Gosh this all sounds vaguely familiar except that my failed battery was a brand new Bosch from Pep Boys ... LOL

 

I replaced the battery (which Auto Zone had tested and found faulty) and it looked like all was well. Three days later, the same problem occurred: key turns without results and after a wait of 2 - 45 minutes, the engine turns and all is fine. I finally took it to my local mechanic and the problem did not occur for him during the four days it was at his garage (they checked it every couple of hours). However, he did get the following computer codes (I believe they are called IP codes):
B1601 - Incorrect key code from transponder.
B1352 - Key in circuit faulty.

I have a feeling it is something in my key fob that has become unprogrammed although the intermittent nature of the problem doesn't sound too logical. Before I buy a new key, anyone have any ideas?
Thanks,
Andy

 

Those are weird and strange codes so you are in a pretty rare area?

It does sound like it's an anti-theft problem. Please post back if you find out what it is.
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Could it be the actual ignition lock / its associated circuitry? We get reports which turn out to be that from time to time. Search may get you previous threads.

If it's a PATS problem you should see a code being flashed by the PATS light if you leave the ignition on when the car refuses to start. Count the pattern of flashes (and keep watching to be sure you got it right)...

 

See previous threads about starting problem on S-Series sedan. Replaced battery in October and I thought problem was solved. Two days later, same problem occurred. About every 5-10 attempts to start the car, I get some clicking but no engine turn. Duration of "non-starting" period is anywhere from 10 seconds to over an hour. Doesn't seem to be temperature related as it has occurred during the winter and now summer. My local mechanic checked the computer readout and it did not reveal a fault code. Anyone ever come across a seemingly random problem like this before?

 

Do you have two keys? Do both of them do the same thing?

Your errors seem to point to this. Might even get them reprogrammed at the dealer to see if anything is acting strange?
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The clicking is likely a solenoid or relay trying to make a circuit for the hi load to the starter motor. Before days of electronics we would jump the battery straight to the power in side of the starter. If the battery was good the starter worked. Some cars run a protect circuit like volvos so if less than 10 volts the starter relay solenoid system wont activate, possibly because the electronics for FI would not work. Last problem I had like your was a new Nissan Narvara that clearly had a good battery but some sensor simply said NO. A reset fixed that. The problem before with a vw was a new battery but the connection of the battery terminal to the cable was mechanical not electrical. It looked good but the ohmmeter said otherwise. Check it given you say tapping the terminal helped. It also meant the Battery didn't charge much. Paul

 

Thanks, grandhaze. Very interesting ideas. I will try cleaning and tightening the terminals and check the voltage. Two questions: 1. When I changed the battery in October, I assumed that probably reset the computer since I had to make the computer re-memorize the window and alarm settings. Would that be adequate to reset the voltage activation threshold?
2. Why would the voltage increase to the starting threshold after I've been turning the key for up to an hour? It seems like the voltage would decrease over that time period.
Thanks,
Andy

 

It may be nothing more exciting than a bad earth. It could just be 'welding' itself after repeated start attempts.
Check both the battery and engine earthing strap.
Please also put you car details in your signature (user CP Top left>edit signature)

 

+1 on probably a poor connection somewhere (even a cracked battery post).

 

Your terminals are probably ok in terms of fit to battery posts. The fault I had was the fit of the actual wire of the main cable into the battery terminal. It looked good but when I substituted another new cable the car started. I then physically pulled the old cable out of the terminal end and it clearly had about 1/4 connection at best and was that lovely powdery green colour. The hours I spent recharging etc was soon forgotten once I found the problem.
I dont know how the system resets but sure the forum does.
The resistance becomes lower and the starter works. Why does resistance change? Temp and movement and that cause of all intermittent faults. Gremlins. The Bat always has the same voltage. I agree the hardest fault to find is a base poor earth or power supply. My last car a jeep they quoted me $2800 for solenoid pack in the tranny and I found out, before they did the work that the fault was a relay with a dirty contact. I found this out only when the jeep had to be jump started and suddenly the auto worked perfectly until the next start. So I looked for a joiner or a relay. If your starter is ok then something on the way there or way back to the battery is either blocking the current flow or overriding the switch on decision the car is trying to make. I don't recommend jumping to the starter because of the electronics but an auto elec could read the current when under load. Paul

 

Yes, the +ve terminal crimp is a known baddie.