Battery problem
#1
03-02-2009, 09:20 PM
Battery problem
I have been on this site looking for hours. This is probably the area i need to talk about.(And yes probobly your battery since when they loose reserve power, if power gets to a certain level while sitting the car wakes up electracally and runs the battery down the rest of the way, everytime a battery is run down it looses approx 50% of reserve power). I have a 2000 S type 4.0 have had it since 2002. @ years ago original battery started to crap out. Called Jaq guy he said get Advanced auto Titanium replacement. After one week the new battery was dead in the morning. Charged it and dead next morning so on and so on... Took to Jaq guy,had car for 2 weeks. Said he "reset the relays" and $150.00 later it worked fine for over a week. Then all of a sudden dead again. now dies in less than 6 hours. He said the relays are satying on ( not going into sleep mode). I just bought another new battery and car worked fine for over a week and once again dead in the morning.
Who can help me with this one????????
Who can help me with this one????????
#2
03-03-2009, 01:11 PM
#3
03-03-2009, 06:27 PM
meter test
Thank you for your comment. I think so too. last night I put a meter in line and saw a 4 amp draw. I came back 30 minutes later and it was down to 1.5 amps. I then pulled each fuse one by one to see if i had a specific draw and no change from any fuses except when I pulled the # 20 fuse interior, GEM. Then it went to .7amps, that is all i know to do. Any other tests I can do????
#4
03-04-2009, 01:23 PM
#5
03-04-2009, 07:36 PM
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Have had REMs fail and have had front gem stay on keep communications up with gem and they both keep the 4 relays on. There's about thirty different things it can be. Three most found are the gem failing in the trunk . 2 ignition barrel not fully turning off which keeps half the car awake . 3 fem module missing it's keep alive power due to front harness having corrosion . Also have seen door modules stay on . Also near battery there is a white connector this corrodes and keeps the ignitin barrel . Hope this helps
#6
03-05-2009, 08:17 AM
Thanks again for the help. I had taped the trunk switch closed so the light stayed off and left door open so lights would turn off before testing. Can you provide me with the location of these modules so i can unhook it and test again?
I did see that single wire in the trunk near battery and it does not seem to have any corrosion. Trunk is like new, no moisture. Also you said "4" relays and it seems that 2 of the relays in the trunk are staying warm. Can you provide me the relay numbers so I can test the correct ones?
I did see that single wire in the trunk near battery and it does not seem to have any corrosion. Trunk is like new, no moisture. Also you said "4" relays and it seems that 2 of the relays in the trunk are staying warm. Can you provide me the relay numbers so I can test the correct ones?
#7
03-13-2009, 02:59 PM
(((
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#8
03-22-2009, 05:28 PM
#9
03-23-2009, 08:17 AM
#10
04-15-2009, 07:04 PM
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Check the instrument cluster
2000 S-Type.
Your details took me back about a year.
My car did the exact same thing and it took 2 months for the jag shop to isolate the problem. They initially told me it was interior lights I was leaving on and so forth. All the same nonsense you're going through.
I feel your pain on this. That issue made me late to work several times and cost me alot in just towing fee's. After it was supposedly fixed after the third visit to the shop it died before I could even drive it off the lot. lol.
It's the instrument cluster. At least it was for me. Jag said it would take 9 to 14 weeks to get a replacement part and that it would cost 1200.
I went to a salvage yard and got one with a 6 month warranty for 200 and it's worked great ever since.
Your details took me back about a year.
My car did the exact same thing and it took 2 months for the jag shop to isolate the problem. They initially told me it was interior lights I was leaving on and so forth. All the same nonsense you're going through.
I feel your pain on this. That issue made me late to work several times and cost me alot in just towing fee's. After it was supposedly fixed after the third visit to the shop it died before I could even drive it off the lot. lol.
It's the instrument cluster. At least it was for me. Jag said it would take 9 to 14 weeks to get a replacement part and that it would cost 1200.
I went to a salvage yard and got one with a 6 month warranty for 200 and it's worked great ever since.
Last edited by T-Lew; 04-15-2009 at 07:06 PM.
#11
04-15-2009, 08:11 PM
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Location: Damon /Houston, Texas
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and the spec is less than 30 milleamps. and if I remeber right its within 45 minutes. But there is a whole diag proceedure that has times and specs on stages of volatge drops and times. just pull fuses till you get the one pulled that lets the car go to sleep....And 1 that really threw me about 4 years ago was an ignition switch...But the good news is at least your car is consistent, and youre not chasing a intermittent fault anylonger
#12
04-16-2009, 08:22 AM
Thanks for the input,
The car is back at the dealer for 5 weeks at this point. he has swapped out the body control mods and its still dying. i have heard of the keyswitch but have not swapped it. Is is common for the radio to come on when you hook the battery back up? the radio is off and only shows the clock and the key is not in the ignition but the am radio comes on when i hook the battery cables back up.
The car is back at the dealer for 5 weeks at this point. he has swapped out the body control mods and its still dying. i have heard of the keyswitch but have not swapped it. Is is common for the radio to come on when you hook the battery back up? the radio is off and only shows the clock and the key is not in the ignition but the am radio comes on when i hook the battery cables back up.
#13
04-16-2009, 09:16 AM
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#14
04-16-2009, 07:29 PM
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battery blues
When I was going through this same issue my radio turned on when i reconnected the battery each time it was replaced with a new one or when I was still able to recharge the dead one. My local dealer told me this was normal.
Usually the dead one would be drained so bad that it would kill a cell or two and the battery would just need to be replaced.
Usually the dead one would be drained so bad that it would kill a cell or two and the battery would just need to be replaced.
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