Another window regulator failure
#1
Another window regulator failure
Hi all, I haven't posted in a while but my 2000 3L SE is still going strong with 98k miles on it. It was very hot here today. I took my dog to the vet.
After the appointment, I did the trick with opening all the windows by holding down the unlock button on my remote. When I began driving off and raising the windows to run the AC I found that the L side passenger window would not raise and made the ominous regulator failure sound.
This will be the 6th or 7 window regular failure I've had on the car. It's one of the few negatives with the S-type. Fortunately with all this experience, I can repair it very quickly and at relatively low cost.
I was wondering if this a lot of failures compared to others.
ALso I was wondering if this was another issue that was resolved in the later generations of the S-type.
all the best VMV
After the appointment, I did the trick with opening all the windows by holding down the unlock button on my remote. When I began driving off and raising the windows to run the AC I found that the L side passenger window would not raise and made the ominous regulator failure sound.
This will be the 6th or 7 window regular failure I've had on the car. It's one of the few negatives with the S-type. Fortunately with all this experience, I can repair it very quickly and at relatively low cost.
I was wondering if this a lot of failures compared to others.
ALso I was wondering if this was another issue that was resolved in the later generations of the S-type.
all the best VMV
#2
Welcome back VMW. To the best of my knowledge, my 03 STR hasn't experienced a failed window regulator. Though you've repaired window regulators, please don't take offence if I ask if perhaps there was a misstep in installation. Is this the first or second regulator to fail for this particular window? R U sure the regulator failed, not the protection circuit. It was pretty hot when it failed.
#4
The regulator problem is another mainly a 1st generation (1999-2002) problem. Be sure and use the Lincoln LS part from Amazon. It's about the cheapest and comes with the motor too so easier to change out.
The second gen cars do lose a regulator now and again but much less often.
.
.
.
The second gen cars do lose a regulator now and again but much less often.
.
.
.
Last edited by clubairth1; 08-13-2012 at 10:32 PM.
#5
Hi all, I haven't posted in a while but my 2000 3L SE is still going strong with 98k miles on it. It was very hot here today. I took my dog to the vet. After the appointment, I did the trick with opening all the windows by holding down the unlock button on my remote. When I began driving off and raising the windows to run the AC I found that the L side passenger window would not raise and made the ominous regulator failure sound. This will be the 6th or 7 window regular failure I've had on the car. It's one of the few negatives with the S-type. Fortunately with all this experience, I can repair it very quickly and at relatively low cost.
I was wondering if this a lot of failures compared to others. ALso I was wondering if this was another issue that was resolved in the later generations of the S-type.
all the best VMV
I was wondering if this a lot of failures compared to others. ALso I was wondering if this was another issue that was resolved in the later generations of the S-type.
all the best VMV
I've seen many DIY'ers elongate the wrong hole for one of the rail assemblies or worse yet - squeezing those LS regulators into the original mounting holes leaving tension in the window rails - this could be the cause of the repeated failures.
Just my $0.02
The following 2 users liked this post by abonano:
bfsgross (08-14-2012),
space0matic (08-16-2012)
#6
#7
I replaced all 4 window regulators in my car and the drivers side twice. The Lincoln LS regulators will fit the front windows and I heard of the elongating of the hole but I never did that. It seems to me that the alignment with the window is imperative for longevity of the regulator. I also noticed that the window when closed has an extremely tight fit that may also contribute to the failures. FYI I replaced all windows at around 66k mi and the drivers at around 80k mi and I now have 98k mi on the car and they are working just fine. I will provide a link for window regulator replacement.
Link: JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
I hope this helps.
Link: JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
I hope this helps.
The following 2 users liked this post by Gus:
bfsgross (08-14-2012),
space0matic (08-16-2012)
Trending Topics
#8
Thanks for all the great suggestions! I had almost forgotten what a great forum this is.
I took the door panel off yesterday and removed the regulator. As always in the previous failures the plastic clip that secures the cables had fractured. This is the first failure for the L rear window. Probably because I don't open it very often.
In checking Ebay for inexpensive window regulators I was pleasantly suprised to find a vendor selling just the replacement plastic clips. I ordered one and will receive it in a few days. Definitely much cheaper that replacing the whole regulator.
I took the door panel off yesterday and removed the regulator. As always in the previous failures the plastic clip that secures the cables had fractured. This is the first failure for the L rear window. Probably because I don't open it very often.
In checking Ebay for inexpensive window regulators I was pleasantly suprised to find a vendor selling just the replacement plastic clips. I ordered one and will receive it in a few days. Definitely much cheaper that replacing the whole regulator.
The following 2 users liked this post by VMV:
Norri (08-15-2012),
space0matic (08-16-2012)
#10
replacement regulator clip
i received the replacement plastic clip a few days a go and installed it on my window regulator yesterday.
A few problems arose: It was difficult to get the cable ends into the new clip and take up the slack. I ended up having to force and lever the cable back onto its reel , then lever it back into place on the lower guide.
Not a particularly easy job. I was concerned about the clip snapping onto the metal channel of the regulator without breaking but it was fairly easy after I inserted the longer guide into the metal channel, then sqeezed the channel lip inward and pressed the other plastic guide down into place.
After all this I found that the vendor sent me was the wrong clip ( R side rear instead of L side rear ) as the hole in the clip did not line up with the slot in the channel where one would re-install the plactic pin that secure the window.
I jury-rigged it so that I could use it for the short term but will contact the vendor about this problem.
While it is cheaper than replacing the whole regulator, it was much harder work to do so.
Also it raises doubts about the vendor if they can't send the correct part.
A few problems arose: It was difficult to get the cable ends into the new clip and take up the slack. I ended up having to force and lever the cable back onto its reel , then lever it back into place on the lower guide.
Not a particularly easy job. I was concerned about the clip snapping onto the metal channel of the regulator without breaking but it was fairly easy after I inserted the longer guide into the metal channel, then sqeezed the channel lip inward and pressed the other plastic guide down into place.
After all this I found that the vendor sent me was the wrong clip ( R side rear instead of L side rear ) as the hole in the clip did not line up with the slot in the channel where one would re-install the plactic pin that secure the window.
I jury-rigged it so that I could use it for the short term but will contact the vendor about this problem.
While it is cheaper than replacing the whole regulator, it was much harder work to do so.
Also it raises doubts about the vendor if they can't send the correct part.
The following users liked this post:
Norri (08-20-2012)
#13
I just did my second regulator replacement on my 2000 with 93k--first one was the passenger front, this one was the driver's front.
In both cases it was the motor.
As far as the how the pins align to the door frame holes, the first time we lined up and inserted the three posts to the top holes in the foor frame, and had a heck of a time aligning the bottom ones. We really had to do some wrenching to get it to fit.
This time around I lined up the bottom holes first, screwed in the one bolt (in the middle near the motor--the replacement regulator has a screwhole here instead of post), then popped the three top ones in easy as pie--no wrenching need. It's a snug fit, but then I'd imagine the door probably changes shape fractions of an inch after 12+years.
In both cases it was the motor.
As far as the how the pins align to the door frame holes, the first time we lined up and inserted the three posts to the top holes in the foor frame, and had a heck of a time aligning the bottom ones. We really had to do some wrenching to get it to fit.
This time around I lined up the bottom holes first, screwed in the one bolt (in the middle near the motor--the replacement regulator has a screwhole here instead of post), then popped the three top ones in easy as pie--no wrenching need. It's a snug fit, but then I'd imagine the door probably changes shape fractions of an inch after 12+years.
#14
I just did my second regulator replacement on my 2000 with 93k--first one was the passenger front, this one was the driver's front.
In both cases it was the motor.
As far as the how the pins align to the door frame holes, the first time we lined up and inserted the three posts to the top holes in the foor frame, and had a heck of a time aligning the bottom ones. We really had to do some wrenching to get it to fit.
This time around I lined up the bottom holes first, screwed in the one bolt (in the middle near the motor--the replacement regulator has a screwhole here instead of post), then popped the three top ones in easy as pie--no wrenching need. It's a snug fit, but then I'd imagine the door probably changes shape fractions of an inch after 12+years.
In both cases it was the motor.
As far as the how the pins align to the door frame holes, the first time we lined up and inserted the three posts to the top holes in the foor frame, and had a heck of a time aligning the bottom ones. We really had to do some wrenching to get it to fit.
This time around I lined up the bottom holes first, screwed in the one bolt (in the middle near the motor--the replacement regulator has a screwhole here instead of post), then popped the three top ones in easy as pie--no wrenching need. It's a snug fit, but then I'd imagine the door probably changes shape fractions of an inch after 12+years.
#16
When installing the 2 rear window regulators the only problem I had was the removal and install of the plastic pin used to attach the window to the regulator. Both regulators bolted up as easily as the removal. As a side note I got them both online using Amazon. I am wondering if I missed something.
#17
#18
#20
Well I received the clip but it was the wrong one. Must had been the same packaging guy that sent member VMV his clip. They sent the correct one in a timely manor so I thought it was correct. Install it to rail and assy in the car but when I tried to get it to align into the inspection window of the rail I could not see the hole in the clip or the hole in the window. So I could not install the barrel nut to the window. I spent too much time on it so I will order a complete window regulator assy. Attached is a pdf of some pitfalls of replacing the plastic clip.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Jaguar Forums Editor
Jaguar Press release
0
09-28-2015 06:18 PM
bydand
XF and XFR ( X250 )
8
09-28-2015 10:47 AM
bydand
XF and XFR ( X250 )
1
09-27-2015 01:00 PM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)