I replaced the DCCV, the auxillary water pump, just had a fellow solder the jumper wires into the ccm and the a/c still blows hotter than hades. Any suggestions on what to try next? No codes as of right now.

 

Is the module faulty? Does the wiring test good? Has a/c got gas?

 

To add to all the good suggestions above from JagV8 is the A/C clutch engaging? Also check the relay...

 

Lots of good troubleshooting suggestions in this thread:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ent-ac-160679/

I added some suggestions in post #10. It's important to determine if the underhood portion of the AC system is actually producing cold air, or if the temperature control portion of the system is inadvertently adding hot air when it shouldn't. Otherwise, you could be chasing your tail trying to troubleshoot.

 

I will check those, may be silly, but is the module the same as the ccm?

 

Short answer is yes.

The CCM is for cars without Navigation. Cars with Navigation use a RCCM (Remote Climate Control Module).
Both are called modules.
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Thanks to all for the help.

 

Update, system full of gas, compressor working like a champ. Is there a way to check if the jumper wires in the rccm are soldered correctly?

 

Do the basic tests at the DCCV and if it isn't being sent the right voltage you can go from there.

 

Did you have one side of the dash blowing hot air and the other side cold? Or hot all the way across the dash? The first symptom is classic of the heater control valve shorting out, the the climate control module takes the hit. Inside the module you can find a burnt track on the circuit board and repair as necessary. However, I have seen that the chip itself can get shorted too. You say the compressor is working like a champ, is that because the clutche is engaging? A compressor can still work, but unless the operating pressures on the high side and low side are where they should be, it's not going to work properly. Do you have manifold gauges or someone who has some to rule that out? The Evap temp sensors on the S-Type were common for short to ground, causing the clutch not to engage, the relays were also a culprit as well. Anymore info you can give?

 

Blowing hot all the way across. High and low sides are measuring fine ( had a/c professionally checked). The mechanicals all are in good shape. I am accumulating information since I recently had back surgery and can't get under the car. I have a son coming in shortly to help look at the car.

 

Kewpie mentions that he replaced the "auxiliary water pump" - is this only on the "R" or will I find one on my 4.2 NA ? I appear to be experiencing very similar symptoms and have been posting under Intermittent AC

 

Simple answer is free download JTIS (workshop manual) or hunt around www.jagrepair.com

 

The evaporator temperature sensors do not usually short out. But if they do fail they don't stop the compressor from engaging. You can test this yourself.

Unhook the evaporator temperature sensors. Pick any one as there are 3 of them. 2 on the drivers side and 1 on the passenger side. All 3 are the same and are another Ford part that was also used on the Lincoln LS. So any Ford dealer can get them. Check the resistance of the sensors. Replace any that are different. They are pretty cheap at around $20-$25 at the most.

You get to them under the dash and we have had pictures posted of where they are. They are a bit hidden but you can get them out.

Is the outside temperature reading correctly?

Don't worry about the AUX pump. If that fails you will lose heat at idle and slow engine speeds. No one has that symptom. Yes all the V-8's use them. All 4.0L, 4.2L and 4.2L SC use the AUX pump. We have been told it's because the heater core is mounted about the same height or a bit higher than the engine. So at low RPM's the water pump does not have enough power to push hot water thru the core. So the AUX pump provides this added pump pressure.

Generally you will get heat at highway speeds as the water pump is turning fast enough to circulate the coolant without the help of the AUX pump.

The "R" has an additional electric coolant pump in the inter-cooler loop. If this goes out you will know it! Heat soak almost immediately along with the massive cut in boost. No power!

I don't want to bring it up BUT if everything is working fine then you might have a blend door problem? Do you have any bubbling or gurgling or light tapping sounds from the dash area? Maybe turn the car off and listen?

I have one that gives a light tapping sound and it's the one behind the glove box. Does not look to bad to change and the part was only about $45. I have not changed it yet. I did notice that changing the vent positions will temporarily stop the blend doors from hunting for position.
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I have the gurgling noise, especially when you just turn off the engine. What is that about?

 

Clubairth1 questioned if the outside temp is reading correctly. I seem to be getting a reading that is 10 degrees F higher than actual temperatures. I'll check the sensors later today for resistance. I'll also check for the "gurgling".

 

The bubbling or gurgling sounds are typically caused by the servo blend door motors "hunting" for their correct positions based upon where you have the desired cabin temps set. The sounds are more evident after the engine has been shut off and can often continue to be heard for several minutes afterwards....

 

What's happening is the climate control system has to know the position of all blend doors to function properly. I think there are 4 in total. If the feed back from the blend door is such that the module can't tell what position the door is in. It then needs to find out.

The system goes into an auto calibrate mode. It cycles the blend door open and closed so the module can figure out what signal corresponds to full open and full closed. The problem is these blend doors move continuously. So they wear out and can't send back the proper reading anymore. Then the system endlessly keeps trying to calibrate the blend doors but can't.

When this happens you get a wide array of symptoms/problems. Because you don't know which doors are giving you the problem and how bad is it. You might have nothing but the noise of the doors going back and forth or you might have messed up temperatures coming out of the vents. Now this does set a code but unless you have a reader that can get all the codes you won't see them.

Do you know about the different levels of codes? We always say get the codes and this usually means P codes for Power train. But as you can imagine the blend doors are NOT part of the power train. There are C codes and U codes and B codes as well. You should see a B code for BODY for blend door problems.

Any chance you can get a better scanner and see if any other codes are listed?

Sorry Jon89 beat me to it!
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Here is a picture of the evaporator temperature sensor. It's long so it can stick out into the duct to measure the air temperature better.


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DCCV valve electricals checked out okay, so did the evap temp sensors, cleaned the sensor by the ignition.

Could a servo motor that has gone bad prevent cold air from coming out? My son was doing the work and he said a box behind the dash (down low) was really cold to the touch.

As a bonus treat, the hose under the supercharger has a nice leak.