Yes it has more than 3 hoses, I only mentioned the ones I ca see from top side. The part that really has me puzzled is that when I first start the car everything works great, cold air, hot heat, can move from heater to ac, vents from floor to defroster to front vents and it still works great when back on ac. The moment I raise the rpms the drivers side starts getting warm, but the passenger side remains cold. Lower the rpms and the ac goes back cold on both sides. Any clues?

 

Have you checked your aux pump for proper operation and 12V?

 

I will do that tomorrow..

 

This sounds like heat on the driver's side vice ambient air. Also beginning to sound like a faulty solenoid on your DCCV. Apparently capable of holding the valve closed at idle, but not with the increased pressure/flow rate at elevated rpm's. I believe if you had a burnt trace on your climate control module, or a stuck DCCV, you'd only have cold air on both sides at cold-start until the coolant began to warm up..then your driver's side would start to go warm, on to hot, given time, even at idle. Increased rpms would exacerbate the problem and speed up the heating due to increased coolant temp and flow-rate through the core.

 

I do have 12 volts to the aux pump.

 

That's good.

Now put 12V to the actual pump and listen for it to run... There is a + & - market onto the pump connector.

 

No luck on this yet. I'm being told by Jaguar houston that it is very rare that on a early 2002 S-Type that the module is shorted out. I'm going to take a shot at another DCCV. Once I receive it and install it I will post the results.

 

Many 02 and prior HVAC modules have shorted out... It's easier to pull it out and check vs. replacing the DCCV. Considering you already had replaced your DCCV I would check that climate circuit board.

Remember, Jaguar dealerships replace with new parts. They won't troubleshoot down to a burnt track on the circuit board.

 

Jaguar Houston? I don't know the names, but if I were in the Houston area in need of Jaguar service, I'd make sure I found the dealership that employs Brutal!!! Either that or contact him through the forum and ask if he accepts such jobs out of his home-shop. I've no doubt he could sort it.

 

I will do this today. Haven't ordered pump yet. Will confirm this pump is running before I order.

 

Maybe I misunderstand the problem. Sounds to me like your gripe is that with full cold selected on both sides, you get hot air out of the driver's side vents once you increase turns above idle, while cold air continues to emanate from the passenger side vents. Once returned to idle, the driver's side begins to cool off, returning to full cold as long as you leave the engine at idle. Correct?

If so, you don't have a refrigerant circuit problem. (Cold air is produced and delivered to your pax-side vents)
You don't have a coolant circulation pump problem. (hot coolant is delivered to the appropriate section of the heater core to produced heated air at the driver's side vents)

At full cold, one task of the climate control module is to command the water valve to keep both sides closed to prevent coolant flow to the heater core. (I suspect, but not having the V-8, don't care enough to look it up - that it also commands the coolant circulation pump to "off")
The task of the water valve (DCCV) is to keep both outlets to the heater core closed as commanded by the climate control module.

Enjoy playing with your coolant pump, but make sure you reserve some time to diagnose your real problem.

 

Similar to uptwobucks, my 05 STR's AC is cool (not cold) at idle but after the accelerator is pressed the AC is warm. Then AC air turns hot after a couple minutes at higher rpms. If the engine returns to idle for a few minutes, the AC will again become cool (not cold). I'll let you know what I find out.

Edit/Add:
After engine idled for just over 5 minutes, with an air temp of 80F, these were the AC vent temps (cool, not cold)
(Left 70F) - - (Center Left 66F) - - (Center Right 67F) - - (Right 72F)

 

1320Racer, you seem to have a refrigerant system problem in addition to uptwobucks' problem. Better check your hi/lo side pressures.
There's a TSB for a mod to the a/c compressor for substandard idle performance.

 

aholbro1: You are very likely correct; I will verify the pressures.

I usually repair most everything myself but this AC issue has me stumped. I had TOPLINE Jaguar in Virginia work on my AC system but after spending a lot of money, they were not able to fix the AC system -- ever after a couple attempts to do so. Don't get me wrong, everyone at TOPLINE was nice (both shop personnel and the female owner) but they were not able to fix my AC issues.

 

I pulled out the control module last year but could not find anything abnormal, but I agree, I will pull it out to look once again.

 

How do I find this Brutal person?

 

Yes, That is correct. Cold at idle, raise the rpms, drivers side goes to ambient air. Once returned to idle, both sides cold again.

 

Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum - View Profile: Brutal

Looks like he hasn't graced us since the middle of August.....it will be a SAD DAY indeed if Brutal has left the forum....

 

I must not be correct, then, because even so you are in South Texas, Hot Air is not equal to Ambient Air, at least for the purposes of this discussion....

With that, I give up! I can't imagine a scenario where you have a cold evap core and you get "pass-thru" ambient air from one side. Heated air, clear enough...that's just failure to stop the hot water upstream of the heater core.
Only possibility I can see is the increased rpms are forcing "a little bit" of hot water through the side of the DCCV that serves the driver's side, and that trickle is only enough to warm the cold air coming from the evap up to about the 90-100 you have in the environment there. Otherwise, I fold.

 

Maybe this is the TSB for the compressor not cooling?
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