Hello , I have a 2001 jag s type 3.0. I began to have no heat issues this week and I am on the road to repairing it. I changed out the thermostat today and noticed way cooler temps on bottom end of themo housing compared to top. I think top was like 160-180 when i checked and bottom was like 70 degrees. So i decided to remov thermostat for now to move forward and find why no heat....I should still be able to obtain this I think. So after that "uninstall", I filled, used main bleeder at from of engine to bleed air out of main lines, well as i turned it , it poped out and parts of "it" where broke off inside the tube, two main large chunks i was able to remove right away, but for one im not sure if anything else is missing or in there because i dont know what its supposed to look it complete. Inside the hole I see basically two 'side rails' at a sloping sliding angle downward, looks stock and like it had something to do with guiding the bleeder into the hole as it locks down. But the cap or 'bleeder' valve is definately a 'lid' with an o-ring now. It goes on and seals the area for now, but im not sure if this system can operate with just a "cap with an o-ring' ....missing its underparts if I may. Anyone experience this, and can the system still work with just this hole plugged, or are the grooves and parts missing from the bottomside of this plug, intrical to the air bleed/flow when its in there, looks like it might work in conjunction with hose running up to expansion tank in some manner even when it is in its place. Any help would be appreciated. If this is not my 'no heat issue' then I am moving onto the DCCV and or a matrix flush tomorrow, maybe even a whole everything flush if there are missing plastic parts floating in there.

 

If the issue is no heat from the heater inside the vehicle, the DCCV is normally the cause.

If you have the radiator fan running after the engine has been shut off, the thermostat or lack of sufficient coolant are normally the cause.

Bleeding the cooling system on the 3.0 V6 is completed in two steps: getting air pockets out of the engine and bleeding the heater core. The bleed screw on the inlet manifold is used to bleed the engine, while the screw on the end of the hose next to the expansion tank is used to bleed the heater core.

The AJ16 and AJ-V6 engines do not like being overheated and can react in an unfavourable manner if run without a thermostat in place. If you replace the thermostat, be certain to obtain one with a bleed passage and install it at the correct angle.

 

Just looking for a few comments or a little brain picking before morning, when i HAVE to tackle the rest of this project. Im hoping to adjust the left over piece of the bleeder into a position to allow the air to escape to bleeder hose...for now....I cannot do the whole upper hose assembly replacement right now due to christmas around the corner.

The more I think about this, and read about every heat or coolant related comment on this forum for the last two days, Im thinking the bleeder cap is my culprit for bleeding the system properly and getting heat. I believe I might have just shoved it back in there the wrong way, the groves meeting the notches of bleeder valve declare it closed I have read, but turning it 90 degrees either way puts the air channel on side of bleeder valve in position to release air from main engine coolant to the overflow cannister. I didnt realize this, plus I had it shove in too deep, it needs to be set at the plane of the notch to notch if you know what I mean.

 

With the heater set to Hi, the three pipes on the RH frame rail should all be hot. If they are not, after you have bled the system, the DCCV is most likely at fault.

 

My problem right now is just filling the system and letting it bleed. The bleeder in front of the engine is designed to be turned 90 degrees to align the port through the bleeder valve with the engine and the expansion tank, if this valve cant do this, im thinking its main culprit in my 'air' stuck in the system. When I removed the thermostat yesterday, all three pipes from the dccv to matrix were hot, the top two aroud 110 degrees F and the main bottom, larger one at around 160-180 degrees farenheit. The 3 lines going through the firewall were also at decent temps going through. I could get around 70 degrees through the vents at first, then i would do some matrix bleeding next to the resevior for a few 3-5 min runs at 1500-2000 rpms to build the pressure to bleed it. I was getting air burps and it seemed like right after a burp, i would slowly climb up to maybe 80 even 85 F but then back down. Burp again, up again then down again, I tried talking myself into believing it was a super long process, so i burned almost a quarter tank of gas , doing this over and over, I never got constant high heat or any pattern that seemed as if it was getting to a fixed point. Just when I would think it was going up little by little each time, all of a sudden I would be back at a lower temp, like 60s....BTW I am in Wisconsin. Temp yesterday was an average of around 40 i think. I am going to try to adjust whats left of the bleeder today to the top end can burp air into the expansion tank, then test dccv, but i think its fine. 3rd guess is to flush matrix. I will be putting the thermostat in right away though..,,,, now the rubber oring goes on after the thermostat right? and is this the only seal for the set up?

2001 jaguar s type 3.0 petrol.

 

I am i the process of pulling the dccv now, my lower of the 3 pipes hit around 100 and the top two never over 70-75 deg F so Im into the dccv to see if its stuck closed.
My main problem is how to deal with this bleeder valve that is broken for now. All I have is the upper most part of the valve, the head down to just below the rubber o ring....everything else is missing off the part, i pulled the broken pieces out and put cap back in bleeder pipe. now I think that its not deep enough to block the hole to the overflow canister, is that going to be a problem?

 

Yes, the rubber seal holds the thermostat in the housing on the 3.0 V6. Be certain you have the thermostat seated correctly so the housings seat together correctly. You may also want to apply a small amount of anti-seize compound to the bolt threads to make them easier to remove in the future.

 

The dccv was definately stuck closed. I opened it up, popped coils off and lifted the piston plates some to insert penetrating lube, also filled both output line connection points to drip some back at bottom end of valving, and sprayed the piston itself up top. After working it for a minute I began to get the pistions to click into and out of position, opening and closing now. To test i put a garden hose on the input side and both outs to matrix began to let water through. I pressed each valve down and seen they worked and closed that outlet. Im going to soak it for a bit longer, work it back and forth, then Ill rinse through with hose again and reassemble and try it. It there anyone who has rebuilt these and reused them? I am interested in reading on there rebuild techniques. I would like to know how to improve function or maybe but sealants in particular areas to ward of leaking into the coil area? I am absolutely broke right now and I have no choice but to repair and put back in till the new year....I'd appreciate any links to rebuild/reuse posts if anyone knows of any. I have searched and found nothing related.

 

You are wasting your time.

Replace it with a new one. Do a good flush and fill with the proper coolant. Which coolant are now using?
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if I just bought a new one and replace it for everything I see wrong or think is wrong with this car I would be broke. I have had dozens of cars and have reengineered or corrected flaws over and over, they usully all work, so I wanted to conquer this dreaded dccv valve.

actully the dccv works pefectlly now, there was sludge and dirt that stuck it closed. I just rebuilt the whole thing to like new specs and put it back in, works perfectly. The rubber seals were worn, but i can live with knowing that until the SECOND time it breaks, that when I will replace it. Repair/Rebuild is second nature to me and is no skin of my back, and I'm about 95 percent on record, most things continue to work just fine. I am an engineer, not a backyard mechanic so I think that helps.

The problem with all of our dccv's is ......it was just never designed right, so a new one can do the same thing my rebuilt one could do....fail....due to its design...so trying to reuse it only makes sense to me. There is no permenant fix, nor does a new one guarantee a permenant fix because its design sucks.

Thanks to everyone for the help and info.

 

ok, now im looking to buy a replacement upper radiator hose assembly, only because i have a broken bleeder, that sucks. Wish I could just buy that damn thing....UNLESS someone has an old removed upper that they would be willing to sell me the bleeder screw....PLEASE. My whole upper is in great condition, hoses are great, i just bought the car with the broken bleeder, didnt know till winter hit and i needed heat!


I am also probably going to grab a dccv [even though i just rebuilt mine and its working] and an expansion tank to get those out of the way.

I'm almost certain this bleeder is causing all of my problems, can't get it to bleed out right, and it gets cold when i drive...hope its not a water pump that cant handle the rpms during drive!!! not sure...but is seems as if the system is circulating and pressurizing fine.

 

since youre and engineer, lets talk about that bleeder ontop of the upper coolant pipe matrix...NEVER EVER NEVER EVER use it. IT is ENGINEERED by the parts supplier to Jaguar to fail at that point. The turrent containing the bleeder is attached with about a 1/32nd think piece of plastic. We dont even LOOK at that piece without quoting it for replacement if we're working anywhere close to it. BY a new upper assembly and use a good plastic epoxy like 3m and build it up good and strong while its new and clean. Beat the failure engineers at their own games. We dont ever use that to bleed. Like NB said, use the bleeder plug on the hose by the reservoir. I prefer a fill with that open to it pisses, then close and top up, runs a minute, shut off and vacuum the system to draw air out and purge the system

 

ya, when i began the project, many write up said to bleed there first, just about every one...but as it turned into a repair....then all those write ups refered to what you are saying...STAY AWAY FROM IT....so i tried to listen...but i guess i listened to the wrong people...that being said, I guess im gonna buy that whole upper hose assembly tomorrow online. It has to be causing all my problems I have stated above,what do you think? Cant really get system to bleed and I lose heat when i drive.


BTW, i believe ALOT of jag parts are ENGINEERED to fail, including the dreaded dccv valve, and the no protected circuit to the controls, imt seals, 4/3 spring in trans, expansion tank, 02 sensors...thats all ive had a chance to experience so far in my short 3 month ownership of my first jag.

Thanks for the heads up though, much appreciated. F.rom what I have read , you are very respected around here.

 

I reckon Bosch sell plenty DCCVs. Don't think Ford make much out of those 4-3 springs, though!

 

I dont see alot of 02 failures, and its not just a Jaguar thing. I read an article in ID magazine about everything from batteries, to printers cell phones etc all engineered to fail. Not to mention all the changes that are made to products and software that makes them obsolite and non combatible with older versions requiring a new product purchases.
Have you tried blowing out your heater core with the lines undone yet with compressed air. I ALWAYS try to do this when I have them undone as the cores tend to clog. You think that gunk on the DCCV stopped there?

 

Update:

No more bleeder problem, bought new upper hose assembly and expansion tank. I started another thread discussing my new issues......

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...n-drive-86520/

 

Maybe. It depends on your age and experience but you do an injustice to backyard mechanics.

If someone grows up with a Nintendo Gameboy in their hands and then graduates to 3D Cad, then they might just feel that as long as it works on the simulator, all is well with the world.

Not so. A screen and some software is not reality. Someone who has actually had many broken things in their hands has a better chance of getting it right.

Take the case of the infamous plastic secondary tensioners.

The original design concept was fine. It even seems better than the replacement metal tensioners. It was a nice piece that someone screwed up by not knowing when to stop. The problem is in the effort to reduce materials cost and weight by shaving a little here and a little there, combined with the unfortunate alignment slot for the metal sleeve. They *always* start cracking in the exact same spot. The thin spot caused by the slot. If they had left sufficient plastic, it would not have been a problem. And any backyard mechanic would have seen it coming.

 

Sorry if I offended any backyard mechanics out there. Merry Christmas to all.