I noticed this summer that my A/C wasn't as cold as it had previously been, but, living in San Francisco, it wasn't too bad.

Now that I am back at school (in the midwest) I have noticed that my heater doesn't work. The fan seems to work fine, blowing air all the way to the highest level. The problem is it seems to be just blowing the cold air from outside or recycling the cold air from the inside. I'm curious about three things:

(1) What do you think this problem stems from?

(2) Is this a problem that a complete novice (I can change a car battery and a tire with no problem, but that is the extent of my knowledge) can remedy?

(3) If I have this done by a professional, what do you think it will cost?

Thank you so much in advance for any response!

 

HI..
i had the same problem.
but his particular topic has been discussed many times in the forum
this is due to the failing of DCCV (dual climate control valve).
for my STR it seems to be a common problem, not sure about your car.

i've been meaning to the repair my self, it seems easy, but i do wish some one did post a picture's or video clips on how to do this.
I do think it will involve draining the coolant.

 

To ***court28... Please post details about your car.. two "generations" and many drivetrains.. So, put car details in your signature.
That said, it is most likely the DCCV. You could probably tackle it yourself. It is a bit hard to get to, but not as bad as many other things..Again, not easy to say without knowing what car you have..

Kapitan... See above..On the STR I understand it is pretty tight to get to it. You shouldn't need to drain the coolant. Only so much will come out when you take off the hose. Just be sure to replace it with the exact same spec coolant when you bleed the system.. Also, change the valve soon! On the post 03 cars especially (yours has to be since it is a STR), the failed DCCV will short out the climate control module. Now, they have been fixed by soldering a jumper, but why set yourself up for more work..

I'm surprised no one has posted up instructions on changing it.. I do know there were pictures of what the valve looks like on one of the million threads about this..

 

Thanks for the response! I have a 2000 S-Type 3.0.

Does that change your response?

How much should I expect to pay if this proves too difficult for me to do myself?

Thank you again for the responses!

 

There are threads about changing it on that era of car. Access is fairly good on the 3.0 I think (unlike on the STR). The FAQ on parts gives the cheaper part you can buy. Any good mechanic could do the work, just make sure your car now uses the Orange coolant and that they also use it to top up.

 

I'm not new to forum etiquette, so I apologize for not checking around too much before posting.

I have not, however, found anyone with a price range to have a professional do this? I just want to have something in mind when I ask around to know what is competitive, etc.

Thank you again for the responses, and sorry for posting something that already has an answer.

 

JOworth
sorry my car is an 05 STR, i never did bleed/ change the coolant on my own, but probably i will try to change the DCCV then bring the car to the sop to change the coolant.
can the car be driven without being bleed?
thanks

 

Make sure you ADD coolant. DCCV isn't that hard to get to, you can take it out of the bottom on an STR. You will need to remove the front half of the belly pan. A LONG 1/4 inch extension helps a lot with getting to that 8mm bolt from the top.

Bleeding is easy, just a bit time consuming.

You can drive it without bleeding but you risk overheating the motor if there are air pockets. Why are you taking to a shop to change the coolant? Are you afraid of your ability to do it yourself, or don't want to deal with the mess?

Take care,

George

 

HI George.
I will try replacing the DCCV when i return Home Next 2 weeks (I m on business trip in Ohio)
i do remember a post that this is a cross reference part with Ford.
i have a link from amazon, but can't seems to verify if this will fit 05 STR
http://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-YG3...3122259&sr=8-1

and as I remember i also need a clamp removing tools (maybe from autozone/ sears)

Do you know what kind of coolant ratio do jaguar use? and how many gallons?
I might as well change the coolant and replace the thermostat
http://eurotoysltd.com/catalog/produ...oducts_id=1173

thanks...

 

That is the correct DCCV.

No need for a clamp removal tool, use a channel lock plier. I never reuse those pressure clamps, I always replace them. I use the standard screw down clamps and tighten them with an 8mm socket (usualy).

Jaguar sells their own coolant, but it's just rebranded Zerex-G05 at 3x the price. My local advanced auto carries it. If you plan on draining the entire cooling system, you're going to need 2 gallons of coolant (you wont use the 2nd gallon completely) and 2 gallons of distilled water (do NOT use tap water) - any supermarket / pharmacy should have this.

The two lines from the DCCV to the heater core are quick disconnects. Push them forward then pull off to detach. One of them has a green stripe on either side so you dont confuse them. Here's a pic of what they look like:



Take care - let me know if you need anything else or more advice.

George

 

thanks George

I will probably use a distilled water from my fish tank / from Walgreen.
do i mix it 50/50 or 70/30?

and bleeding is letting the engine run with the radiator cap open (making sure the temperature no going too high) for 15 min... until all the air escapes?

thanks.....

 

The more you read on here, you'll find that we don't quote prices.. It is real hard since labor costs are all over the place depending on where you live and where you take it..

If you really want to take it somewhere, make sure the shop knows what they are doing when it comes to bleeding the cooling system, and using the correct coolant. If you find or already have a trusted shop, expect to pay about 1.5 to 2 hrs labor on top of the price of parts. Make sure they use the Motocraft (Ford) part since it exactly the same Bosch valve as the Jag unit just a whole lot cheeper...

 

Walgreens Distilled water is fine. 50/50 mix is what the factory recommends.

Here's the coolant flush / bleeding procedure, it's not quite as simple as that, but it's not complicated. Have to run the engine for a while at a specific rpm, and set the heat.

Skip the step after the LHD 3.0 Petrol vehicles only, i think it's # 7 or 8 there is NO bleed on the engine crossover pipe on a V8 S-Type.

Take care,

George

 

HI George..
by anychange you have the V8 procedure too... i love to keep it as a record.

thanks a lot..

 

Joe,

That is the V8 procedure as well. There is no separate v6/v8 procedures. The v6 just has an extra step and an extra bleed valve to deal with. Hope that makes it clearer.

Take care,

George