Anyone install the Eurotoys upper and lower pulley set yet?
#21
Avo's, is there plenty of headroom on the fuel system to take it up to approx 500 rwhp? I'll up the boost, but I don't really want to do much more than that on this car. It just gets too expensive. The alky injection will add a little fuel, maybe to the tune of 0.25 on the afr.
It's my understanding that these cars run pretty rich on the top end. Are there any other ways to lean the car out on the top end other than a tune? I read about the member using the split second signal massager to try to increase the afr, but apparently the 02's countered that and so the device didn't work.
Apparently the porting increases efficiency, especially at the higher boost levels, so maybe this will get me by. I'm still waiting for a call back with info.
It's my understanding that these cars run pretty rich on the top end. Are there any other ways to lean the car out on the top end other than a tune? I read about the member using the split second signal massager to try to increase the afr, but apparently the 02's countered that and so the device didn't work.
Apparently the porting increases efficiency, especially at the higher boost levels, so maybe this will get me by. I'm still waiting for a call back with info.
Last edited by qwiketz; 05-24-2010 at 02:28 PM.
#23
@qwiketz
The timing is basically already pretty advanced, when all conditions are right at top end speed it would be about 23 degrees advance. It is that the ECU is measuring the temps after the intercoolers, and then adjusts its timing to that, so with higher blower speed the ecu will retard the ignition due to the extra heat it is measuring (and the more heat soak the bigger the effect), and that is one point where you lose power. You can easily check this with a standard OBDII reader ignition timing is shown as a standard sensor to follow. Just do a couple of full power runs, and you will see how the ECU could even drop to 16 degrees or so. So imho, buy just cooling the charge better with for example the alky systems, the ECU will advance back up upper 23 degrees region pending the cooling capabilities to get some power back that you have lost.
Pending the mods and pressure (heat) it might even be better to retard the tuning, but that is something that should be learned from a good dyno test (believe me not easy with these water to air intercooled engine systems, takes a lot of time to get constantly the same condition when testing…).
The timing is basically already pretty advanced, when all conditions are right at top end speed it would be about 23 degrees advance. It is that the ECU is measuring the temps after the intercoolers, and then adjusts its timing to that, so with higher blower speed the ecu will retard the ignition due to the extra heat it is measuring (and the more heat soak the bigger the effect), and that is one point where you lose power. You can easily check this with a standard OBDII reader ignition timing is shown as a standard sensor to follow. Just do a couple of full power runs, and you will see how the ECU could even drop to 16 degrees or so. So imho, buy just cooling the charge better with for example the alky systems, the ECU will advance back up upper 23 degrees region pending the cooling capabilities to get some power back that you have lost.
Pending the mods and pressure (heat) it might even be better to retard the tuning, but that is something that should be learned from a good dyno test (believe me not easy with these water to air intercooled engine systems, takes a lot of time to get constantly the same condition when testing…).
#24
@qwiketz
There is plenty of fuel left at 420 rwhp, that is why I know we can get the mixture much leaner then it is now and get more power. The TS is delivering much cooler air already than a roots blower, so that is why one can go leaner at higher boost than stock, and why I expect 20 to maybe 30 extra rwhp.
As I am already struggling (inlet remains the main restriction for the moment to get more power out) to get 420 rwhp with a Twin-screw on the STR, I doubt you can get close with an eaton. Even with alky but admit I have no experience with that to be honest. The eaton consumes so much more power when upping the boost that a lot of energy gets wasted, i.e. you will already need more fuel and air to come close, and cooling down the charge will not avoid the power consumption part. So imho you may need to re-think about the 500rwhp target, even if the fuel delivery could be up to it.
It would help if other enthousiasts who have done a Eaton tune/port to have them post some numbers, as then at least you know better what you could expect.
@stypernut
Not sure, would expect something else, especially since you mention it is ok when cold. You can check if there is flow by squezing the tubes of the intercooler, at least then you will know there is flow. You also might want to check for codes, do you have a OBDII reader then can also read sensors?
@Enthusiast
Have not seen their design, but it is important not to buy one that is to thick (some tuners do this), this will actually hinder airflow over the radiator whereas that is what you need. In short, you might be better of with a extra resorvoir, as that gives you more buffer time before it gets hot. This is also why some bigger radiators help, as they have bigger side tanks compared to stock.
There is plenty of fuel left at 420 rwhp, that is why I know we can get the mixture much leaner then it is now and get more power. The TS is delivering much cooler air already than a roots blower, so that is why one can go leaner at higher boost than stock, and why I expect 20 to maybe 30 extra rwhp.
As I am already struggling (inlet remains the main restriction for the moment to get more power out) to get 420 rwhp with a Twin-screw on the STR, I doubt you can get close with an eaton. Even with alky but admit I have no experience with that to be honest. The eaton consumes so much more power when upping the boost that a lot of energy gets wasted, i.e. you will already need more fuel and air to come close, and cooling down the charge will not avoid the power consumption part. So imho you may need to re-think about the 500rwhp target, even if the fuel delivery could be up to it.
It would help if other enthousiasts who have done a Eaton tune/port to have them post some numbers, as then at least you know better what you could expect.
@stypernut
Not sure, would expect something else, especially since you mention it is ok when cold. You can check if there is flow by squezing the tubes of the intercooler, at least then you will know there is flow. You also might want to check for codes, do you have a OBDII reader then can also read sensors?
@Enthusiast
Have not seen their design, but it is important not to buy one that is to thick (some tuners do this), this will actually hinder airflow over the radiator whereas that is what you need. In short, you might be better of with a extra resorvoir, as that gives you more buffer time before it gets hot. This is also why some bigger radiators help, as they have bigger side tanks compared to stock.
#26
Avo's, I was actually referring to your setup with the 500 rwhp question. I figure if you have plenty of fuel at 500 rwhp(about 600 bhp), then I'll definately have plenty of headroom for my "little" eaton project.
I did get an email from Bob this morning. He said that after the porting and modification, I should be close to 400 hp based on stock being about 330.
I'd love to see what other people's ported eatons are putting out. He's done several of these but I haven't seen any results on the forums.
I did get an email from Bob this morning. He said that after the porting and modification, I should be close to 400 hp based on stock being about 330.
I'd love to see what other people's ported eatons are putting out. He's done several of these but I haven't seen any results on the forums.
#27
Not sure what is left, am still pioneering at this level, will push the limit when I have the Stage II ready, and then I will know. The stage II is designed to increase the airflow again, and lower the power consumption of the supercharger, which leaves more to the rear wheels where you need it. I know that a tuner playing with the Eatons mentioned he was running into fuel issues, but that is understandable as you need a lot of extra air and fuel just to drive the eaton faster.
“I'd love to see what other people's ported eatons are putting out. He's done several of these but I haven't seen any results on the forums.”
I do not wonder anymore why we do not see any dyno results, it is highly underestimated what the extra heat and power consumption of the eaton brings with it when you cross its maximum efficiency level (also taking the intake designs into consideration, you just can’t compare that with other cars like the mustang kits).
So bottom line, the 330 rwhp is about right for a 4.2 (a non vvt, would actually say 330-340) in stock trim with a clean filter, but 70 rwhp more seems way off imho, you would need much more than just the faster spinning eaton (ported or not).
I think it is innovative what Bob is doing with an internal extra gearing (no kidding), though am wondering if the noise is not to load, as adding gears will make the unit louder (so louder than just spinning the Eaton faster and porting which also adds to noise levels).
Imo the best possible chance you have to gain more power with the eaton is to also combine it with better cooling like the alky kits, eventhough I have not seen any dynos yet with these combos, I know that the cooling will help in reducing the power loss as it reduces the power needed to drive the eaton and the ECU will move less into protection mode. A cooler charge means less PSI after the SC, and a major power consumption of the supercharger is caused by the pressure after the supercharger + intake vacuum (and here comes our crappy intake into the play unfortunately).
Keep us posted I would say, and start with a good base dyno run (with new preferably K&N panel filter, as you need a better filer once upping the power), it is essential that you already know your stock setup is performing properly before tinkering with it.
“I'd love to see what other people's ported eatons are putting out. He's done several of these but I haven't seen any results on the forums.”
I do not wonder anymore why we do not see any dyno results, it is highly underestimated what the extra heat and power consumption of the eaton brings with it when you cross its maximum efficiency level (also taking the intake designs into consideration, you just can’t compare that with other cars like the mustang kits).
So bottom line, the 330 rwhp is about right for a 4.2 (a non vvt, would actually say 330-340) in stock trim with a clean filter, but 70 rwhp more seems way off imho, you would need much more than just the faster spinning eaton (ported or not).
I think it is innovative what Bob is doing with an internal extra gearing (no kidding), though am wondering if the noise is not to load, as adding gears will make the unit louder (so louder than just spinning the Eaton faster and porting which also adds to noise levels).
Imo the best possible chance you have to gain more power with the eaton is to also combine it with better cooling like the alky kits, eventhough I have not seen any dynos yet with these combos, I know that the cooling will help in reducing the power loss as it reduces the power needed to drive the eaton and the ECU will move less into protection mode. A cooler charge means less PSI after the SC, and a major power consumption of the supercharger is caused by the pressure after the supercharger + intake vacuum (and here comes our crappy intake into the play unfortunately).
Keep us posted I would say, and start with a good base dyno run (with new preferably K&N panel filter, as you need a better filer once upping the power), it is essential that you already know your stock setup is performing properly before tinkering with it.
#28
I'll definately do before and after dyno's. The cooling and octane effects of the alky injection are awesome. I have extensive experience with alky injection kits (I've even made my own) and I'm definately a believer after seeing what we're able to do on 91 octane gas.
Supposedly the porting increases the eaton's efficiency based on other (mustang guys) before and after dynos. He does also change the step up ratio which is similar to pullying it down a notch which will help a little by adding boost (assuming it doesn't increase the heat that much). Finally, the alky injection system should make the car more consistent by reducing the post blower temps. I'm curious to see how everything works out... We'll see once the car is on the dyno.
Supposedly the porting increases the eaton's efficiency based on other (mustang guys) before and after dynos. He does also change the step up ratio which is similar to pullying it down a notch which will help a little by adding boost (assuming it doesn't increase the heat that much). Finally, the alky injection system should make the car more consistent by reducing the post blower temps. I'm curious to see how everything works out... We'll see once the car is on the dyno.
#29
#32
I'll probably counter the increased heat with alcohol/water injection. It works great for my situation because I'm here in CA with 91 octane gas. With a tune, it'll allow more timing to be added as well. I'm also going to look into getting a tune done as well but that my blow my budget for now.
There's a couple of options for where I want to get. I could go with the pullies (upper and lower) from Eurotoys. Another route is get the factory blower ported and have them swap to a smaller upper pulley when the shop has the blower. I'm not sure which route I'll go yet; I'll have to price them out.
By the way, I've found that the alcohol injection is worth about 50 hp on a 450 hp supercharged motor through adding timing and the cooling effects. I've also found that it allows the car to run a little more consistent in various outside temps. I haven't looked into where/how to setup this type of car on it, so that's something I stilll have to research.
I definately plan on getting a before and after dyno. I was at the dyno yesterday for a dyno day watching a bunch of Toyota Supras on there. The highest dyno of the day was only 486. I wanted to strap my corvette on there and spank them but I didn't want to have to wait (they were giving 2 free runs yesterday for a grand opening party). I'll definately be back there with the S type R to baseline and dyno after mods.
There's a couple of options for where I want to get. I could go with the pullies (upper and lower) from Eurotoys. Another route is get the factory blower ported and have them swap to a smaller upper pulley when the shop has the blower. I'm not sure which route I'll go yet; I'll have to price them out.
By the way, I've found that the alcohol injection is worth about 50 hp on a 450 hp supercharged motor through adding timing and the cooling effects. I've also found that it allows the car to run a little more consistent in various outside temps. I haven't looked into where/how to setup this type of car on it, so that's something I stilll have to research.
I definately plan on getting a before and after dyno. I was at the dyno yesterday for a dyno day watching a bunch of Toyota Supras on there. The highest dyno of the day was only 486. I wanted to strap my corvette on there and spank them but I didn't want to have to wait (they were giving 2 free runs yesterday for a grand opening party). I'll definately be back there with the S type R to baseline and dyno after mods.
I installed DewilsOwn alky initially with one 5gph nozzle located ~6 inch prior TB with progressive MAF controller. I could not feel any difference with pure water injection. Then I installed the second nozzle of 4gph and started to use 50/50 water/methanol mixture. Still I see the timing goes down from 23 to 16 degrees so I do not feel once again the difference.
Jaguar XJR - no difference with water injection
May I ask you for advice on your alky setup? Where are you nozzle(s) located? What are the nozzles sizes?
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