Okay... I had a complete brake job done about a week ago. Brand new rotars and pads but still I have a squeek!!! I'm going to call the guy who did them but can anyone tell me why they would squeek when everything is brand new?? I'm so tired of the squeeky brakes and just want them to be quiet....! [:@]

 

I know that this isn't going to make you feel any better but sometimes it's just a combination of the 2 different types of materials (harder rotors and pads) rubbing together that cause squeaking. I've also been told that the new braking materials being used to prolong the pad life are also the reason for squeaking brakes. Check with your guy and see what he says. Also sometimes that squeak actually comes from the suspension vibrating when braking. Make sure also that the new pad backs were coated with the brake quiet compound.
Sorry to say that sometimes they just squeak.

 

what type of pads and rotors did you install on the car? some times you need to beddi ur brakes/ brake them in.


here are some steps to brake them in

[ol][*]
From a speed of 60mph, gently apply the brakes a couple of times to bring them up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps. [*]
Make a series of eight near-stops from 60 to about 10 mph. Do it HARD by pressing the brakes firmly, but do not lock the wheels or engage ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph and then apply the brakes again. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! If you stop completely and sit there with your foot on the brake pedal, you will imprint pad material onto the hot rotors, which could lead to vibration, uneven braking, and even ruin the rotors. [*]
The brakes may begin to fade after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A strong smell from the brakes, and even smoke, is normal. [*]
After the 8th near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and cruise for a while, using the brakes as little as possible. The brakes need about 5 minutes to cool down. Try not to become trapped in traffic or come to a complete stop while the brakes are still very hot. [*]
If race pads, such as Hawk DTC-70 or Performance Friction 01 are being used, add four near-stops from 80 to 10mph. [*]
After the break-in cycle, there should be a slight blue tint and a light gray film on the rotor face. The blue tint tells you the rotor has reached break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is what you are looking for. The best braking occurs when there is an even layer of of pad material deposited across the face of the rotors. This minimizes squealing, increases braking torque, and maximizes pad and rotor life. [*]
After the first break in cycle shown above, the brakes may still not be fully broken in. A second bed-in cycle, AFTER the brakes have cooled down fully from the first cycle, may be necessary before the brakes really start to perform well. This is especially true if you have installed new pads on old rotors. If you've just installed a big brake kit, the pedal travel may not feel as firm as you expected. After the second cycle, the pedal will become noticeably firmer. If necessary, bleed the brakes to improve pedal firmness[/ol]
i have install R1Concepts.com rotors drilled and slotted. with posiquite ceramic pads with anti squeak paste on the pads. they are great no noise what so ever. that i had with OEM PADS. Try to brake then in the pads if not try and get some posiquite ceramic pads.

 

What type of pads were used uptown gal?? Remember what i said about brakes in your last post??

 

I'm going to talk to my mechanic and asked him what he used. I think he went with metallic pads but not sure on brands..

 

I had the squeek also but had to slam on brakes due to an ******* who stopped on pennsie trpk. because his cup flew out his window Soo 78 mph stomp on brake let ABS take over no more squeek

 

hahahahahaha...well there ya go...