You're doing well. If they turn out to be the right hoses, there's a Confirmed Ford Parts or some such title thread you might add them to.

 

This is the Lincoln part number for the elbow

Link http://jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepa...cuumLeak-9.jpg

Link JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

 

Well moving along so far so good with only one minor disaster. On the good side, all the new parts I ordered are were the correct part numbers. Once I finish this project I'll create a "coil changes for '99-->'01 model guys with it all pretty and easy for stickyville.

I was able to replace the dreaded lower elbow without issue. Turns out mine was fine and it great condition. My car only has 47k original miles but being an '01 I figured might as well since I was down in the motor anyway. It was a real bear to get on, even with my having used WD-40 inside it to help matters out.

The winning strategy was to start it from the passenger side then go over to the driver side of the engine bay and help it the rest of the way on. It's seated well and I'm happy it's on correctly.

The rotted breather hose in the back looked like it had actually been cooked from the inside out. It was far beyond just dry rot. It looked dry rotted on the outside but it was absolutely DESTROYED on the inside. It was missing a lot of rubber also.

I replaced the lower intake gaskets set. Nothing tricky here except that you have to seat the aligning dowels that are built into them because they don't just sit down in the aligment holes in the block. I tapped them flush with a long blunt punch.

Then the disaster. So in the beginning of this thread I mentioned the "mystery part" which turned out to be the plastic windshield rivet. I had found the outside donut of the rivet but never could find the inner peg. Today I found the peg. It was stuck to the side of the plenum with a little dab of congealed oil. Right as I saw it it was like it looked at me then dove straight down my intake port. MF.

I can see it down sitting on my valve but it is mostly behind the "stem" of the valve. I tried to get it with a fish tool but it's too small and the fish tool is too big.

Next step is to put some ducktape on the fish tool stickyside out but wrapped around the tool so it can't fall off down there. Hopefully it'll grab that little lightweight piece of ****.

I'm a professional engineer by trade and true to most any complicated project, 90% of the time is spent fixing the one pain in the *** gotcha and 10% on everything else you thought was going to take the time.

It could be worse. The valve could have been open.

I took as much care as any human could have not to drop anything down there but whatever.

So the final piece I needed came in today also (upper intake gaskets) so once that little pita is out of my intake port it should be all downhill knock on wood.

I've still got to replace valve cover gaskets but they appear to be fairly easily accessible so I'm hoping it's not too gruesome.

Excited to drive the car firing on all cylinders. I bought it with two coils failed and obviously some monster intake leaks due to the rotted rubber parts.

I'll try to post up some pics of the righteously destroyed intake breather rubber piece so you guys can see what I'm talking about.

 

Okay so made some progress today. Tried several things to get the little plastic trim pin out of the valve area and finally the combination of parts grabber and a coat hanger got it. Thank the man above.

So I was able to replace the passenger side valve cover gasket but then realized that it wasn't leaking. The issue was that the two little donuts on the two cylinders at the front and back of the engine by spark plugs were baked, swollen, and leaking. This is the source of the oil that was flooding the coils and spark plug wells.

I could have just replaced those and been good but oh well. I had already replaced the gasket by the time I got to the donuts. At least it has new gaskets and donuts all the way around.

I RTV dobbed at the points on the gasket where the head meets the block. You could see that the factory had done that pretty generously with RTV. I razor scraped theirs off and replaced it.

I was worn out after all that work (about three hours) so called it a day as I lost the light. It was threatening rain all day so stoked that it held off.

Tomorrow with any luck the weather will hold (I don't have a garage. Have to work in driveway) and I'll be able to bolt the intake back on and see whats what.

I bought the car with two dead coils so really hoping to drive her with a real engine to see what the car is like.

I had a 2001 2.5l X-type sport I loved. Excited to see if I can feel much difference with the 3.0l and new plugs/tuneup.

 

Sounds like you're getting there.

 

Success!! Bolted her all back together today. I replaced all the dry rotted rubber pieces I pointed out earlier (the two 3/8" hoses that connect to the throttle body) with a $1.07 piece of hose from the local O'reilley's. Worked perfectly. The OEM pieces were actually a tad short so I cut these to size and hopefully with less stress on the rubber they won't tear up so fast.



When I looked in the throttle body I wasn't excited about the amount of crap baked onto the butterfly. The backside (facing the manifold, not the MAF) had about an 1/8" of what looked like burnt brownies cooked on it. I opened the butterfly and could see there was a little lip of crap right where it closed as well which can't helping airflow at opening throttle. I cleaned that all out with a soft wire brush and brake cleaner. She's almost perfect now. Not sure if that did anything but it made me feel a lot better.


When I first started it it was in limp mode so I cleared the codes and restarted it.

It ran perfectly but wouldn't rev over 3k RPM. I thought maybe it was still detecting a loose connector or something and limiting rev due to limp mode/etc, but all it took was to drive it a couple of blocks and I guess it built up enough vacuum to start running perfect.

She runs like a striped *** ape now. Very happy. I've never driven the car running on all cylinders before. Sport mode even better.

I live on the other side of a tall mountain from Honolulu so it's great to be able to power up those hills instead of lugging my little fourbanger CRV over the hump.

Couldn't be happier.





So on the way back from celebration dinner with the wife (bought the car as a baby gift for her. Baby due in a few weeks) it threw another code. I hoped it was going to be an O2 sensor (I have four new ones sitting on my desk waiting to be installed. Couldn't get under the car without ramps because it wasn't running with me having the intake off).

I closed my eyes, plugged in the scanner and .. P0136. Bad 02 sensor. YES! Only one code. Stoked. So I'll throw those bad boys on as soon as I get a chance and move on to oil change/cosmetics/etc. I was dreading ruined catalytic converters due do previous owner driving unknown miles on bad coils. Drove about twenty miles and only the one code so here's hoping.

So now total out of pocket for 2001 S-type with 47k original miles is $2300. $2100 for the car and $200 in parts. I still have to register it and I've got a new ebay bumper coming in from the mainland that will fix the last paint scrape issue and we should be good. Scored the bumper in perfect condition for $200 so if we add that $2500 but I usually don't count cosmetics in car price.

I'll write up a parts list page for us 99-2002.5 guys so you don't have to spend eight hours parts hunting like I did.

Thanks for all the help everyone. Great forum!

 

It probably has a rev limiter at 3K so relax on that one.

When you get a chance it's worth watching LTFTs (long term fuel trims) at idle and at highish (2500) revs (hot engine, parked). You want them all within (say) 5 of zero.

If you do any fuelling-/emissions-related fix, it needs to relearn. It should do so gradually or you can do a hard reset (Search and read - worthwhile for the future). It's also worth reading the drive cycle info in the codes PDF. Not essential to follow it fully but on occasion can be very helpful.

 

Thanks I'll look into your suggestions. Just getting used the car so haven't dug in deep on much of that yet. The 3k rev limit deal fixed itself after driving a few blocks. It revs right to redline without issue now (when passing, etc, especially in sport mode).

 

Only rev limits in park (poss also N).

 

Congrats, man. That's great! You tackled this with such thoroughness, enthusiasm, and good humor. You're an inspiration...and now source of knowledge...to us all.

And... I'm jealous on two counts: your vehicle....and the beautiful place you live. Enjoy both.

 

Virtually ALL parts on these cars are VIN specific. You definitely need to download and consult the Jaguar Electronic Parts Catalog before shopping for any parts. It is the bible of parts; do not rely on Amazon or eBay to determine if a part is correct for your car.

Congrats on troubleshooting your cat. When it's running perfectly, you'll look back and realize it was time well spent.

 

Dodged another bullet. Following day after putting it all back together and running great, it started to misfire on cylinder #5. I was gutted thinking I'd torqued something wrong or had some tiny little air leak somewhere and would have to take it all apart again. Luckily, #5 is on the "easy" side of the engine without the manifold covering it.

I replaced the new coil with a known good I kept as a spare before the coil change. Still misfiring. Damn. Probably is going to be a vacuum leak. So Just to be thorough I swapped the coil and plug from the misfiring #5 cylinder forward to a known good cylinder. And the problem followed the plug/coil! Awesome. Turns out, damned failed new spark plug.

Swapped the plug for a new one and perfect running car. Amazing. I've had DOA coils before, but I've been working on vehicles (mostly motorcycles) for twenty-five years and this is the second just plain bad plug from the factory I've come across.

These were Denso iridiums from Amazon so maybe the porcelain got cracked in shipping? Wierd thing is that it worked fine for about a day and a half then failed.

Anyway, happy to have the cat purring again. Off to give it a new set of O2 sensors then off to Hawaii "safety inspection" now that the codes are cleared.

Thanks for all the help everyone.

I've posted up a new post on how to replace a compass mirror for us 99 -> 2002.5 guys since its specific for our model.

I'm thinking of just writing up a big sticky for this year set. I find as a professional engineer that when I take the time to write up something in detail, it's me that is rewarded with the dividends a year or two later when I need the knowledge. Planting a tree for the next generation etc.

 

On a 3.0 (whether 2001 or whenever) I thought they were NOT iridium plugs (but they are on the STR & NA 4.2).

Though I expect iridiums work OK if you can figure an equivalent to the OE plugs.

 

These are OE equivalent iridiums. Seem to be working fine so I'll call it good. Actually just got back from test drive with all cylinders firing and all new 02 sensors. I had one 02 sensor dead previously. I'm gobsmacked with how much power and acceleration that car has with just the v6. I guess it changed the fuel trim now that it can see all the senors.

I suspect the most expensive part of owning this car will be the wife's speeding tickets going forward.

 

It'll be relearning (from an odd place if you didn't disconnect the battery after the fixes).

Get an STR and see how it compares...

 

Just one hint. With all the work you did and clearing codes you have reset all the readiness monitors. These will be checked when you get it tagged and they must be ready. Some states will allow one to not be ready and I don't know about Hawaii.

These get reset by driving around so at least run the codes and wait for P1000 to change to P1111. Then they are set and you are good to go.
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