Ian,
what do you mean by this?
The flywheel pictured earlier in this thread by melhookv12 is a direct bolt on. It uses the factory flexplate for correct starter and crank position sensor function ........***you have to remove the small spacer but it's very easy**** What spacer?
My swap is mechanically complete. I did some other things at the same time as my trans swap. Replaced radiator, fixed the weird oil cooler lines jag designed and decatted the exhaust. It's sounds burly. Almost too loud. It's so much more fun to drive with a manual trans, though. I will probably go with Swallows racing plug n play Maxx ecu route when that gets released. I've been CAN sniffing and attempting to get the car out of restricted performance mode but I've been pretty unsuccessful. I haven't gotten all of the communication sorted out. It reverts back to restricted performance sometime during every drive. I had been commuting to work everyday (about 60miles round trip) but then realized the front crank seal gave out and pukes oil out at a ridiculous rate. Back burner though, I have to manual swap my truck before I can get back on the jag.
So, quick update.
My car runs. With no check engine light. No restricted performance light. No transmission fault. Does this mean I'm the world's first manual swapped S-type R utilizing the factory ecu?
I had p1000 yesterday after clearing the codes to test and drive around. This morning when I fired it off to drive to work there was just a p1111 code.
What happened between post 67 and now where you were not going to keep the "factory ECU" (which I guess means the Denso PCM fitted by Jaguar) and now? (E.g. Changed the firmware? Kept the TCM? Spoofed something?)
What happened between post 67 and now where you were not going to keep the "factory ECU" (which I guess means the Denso PCM fitted by Jaguar) and now? (E.g. Changed the firmware? Kept the TCM? Spoofed something?)
Well, what happened was the Maxx ECU and custom loom from Swallows Racing was priced somewhere close to $5k USD. Haha. They mentioned they were going to offer a discount for the first few units when they were released this summer. Which, in and of itself is an awesome gesture but I'm just not financially well off enough to easily pay that. I'd love to reward them for their hard work and have a plug and play usable setup with much more functionality but that's a big pill to swallow. Originally I had just decided I would pay what they wanted and live on ramen noodles for awhile. This solution was just supposed to be a stopgap until they released their ECU but it was so easy to build that I think I'm just going down this path now.
Yes, by "factory ECU" I meant the stock Denso unit fitted originally. Hasn't even been "tuned" yet. (You do get particular about your verbiage, don't you? ). The TCM is gone, for now the park/neutral switch is bridge so I can start the car and there is an arduino board with CANBUS shield wired that I tapped into the wires that originally went to the jgate module. With assistance and suggestions from user crbass (he's done some AMAZING work decoding the canbus system on his xk8) the arduino board spits out some code to ECU so it thinks things aren't awry. I still have to add some stuff for the cruise control module (I'm a big fan of cruise control) and probably setup a switchable relay for the park/neutral switch so the ebrake functions automatically like stock. In due time.
Great that you got it to work!
It needed Arduino, which is a bridge too far for me.
But on my X100 XKR I am still hopefull to find a trick..... (TCM can stay in the car, is not in box itself)
Now trying to use a disassembled 2.7D flywheel and make it into a single mass flywheel attached to the auto-flywheel.
09-14-2020, 04:17 PM
). The TCM is gone, for now the park/neutral switch is bridge so I can start the car and there is an arduino board with CANBUS shield wired that I tapped into the wires that originally went to the jgate module. With assistance and suggestions from user crbass (he's done some AMAZING work decoding the canbus system on his xk8) the arduino board spits out some code to ECU so it thinks things aren't awry. I still have to add some stuff for the cruise control module (I'm a big fan of cruise control) and probably setup a switchable relay for the park/neutral switch so the ebrake functions automatically like stock. In due time.
