I've had this car for about 3 years.
This car has given me more problems than a pontiac!!
Every time it gets really cold, my car with not start. It will give me tons of errors.. make a weird clicking sound.. beeping sound.. and the horn goes off. I was told to re-set the computer by disconnecting the battery for 15 min, but that didn't work.
Not to mention, i get random warning lights about my break. It lights up whenever i turn the car off.
Also within the past week, my engine coolant light warning has been coming on, yet i just got my cars oil changed and they said they checked EVERTHING and it was fine.

I'm also smelling some kind of burning smell coming out of the vents sometimes and I'm not sure what it is.
This car is a lease, but i got a notice stating it was out of warranty.. funny i get that and then i start having these issues.

Anyone having any of these problems????
It's pretty bad to pay so much for a car that isn't going to be a reilable source of trasportation... may as well go back to a pontiac. At least it never left me stranded!

 

i'm not trying to rag on Jaguar by any means...
I've done a lot of searching on the internet and this is a very very very common problem... so if anyone has a solution as to what i can do to fix my car.. or re-set the computer, i'll be a happy camper. I live in B.F.E and no where near a dealership.. so towing will be a big expense for every time this happens.

Thanks!

 

Exact errors i'm getting are:
engine system fault, park brake fault & dsc not avilable lights were flashing which caused the car to completly loose power. Horn keeps honking.

 

The no start cold sounds a lot like a bad battery. A battery that falls below the voltage threshold for the ECM and therefore security module will cause the horn to go off. The beeping is most likely from an electronic park brake fault caused by the low voltage condition. The clicking sound could be the starter relay trying to energize with too low a voltage.

It is normal operation for this car to light the red brake light when you first shut it off and remove the key. It is letting you know that the electronic park brake is engaged. The light will go out in a few minutes at most. Now if you are getting a message in the message center that says "park brake fault" that is a problem that will have to be addressed by the dealer.

Not to be a wiseguy, I am assuming that since you live in B.F.E. and the nearest Jaguar dealer is a long way off you had your oil changed at a jiffy,speedy,quick lube type place local to you. If that is the case I would question the ability of the 17 year old kid that was doing the work to check any fluids in your car other than the oil and I would double check even that if I were you.

Unfortunately smells are difficult to diagnosis over the internet and considering you live in B.F.E and I live in R.B.C.(rust belt central) we would have to meet somewhere in between to get it looked at. I hope this helps and I would definetly get the battery checked by at least a competent local repair facility if the dealer is not an option. They can probably check and add coolant to your car as well while you are there.

 

Thank you very much! I hope that's all that it is. That would be a big relief to me and my worries.. since I'm out of warranty and still in a lease.

 

That would not be the first mulitiple lights, sounds, error messages, and no starts that would be solved by replacing a depleted battery.

Coolant is on a totally different train of thought as Real_Tech mentioned above, you've likely been slowly loosing some coolant for some time. It may not be a critical loss right now, and you can combat it by toppling off the 50/50 water/antifreeze mixture every month or so. however, the leak exists, and if you want to search for orange crud (dried antifreeze) check out around and under the expansion tank (overflow tank) first, then check the thermostat housing. My water pump also failed at 70k miles, so that could also be a culprit.

how many miles on your 2005?

 

burning smell from the vents..hmmmm. V6 dripping oil from IMT orings onto exhaust
V8 dripping oil from cam covers onto exhaust, both of which draw the fumes into the car with the ac,heater on and recirc turned off so its drawing outside air from the passenger side base of the windshield....
sounds to me like all minor problems you just need someone good to look at and fix your car

 

MissChelle, I agree with the above techs.
1) Battery needs replaced
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...t=battery+life
2) IMT O-Rings are bad (have a look at this for repair procedure)
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=32135
3) Coolant expansion tanks are a known fault for the nipples to crack and cause leaking (location under the hood where one would add coolant)
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...lant+tank+leak

Our previous vehicle we purchased new was a 1997 Pontiac GTP, we sold it with 154,000 miles on it, besides tires (2 sets), brakes (2 sets) and a power steering pump that car was the most reliable vehicle we had ever owned! BTW we sold it last March to buy our S!

One more thing as Brutal mentioned the engine size would be more helpful to diagnose.

 

Everything they said! They give out answers FAST!

 

MissChelle, Please post links to some of the posts about this very very very common problem. Maybe you could post the likely solution so people aren't left in ignorance.

 

Since it is a leased vehicle I thought all maintence and problems the dealership covered.......or is the dealer just too far away for you to get to one?

 

Just my 2 cents... The low coolant could also be a bad DCCV. Mine failed without the typical heat issues and without a "big" leak.....

Also, Riski, Leases are just another form of financing. Regular warranty still applies. All a lease really is in a nutshell is financed depreciation... I'm not knocking them, I've leased three vehicles.....One, my 04 Accord that I actually got more in trade than the residual value if I bought it...and that was with 0 down....So, they can be good. Sounds like the OP got a long term lease, or is leasing used, but again, the lease would have nothing to do with a service contract or the warranty.

 

Ahhhh Guess it is different as my friend who leases a SLR does not even have to pay for brake pads on his lease, and my moms C63 was the same way......I would of thought all dealerships covered maintence and extended warrenty work due to them getting back the vehicle to sell again....thus being certified.....

 

Same thing happened to me last month. The dealership replaced the "heater control valve", which I'm assuming is the same as the DCCV.

 

Have any of the mentioned vehicles gone more than 50k? I know that BMW offers free service during the initial warranty period, so does Jaguar. The free service is usually linked to the new car purchase warranty and does have an expiration... Jaguar's for example is 4 years or 50k, whatever comes first.

 

Thanks guys! I replaced the battery and the car is working fine. Just have to get that coolant problem taken care of and i'm good.

love this forum!

 

Good to hear your issues are mostly solved.....When the battery gets low the car gets retarded due to it having 2,384 computers to tell it to drive!

 

All these symptoms sound very much like a dud or becoming dead battery. That rattling starter solenoid is a real giveaway, plus lots of random errorcodes. I have been in electronics all my working life, let me appraise you of what happens...
The devices in cars are really programmed logic controllers, (engine management, ABS etc.) and it's very easy for these to control mechanical devices since they are extremely slow in electronic terms. In my experience with these, the power supplies to the PLC are more often than not the cause of malfunctions which make the PLC seem to be faulty. It's very common for PLCs to require a +12volt, +5volt, and -12volt supplies. When you only have a +12volt battery supply to play with, the other two must be made out of the +12volt. The -12volt is made by an inverter, but the +5volt is made by a regulator from the +12volt battery. This +5volt is VERY critical for the ttl logic chips, if it drops to 4.8volts or less, timing failures can happen, giving all sorts of random errors.
The upshot is that during the cranking of the engine, the 12volt battery drops to about 9volt for a good one, or maybe as low as 6volt for a bad, worn out one. That 5volt regulator needs at least 7volt or so to work properly, hence all the random errorcodes. Stir into the mix a little sulphation of the battery terminals from neglect, reducing the cranking voltage still further, and it will rattle the starter solenoid as well.
Answer? Buy a good quality battery. Use a small 12v. battery with a pair of croc. clip leads (or alligator-clip leads) clipped across the terminals of the battery in the car before removing the dud one and you won't lose your radio code and any others. Saves a lot of work later! And you will of course observe polarity when doing this...
Oh, DO spend a few dollars on a really GOOD battery, cheap ones aren't worth all the aggravation in a computer controlled car.
Leedsman.

 

Leeds, (or anyone else) have a list of good batteries? Seems like a lot of them are going bad right now. Our local Pep Boyz has a Bosch #49-850B in stock. 850 cca/1000 ca. 36/96 month warranty.
$99.99 plus $10 core charge.
I have no idea if it's good, bad or indifferent.
If a list of good ones (and bad ones to stay away from), it could be made into a sticky for all of us.
Just a thought..

 

OK.. replaced the battery and it started fine, but now i have the same problem.
Same error codes and it wont start =( I'm going to lose it!