Akebono STR pads after 25K - some issues
#1
Akebono STR pads after 25K - some issues
So I put a set of these on my 2005 STR with 14K miles and now I have 39K miles on it.
The pads are not worn out by any measure.
The rotors have some wear but are well within spec and can be turned.
But I had a vibration stopping hard from speed and so I took a look at my fronts last week while I was doing the oil/change/fuel filter change.
My LF rotor has a couple of ridges on the inside but other than that the other rotor surfaces look fine.
So I think I'm going to dress the pads, surface at least the front rotors, haven't looked at the rears as yet, and see if that clears up the slight vibration and less than smooth stops.
That's one thing, these pads seem to delivery a somewhat gritty feeling and noisy stop.
Anyone else have some issues with these pads on the Brembo equipped STR's?
The pads are not worn out by any measure.
The rotors have some wear but are well within spec and can be turned.
But I had a vibration stopping hard from speed and so I took a look at my fronts last week while I was doing the oil/change/fuel filter change.
My LF rotor has a couple of ridges on the inside but other than that the other rotor surfaces look fine.
So I think I'm going to dress the pads, surface at least the front rotors, haven't looked at the rears as yet, and see if that clears up the slight vibration and less than smooth stops.
That's one thing, these pads seem to delivery a somewhat gritty feeling and noisy stop.
Anyone else have some issues with these pads on the Brembo equipped STR's?
#2
Did you turn or replace the rotors when the pads were first installed?
I have over 60K miles on my Akebono pads on my 2005 STR. I cut the rotors when they were installed and I still have no shudder and everything is smooth. I had a front tire replaced several weeks ago and gave them a good look see.
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I have over 60K miles on my Akebono pads on my 2005 STR. I cut the rotors when they were installed and I still have no shudder and everything is smooth. I had a front tire replaced several weeks ago and gave them a good look see.
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But the somewhat gritty feel and noise took quite a while to show up.
I'll have them both turned and see how it goes.
The factory procedure is to replace the caliper bolts and NOT resutilize them correct?
#7
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#8
Yes, you're supposed to replace the bolts. I did when I changed the discs (rotors) and pads but I'd already bought the bolts. I actually don't see a reason to replace if you instead put new locktite (sp?) (er, thread lock compound) on the bolts. The brand new bolts come preloaded with it.
Any chance the vibration is a sticking piston?
Any chance the vibration is a sticking piston?
#9
I also reused the bolts after cleaning the old thread locker off. Installed them with new thread locker and proper torque.
Not sure what you guys use but the stick is beyond easy to use and no mess!!
Loctite Blue Stick Threadlocker - Medium Strength - 1/4" - 3/4" Nuts/Bolts - 0.32-Oz Stick Loctite Tools LT37643
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Not sure what you guys use but the stick is beyond easy to use and no mess!!
Loctite Blue Stick Threadlocker - Medium Strength - 1/4" - 3/4" Nuts/Bolts - 0.32-Oz Stick Loctite Tools LT37643
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.
#10
Er, the factory locker is red.
That said, chances of the bolts backing out looks slim and in any case I check at least annually when I do a service - most time being spent looking, poking & pulling at everything and a small amount on changing oil etc.
That said, chances of the bolts backing out looks slim and in any case I check at least annually when I do a service - most time being spent looking, poking & pulling at everything and a small amount on changing oil etc.
Last edited by JagV8; 08-23-2013 at 12:41 PM.
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For the Loctite brand most commonly used in North America, blue is the removable fastener type, and red is the permanent type. The red states on the packaging that it is intended for things like permanently installed studs, bearing races, etc. and will require heat application for removal. I have successfully used the red Loctite to repair a stripped out crank thread that I never had the intention of removing again.
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+1
Red is over doing it. I use a lot of the various Henkle products on my vintage cars and track car.
So as far as anyone knows there's no other reason to not clean the bolts and threads in the receiving fixture (plenty forget about that!) up then use the bolts again?
The paste form in a tube is sort of nice but the truth is that so much gets wasted either way when you use the stuff. The stuff goes bad in the tube with time so wasting a bit probably isn't worth worrying about.
There are two distinct ridges on the backside of one the rotors so turning is in order here otherwise I would try and see if a bit of buildup is the cause. It may be both ...
The braking system will get flushed again as it did when I put the pads on and then we'll see how it functions. The fluid has not languished in there since 2005.
If there's still a vibration I'll look into the calipers.
Red is over doing it. I use a lot of the various Henkle products on my vintage cars and track car.
So as far as anyone knows there's no other reason to not clean the bolts and threads in the receiving fixture (plenty forget about that!) up then use the bolts again?
The paste form in a tube is sort of nice but the truth is that so much gets wasted either way when you use the stuff. The stuff goes bad in the tube with time so wasting a bit probably isn't worth worrying about.
There are two distinct ridges on the backside of one the rotors so turning is in order here otherwise I would try and see if a bit of buildup is the cause. It may be both ...
The braking system will get flushed again as it did when I put the pads on and then we'll see how it functions. The fluid has not languished in there since 2005.
If there's still a vibration I'll look into the calipers.
#16
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