Brakes... the last word.
#1
10-01-2008, 02:50 PM
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Brakes... the last word.
I'm planning on replacing rotors and pads, leaning toward Brembo rotors and Akebono Euro Ceramic pads or EBC RedStuff. I've also looked at several eBay cheap rotor options (R1, CQUENCE, BrakeMotive, Aspire) they're all cross-drilled etc., but I guess you get what you pay for and I'm unsure as to the brands, all sound too good to be true for the price... any thoughts or suggestions? I'm looking to get the best possible solution for my 2001 V8 Sport and any input or advice would be greatly appreciated, cheers gentlemen!
#2
10-01-2008, 03:00 PM
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RE: Brakes... the last word.
I HAVE CROSSDRILLED AND CHAMFERED MY OWN FOR YEARS, BUT IF YOURE BUYING, JUST GET THEM ALREADY DONE AND COATED. I HAVE NEVER USED EBAYS ON A CUSTOMER, BUT BREMBO, EBC, AND AKEBONO ALL WITHOUT ISSUE. WANT TO REALLY SET THEM OFF ESPECIALLY ON OPEN WHEELS, USE CALIPER PAINT AND PAINT THE BRACKETS AND CALIPERS AFTER YOUVE CLEANED AND SCRUBBED THEM REAL WELL. i HAVE A FEW FOR CUSOTMERS AND MY OWN AND THEY LOOK FANTASTIC
#3
10-01-2008, 05:18 PM
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RE: Brakes... the last word.
Ok has anyone here tried the slotted and drrilled rotors by brake planet? The look attractive and looks like it will do a good job , not to mention the price. Is this a good buy?
www.brakeplanet.com
www.brakeplanet.com
#4
10-01-2008, 05:43 PM
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#5
10-01-2008, 09:01 PM
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10-01-2008, 09:38 PM
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#8
10-02-2008, 09:52 AM
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RE: Brakes... the last word.
Slotted rotors allow the gases created during the braking process to be channeled away from the rotor and thus increase the surface area between the pad and the rotor. Some think that it is to reduce heat, but it is for the above captioned reason. Drilled isn't as effective and increase pad wear.
#10
10-02-2008, 12:40 PM
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RE: Brakes... the last word.
Not as much as a good channeling jobdoes (IMO)and doing both wouldlikely reduce overall the rigidity of the rotor.
I've tried both ways and have found that channeling provides a better pathway through which gasses can be vented; thusincreasing the size of the contact patch between the pad and rotor.
I've found that drilling holesusually led to some strange wear on pads too; reducing their lifespan.
I've tried both ways and have found that channeling provides a better pathway through which gasses can be vented; thusincreasing the size of the contact patch between the pad and rotor.
I've found that drilling holesusually led to some strange wear on pads too; reducing their lifespan.
#12
10-02-2008, 07:28 PM
RE: Brakes... the last word.
Interesting side note.....nearly every last sport bike that has been sold for the last 15 years has been manufactured with cross-drilled rotors. Prior to that..it was a mix of solid, slotted, and a few that were cross-drilled.
On my 02 Sport..I'm currently running slotted and dimpled EBC rotors w/ yellow pads and have recently started to feel a pulsation in pedal after heavy braking leading me to think I may have some warpage. I'll have to inspect them this weekend.
On my 02 Sport..I'm currently running slotted and dimpled EBC rotors w/ yellow pads and have recently started to feel a pulsation in pedal after heavy braking leading me to think I may have some warpage. I'll have to inspect them this weekend.
#13
10-03-2008, 08:58 AM
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RE: Brakes... the last word.
This is my first post to this forum so I'll probably get FLAMED TO HIGH HEAVEN, but here it goes anyway. I pretty much agree with everything so it shouldn't be too bad but I have some to add.
First off, I'd like to say that gas slotting and cross-drilling have no advantage on the street. If you like the way they look go for it, if you think you're going to realize some performace advantage on the street, forget it. Cross-drilling only removes a few ounces of material from a 6-8+ POUNDitem. If you're that worried about unsprung wieght, do you realize that two tires of the exact same size from two different manufacturers can weigh 2-3 pounds different due to carcass construction? Penny wise pound foolish. I agree gas slotting is great becasue it can eliminate pad fade by wiping the incandescent boundary layer off the pad at high pad temps. Once again, on a quality pad this happens in the 800F+ range, who is getting pads that hot on the street? Most people are going to boil thier brake fluid off well before this happens, so it's kind of a moot point. If I had to choose, I agree with Marcus and take gas slotting, but remember to clean the slots out between track sessions or they can lose their advantage.
Venumb, you are correct, sport-bike rotors are cross-drilled but it should be noted that (since this is a car forum and some guys might not be aware of this) that bike rotors are solid and only 1/8" or so thick and the hats are very light, so cross-drilling actually removes (pecentage wise) a fair amount of material. They are also out in the open, not inside of a wheel inside of a fender well so pad fade isn't as much of an issue.
oilman151, I agree 100%, frozen rotors (cryogenically treated) gas slotted only with ceramic pads is the ultimate combo.
BRUTAL, I agree painting calipers looks great. I would like to add that spending 15-20 minutes per caliper with a Dremel tool and those little sandpaper drums smoothing out the surface is well worth the effort. It takes it from looking like some guy did it in his garage to looking like a professional powdercoat job. It also insures all the brake dust is completely removed so the paint color and finish will be much improved.
Well that's about it, anyone who is still awake at this point, feel free to FLAME ON NOW!
Later,
Wally
First off, I'd like to say that gas slotting and cross-drilling have no advantage on the street. If you like the way they look go for it, if you think you're going to realize some performace advantage on the street, forget it. Cross-drilling only removes a few ounces of material from a 6-8+ POUNDitem. If you're that worried about unsprung wieght, do you realize that two tires of the exact same size from two different manufacturers can weigh 2-3 pounds different due to carcass construction? Penny wise pound foolish. I agree gas slotting is great becasue it can eliminate pad fade by wiping the incandescent boundary layer off the pad at high pad temps. Once again, on a quality pad this happens in the 800F+ range, who is getting pads that hot on the street? Most people are going to boil thier brake fluid off well before this happens, so it's kind of a moot point. If I had to choose, I agree with Marcus and take gas slotting, but remember to clean the slots out between track sessions or they can lose their advantage.
Venumb, you are correct, sport-bike rotors are cross-drilled but it should be noted that (since this is a car forum and some guys might not be aware of this) that bike rotors are solid and only 1/8" or so thick and the hats are very light, so cross-drilling actually removes (pecentage wise) a fair amount of material. They are also out in the open, not inside of a wheel inside of a fender well so pad fade isn't as much of an issue.
oilman151, I agree 100%, frozen rotors (cryogenically treated) gas slotted only with ceramic pads is the ultimate combo.
BRUTAL, I agree painting calipers looks great. I would like to add that spending 15-20 minutes per caliper with a Dremel tool and those little sandpaper drums smoothing out the surface is well worth the effort. It takes it from looking like some guy did it in his garage to looking like a professional powdercoat job. It also insures all the brake dust is completely removed so the paint color and finish will be much improved.
Well that's about it, anyone who is still awake at this point, feel free to FLAME ON NOW!
Later,
Wally
#15
10-03-2008, 11:57 AM
RE: Brakes... the last word.
I have been looking for some rotors after upgrading my wheels on my STR. Theseare the only rotors thatI have found that come close to what I want.
http://eurotoysltd.com/catalog/produ...roducts_id=208
http://eurotoysltd.com/catalog/produ...roducts_id=208
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