I have a 2001 Jag S type 4.0 and I am getting code p1384 as well as the oil pressure light that flashes sporadically.

When I took it to the shop the guy said he drove it and the oil pressure was dropping down to 10 which is causing the VVT to act up. He said before they do anything they have to change the oil pump but because he doesn't know how bad the earrings may be he recommends that I just buy a cheap engine.

I called another shop that I deal with and he told me that he feels like it was misdiagnosed because in his 20 years of working on the S types that he has NEVER seen a oil pump go out because they are so well lubricated.

What are your thoughts?

 

Ask the second shop to explain the drop in oil pressure.

 

I would seriously question why there are earrings on or in your engine....

 

does this car not have bearrings?

 

Yes 'bearings', but you wrote 'earings' in your first post.

 

Its my wife's car so it has some fashion sense

 

Are you aware of the other problems with the 4.0L V-8? I ask because before you go any farther or spend any money you need to step back and decide if you want to mess around with a 1st gen S Type V-8?

In addition to your current problems. You have timing chain tensioners that are mandatory to replace. This is not easy or cheap and if I were you and STILL wanted a S Type I would dump what you have and look at the 2003 and up (Preferably 2005 and up) model.

I think that is the real question because you can spend a lot of money on the Gen I V-8!!
.
.
.

 

No I'm not aware of anything else that goes wrong on this vehicle but I do know I really just wanted it to pass emissions & last 6 months so I could replace it!

 

Damn oil light keeps coming on now

 

Just had a second shop who said they don't think it's the oil pump but they are leaning more towards the timing (as if that's better) but he said dirty oil & a clogged filter could cause the VVT code so he recommends getting a oil flush & seeing if that helps.

Any thoughts on that advice??

 

Get the various OBDII codes read again and report them here in their entirety before you do anything else with or to this car. I know you have reported one code but there may be more....

Back in the day I would suspect a faulty oil pressure sending unit....

 

Only other code is p0456 for the Evap leak...nothing else came

 

Did he actually connect a mechanical oil pressure gauge? Or was he just saying it must have dropped to 10 psi because the oil pressure light was on? I've had two instances (one on my S-Type V6, another on a Chevy small block) of a faulty low oil pressure switch turning on the idiot light when the pressure was fine. Details of my Jag experience here:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...-switch-83426/

Also, what viscosity oil is presently installed, and how old is it? If a mechanical gauge confirms actual low oil pressure, and you're running 5W-30, the "fix" could be as simple as running a slightly thicker oil such as 10W-40. Personally, I'm lazy and proud of it. Cheap, too. I'd suggest a fresh filter and 10W-40 oil and see what happens.

Now, before I get beat up by other members, I know thicker oil is not an approved repair. But on old, tired engines, I've got MANY more happy miles from them with the simple swap to thicker oil. Heck, I've even cheated the grim reaper with 20W-50 or straight 30W in some engines, but that is really pushing it. I offer that as an example with low-tech engines. I think a Jag V8 would balk at such heavy oil. I'm just trying to illustrate the concept that the next heavier grade oil may be all that you need and could save you a LOT of money and frustration.

Here's another thread concerning VVT faults (different codes than yours) and oil viscosity. The original poster never reported back about what finally fixed it, so take it with a grain of salt. Also note he was NOT reporting the low oil pressure idiot light coming on:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...-issue-144293/

More on your VVT code in a minute.

Back to your motor, we have no idea how many miles it has or what sort of service history. The oil pressure light could be as simple as a bad switch. I highly doubt it's the oil pump. From my experience, actual low oil pressure is caused by one of three things, in no particular order:

1) Worn crankshaft and connecting rod bearings
2) Worn crankshaft and connecting rod bearings
3) Worn crankshaft and connecting rod bearings

I certainly don't mean to scare you, though. Do make sure of the actual oil pressure present and go from there. Also, keep in mind, if you have true low oil pressure, you'll generally hear some clatter. Certainly don't run it that way. If you hear clatter, shut it down immediately.

Also, I am NOT a big fan of oil flushes. My personal crackpot theory is that once debris has settled out as sludge, it's better off to leave it as is, instead of stirring it up with a flush. Leave that crud alone where it's relatively harmless in the bottom of the oil pan, instead of forcing it to recirculate through precision passages inside the engine.

Which leads us to the P1384 fault. Here's the fault definition:

Variable Valve Timing Solenoid A Circuit

I don't have my manuals handy, but believe that fault refers to the electrical side of the VVT actuator. I don't think it has anything to do with the possibility of clogged oil passages, but am not 100% positive. If you were having a problem with the muscle oil supply for the VVT actuators (engine oil pressure supplies the force to actually move the actuators), I think you'd have different codes, such as P1383 or P1388. Those codes are for Variable Cam Timing Overretarded (Banks 1 and 2, respectively), meaning the position feedback didn't match what was commanded, and is often caused by low oil pressure or a clogged passage inside the actuator.

So I'm thinking you may have two faults and they aren't necessarily related. Hopefully somebody can weigh in on the exact troubleshooting steps for the P1384 fault.

 

^^^ i AGREE WITH MOST OF THE ABOVE AND WOULD JUS CHANGE THE OIL AND GO THICKER AS A CHEAP INTIAL DIAGNOSIS BEFORE JUMPING OFF A BRIDGE CAUSE THERES A FIRE DOWN THE STREET. BUT KEEP IN MIND THAT A COMMON CAUSE OF LOSS OF OIL PRESSURE ON THIS ENGINE IS A TENSIONER/S THAT ARE CRACKED/BROKEN BLEEDING DOWN AND LOWERING OIL PRESSURE. THE STYPE IS NOT EASY TO PULL BOTH CAM COVERS AND LOOK. BUT THAT WOULD BE MY SECOND COURSE OF ACTION AFTER THE OIL CHANGE AND BEFORE TAKING IT AND DRIVING OFF. CHANGE OIL AND FILTER AND YES GO TO 10-40. AND SEE IF PRESSURE COMES UP. IF NOT OR NOT ENOUGH THEN HAVE COVERS PULLED AND LOOK AT UPPER TENSIONERS BOTH SIDES. FROM THERE YOU NEED TO ACCESS THE OVERALL CONDITION OF CAR(IS IT WORTH A COUPLE 1000 IN REPAIRS. OR NOT? CAUSE YOU WONT BE INCREASING THE VALUE BY THOSE REPAIRS) IF NOT THEN TIME TO CONSIDER MOVING ON AND USING THE MONEY FOR DOWN PAYMENT ON ANOTHER

 

I have a V8 with 92,500 miles on it and honestly I don't know what is installed in there right now but I will look to do a oil flush and change to see if we can get the light off and pass emissions.

The tensioners is another one of my concerns...I hope that that is not the case....

 

At 92k I seriously doubt you have any major issues. But I dont think tensioners as major unless you dont address the issue. And at 92k I would pull the cam covers to look at what style are in there being prepared to change tensioners with cam cover gaskets and a new set of plugs which youre due for. And at 92k I wouldnt bother with spending money on diagnosis of running a pressure check etc. The senders are right by the oil filter and easily changed. you spend just as much running pressure checks etc as you would if you just change the damn thing wether bad or not. Youre trying to eliminate the usual suspects like a murder case. Sometimes its is cheaper to replace a suspected part wether you know for sure or not because knowing for sure sometimes costs more than the replacement..follow?

 

That will need to be addressed separately and is also a fail for emissions tests.

 

Agreed, good point. As cheap and lazy as I am, I hang my head in shame...

Does anybody have any troubleshooting info for the p1384 code? I can't find anything in any of my manuals. I'm still curious if this particular code only concerns the electrical portion, and wouldn't normally be thrown for a problem with the muscle oil supply.

 

Update:Just found out that the car had no oil AT ALL! And that might be the cause of the VVT code! I'm lucky the damage wasn't worse. This is my wife's car & I gotta do a better job of checking it.

The more pressing issue are the codes p1383 & p1388. They said the smoke test revealed that the right tank under the seat on the drivers side is severely leaking. Is this a common issue? The said they would try to drop it down to fix it but it would take 4-5 hours labor OuCH! If they couldn't fix it I would need to put a used gas tank on it...I guess it could be worse. Has anybody else had this issue and/or fixed it?

 

Look up the code on this chart for your car. I agree with changing the oil and filter first.

Link http://jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepa...TC_EOBD_R2.pdf