I had tagged this question on a previous post. But I was verbally spanked by Bad Mojo
For not sticking to the story line.

I am now focused with a firm grasped on my attention span.

How hard is it for a mechanically challenge person to replace the brake disk pads
On a 2006 S-type. Well not that mechanically challenged ,but definitely just challenged.

And what’s the best pads to use “that do not leave black powder all over my rims”.

Are any special tool’s "or any thing period" needed to perform such task.

And when I change the pads , would it be a good idea to paint the . . . pad holder things.

Just ragging on you Bad Mojo [sm=yeahsmile.gif]

Thanks

 

1. I'd say go for EBC Redstuff ceramics if available for the S. Great stopping power improvements and reduced brake dust too. What there is of it is in the form of a light gray dusting!

2. Dont know, ask Biggie[&:]....lol

3. I'd definitely paint the pad holder thingies at that time, maybe even the hubs too. Check this out from the X forum bro!
https://www.jaguarforums.com/m_25985/tm.htm

Good luck

Jim

 

I'd paint the brackets as well. Looks very nice. I also agree with the Red Stuff pads, or even yellow stuff if you don't drive it too often. It's very easy to change the pads up front, but just slightly more complicated for the rear. You'll need a special cube to twist the rear calipers back in, so go and pick that up at the auto parts store before you start.

 

(This is from memory, so don't blame me if I miss something!)

Front Brakes

Jack up front of car and remove wheel. Turn the wheel all the way to the right when working on the passenger side, and vice-versa on the drivers side. This way you can access the rear of the caliper easily.

On back of caliper, there will be two bolts with a rubber surround and a plastic cap on the end - one on the top of the caliper and one on the bottom. Remove the plastic caps (they just pop out) and unscrew the bolts. I believe that they are a torx bit, but I forget the size.

Pull the pin off the caliper. It is a thin metal thing that is right on the front. Just grab it with a pliers and pull.

Wiggle the caliper off of the rotor. Once off, remove the pads. The one on the front just rests there, and the one on the back has a metal clip that holds it in. Just pull it outward and it will come out easily.

Take a c-clamp and press the cylinder back into the caliper. It will be a little tough, but it will go. If your clamp keeps slipping off the cylinder, try putting the old pad back on and do it that way. I usually do it without the pad on because my clamp isn't big enough to fit with the pad, but I would imagine it would be easier that way if you have one big enough.

Put the new pads on the caliper, remembering to use the backing plates for the pads that they came with. Also, grease the backing plate where it makes contact with the caliper with the grease that was provided with the pads. (It's not regular grease, so make sure it is meant for brake pads)

Inspect the rotor - both the front and the back of it. Make sure you look at the back of it too! The front can look perfect and the back can be torn up sometimes. If they are not perfectly smooth, they need to be replaced or resurfaced. If your pads wore to the point of you hearing a scraping noise from the warning tabs, you need to replace or resurface. If they are nice and smooth, go to the next step. If not, there are two bolts on the back of the metal thing that the caliper bolted to. Take these out, and then remove the mounting bracket. Once the bracket is off, the rotors pull right off. You may have some clips on the wheel studs - those just pull right off. If the rotor seems stuck, hit it with a rubber mallot to break it free. Don't hit it with a regular hammer, lol. Resurface or replace the rotor and bolt the caliper mount back up.

Once the cylinder on the caliper is squeezed back to flush with the caliper and your pads are in place, slip the caliper back on the rotor and into place. Start the bolts that mount the caliper, but don't tighten all the way yet. Now put the metal pin back in. Put one end in the hole, then maneuver the other end with a pliers and fit it in the other hole. Sometimes this can be a pain, but you'll get it. Once in, tighten the bolts the rest of the way. Replace the plastic caps on the rubber surrounds.

Put the wheel back on and torq the lugs to spec.

Repeat on the other side.

If you did all of this without opening up the bleader valve on the caliper, there is no need to bleed the brakes. They should work normally. If the pedal feels soft or spongy though, bleed the brakes. Also, once done with the replacement, check the brake fluid. It is possible that when pressing the cylinder back into the caliper that the fluid gets pushed back into the reservoire and spills out. If it is low, top it off.

**************************************

Rear Brakes

The rear brakes work exactly the same way as the fronts do, except for one difference. When you get to the step of pressing the cylinder back into the caliper, these don't press in - they turn. You can either get the correct tool from the auto store, or you can do what I do and use a needle nose pliers. On the end of the cylinder is a cutout that looks like a cross. Just take the ends of the needle nose pliers and put them on either side of the cross and twist the cylinder. Keep twisting it until it goes back into the caliper and is flush. Then, follow the other instructions and you will have those done too.

Hope that helps! It is really easy - don't let it intimidate you! Most likely, you will only have to do the fronts because the front brakes do about 80% of your braking and wear out much more quickly. Your rear brakes are probably fine.

 

You can screw them back in with a custom tool - a grinding disk spanner. Yes, the two pin wrench that takes the lock disk off grinders. Scorpios are the same, Cosworth rear brakes etc.

 

One other note thay may save you a headache... When the calipers are taken off of the rotor, don't press the brake pedal for any reason until they are reinstalled... The cylinder will pop out and it is a serious pain in the butt to get it back into the boot.

 

Hey Cajun,
Just figure you would get more responses to your question with the subject brake pads rather than "let's post some pics" Plus I was just rippin on you, One Mojo to another. Here is a link to the pads that I use all the around. They are extremly clean and very quiet. I would buy them again without question.
Good luck on your brake job and "very nice ride!!"
http://brakeperformance.com/site/bra...icle_type_id=1

 

Thanks Jim , Biddreams and Cosworth, good ideas.

SBXT thank you for the detailed instructions , I will print them out and use
them.

Hey badmojo , I will check out the link.

Thanks for all your help guys..

 

I was poking around the autoparts store on Sunday and picked up the cube for screwing rear calipers back for $9.99, brake replacement is coming up soon and it seemed reasonable. I must admit I am not big on special tools unless there is no other way around it, but for 10 bucks and asit doesn't take much toolbox space I caved in.

 

I would just go out and buy the tool if it is only $10. It would come in handy over the years! Good choice.

 

I have spent more moneyon things thatmade my life harder.
$10.00 for a tool that makes my life easiers is a no brainer.
What's the part # and auto store?

Thanks Norri
.

 

I went to Schucks, but I think most of them should carry it.
I don't have a part number but they were hanging on the rack with all the tools so should be easy to find.

Good Luck!