A/C Issue- Right center Vent blows hot...sometimess
#1
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As of late my right center vent blows hot, left vent is fine throughout my testing. A/C works fine until I stop the car in park with it running for a little bit then drive off. The right blows hot and never goes back to cool UNLESS, I turn the car off for several minutes then start it back up and go. I notice this more with sub 80degree outside temp. I went into a store and it was about 78degrees and it was blowing hot, then when I came out it was pushing 90degrees and the A/C ran like a champ nice and cold the rest of the way home, about 10minute trip. It was 75degrees this morning cloudy with right rain and I had to get a pre-op covid test at the hospital which they conduct outside under a canopy. I had to stay in the car and move up until my turn and the right vent went hot after about five minutes and never went back to cool until I shut it off to fill up for gas. I then left and it was nice and cold for about 1o minutes then went hot again....sigh. This issue makes no difference if on manual or Auto low speeds or highway. My set temp and outside temp are always at least 9degrees apart. Now, I've had a little nagging issue where my center climate control display wierds out and flashes erratically but will straighten out eventually if I just tap the screen or just leave it alone, and this happened several weeks ago and may not weird out for a whole year, I just never know. I'm thinking some sensor for the left vent or a sticking vent, or maybe that climate control display. So there it is, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated as always. Thanks in advance
#2
#3
#4
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One quick thought, based on how you mentioned the problem is more prevalent after stopping. Get a little voltmeter doohickey (sorry for the technical lingo) that plugs into the cigarette lighter. One possibility is your charging system is marginal, but not bad enough you'd notice starting problems. When you idle the engine, the alternator RPM drops and so does the output. Combine that with high electrical load (HVAC fan blasting away, for example), and the overall system voltage drops. You'd still have a marginal DCCV, too, but this low voltage aggravates its behavior. The one side has a weak solenoid and it spring-loads open when voltage drops. Rev up the engine, voltage increases, and the solenoid closes properly. Just a hunch, but quick to rule out with a voltmeter.
#6
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If you still want to troubleshoot further?
Clamp all 3 heater hoses shut with pliers or clamps. These run side by side along the passenger side of the engine compartment. Mostly hard tubing but with rubber sections you can squeeze shut.This will prevent any hot water from entering the DCCV. If you have working AC from all vents now then change your DCCV again.
As others have said above it's not unusual to have it fail again after several years. Which is right where your sitting now!
But that really is a better failure than your AC so hopefully not real expensive or difficult to fix.
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Clamp all 3 heater hoses shut with pliers or clamps. These run side by side along the passenger side of the engine compartment. Mostly hard tubing but with rubber sections you can squeeze shut.This will prevent any hot water from entering the DCCV. If you have working AC from all vents now then change your DCCV again.
As others have said above it's not unusual to have it fail again after several years. Which is right where your sitting now!
But that really is a better failure than your AC so hopefully not real expensive or difficult to fix.
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.
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#7
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The DCCV has a very high failure rate and would be the prime suspect here, even though it's fairly new.
One quick thought, based on how you mentioned the problem is more prevalent after stopping. Get a little voltmeter doohickey (sorry for the technical lingo) that plugs into the cigarette lighter. One possibility is your charging system is marginal, but not bad enough you'd notice starting problems. When you idle the engine, the alternator RPM drops and so does the output. Combine that with high electrical load (HVAC fan blasting away, for example), and the overall system voltage drops. You'd still have a marginal DCCV, too, but this low voltage aggravates its behavior. The one side has a weak solenoid and it spring-loads open when voltage drops. Rev up the engine, voltage increases, and the solenoid closes properly. Just a hunch, but quick to rule out with a voltmeter.
One quick thought, based on how you mentioned the problem is more prevalent after stopping. Get a little voltmeter doohickey (sorry for the technical lingo) that plugs into the cigarette lighter. One possibility is your charging system is marginal, but not bad enough you'd notice starting problems. When you idle the engine, the alternator RPM drops and so does the output. Combine that with high electrical load (HVAC fan blasting away, for example), and the overall system voltage drops. You'd still have a marginal DCCV, too, but this low voltage aggravates its behavior. The one side has a weak solenoid and it spring-loads open when voltage drops. Rev up the engine, voltage increases, and the solenoid closes properly. Just a hunch, but quick to rule out with a voltmeter.
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#8
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Since I don't drive the car a lot I decided to hook up my battery charger/maintainer the other day. It's a nice Schumacher charger and when connected, it read the battery was only holding a 25% charge. I let it charge till the following day until it read 100% I took it for a short ride and let it idle in a parking spot it was reading an average of 14.20v, up from the other day when it was only 13.70v. Now I'll have to wait until the temp drops to under 80 degrees, since that's where it seems to have issues and see what happens. Keep you posted.I know I'm taking my time about this issue, please be patient.
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kr98664 (07-01-2021)
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