A/C and Water Leak Issue
#1
A/C and Water Leak Issue
About 4 weeks ago under extended warranty I had a new ac compressor put in and the cooling has been great. This morning I drove the car and everything was fine. I had it parked for about 4 hours, went out to the store and had nothing but hot air blowing. The compressor is engaging when I turn on the a/c and I decided to check the fuse F32 (ac clutch and aux coolant pump) and that was fine. As i was doing so, I noticed coolant on the groud dripping from inside the engine and from the best I can tell (and I am not sure about this) it appears to be coming from the bottom of the dual coolant flow valve, although it is hard to be sure. I had the upper radiator assembly/thermostat replaced at the same time 4 weeks ago and the plastic tank, I replace 18 months ago and there are no leaks in that area. It could be a lower hose assembly or could even be the radiator, although it is dripping on the one of the lower joints on the car (passenger side) and the underneath of the dual coolant flow valve is wet.
The radiator fans are working and all the fuses seem fine and I assume a bad relay would show a check engine light.
These situations occurred at the exact same time and the water only seems to come out after the engine is off (I think) and only about a cup or two and then stops.
I know there is an electrical connector at the flow valve and i assume a signal to the engine.
Question, what type of water leak would cause the ac to blow no cool air.
I am having the car towed in the morning despite the fact i think it could be driven, but if I got a complete dump, the gauge may not show that and as I understand the 3.0 engine can burn up quickly.
i am only educating myself for the dealer as I never like to rely on just their view and the more knowledge - well all of you know the story.
Appreciate your help
Thanks
Tom in Dallas
2005 S-Type 3.0, 59,400
The radiator fans are working and all the fuses seem fine and I assume a bad relay would show a check engine light.
These situations occurred at the exact same time and the water only seems to come out after the engine is off (I think) and only about a cup or two and then stops.
I know there is an electrical connector at the flow valve and i assume a signal to the engine.
Question, what type of water leak would cause the ac to blow no cool air.
I am having the car towed in the morning despite the fact i think it could be driven, but if I got a complete dump, the gauge may not show that and as I understand the 3.0 engine can burn up quickly.
i am only educating myself for the dealer as I never like to rely on just their view and the more knowledge - well all of you know the story.
Appreciate your help
Thanks
Tom in Dallas
2005 S-Type 3.0, 59,400
#2
#4
I think
I have read where it can cause problems with the CCM, however except for the hot air, everything else seems to work on it and the symptoms listed at I guess it the online store that rebuilds them, ( Dead or partially working, Dead LCD, no response to buttons, limited air direction and/or AC compressor will not engage) do not seem to be a problem as of now.
Thanks
Tom
#5
#7
You can purchase the DCCV from amazon, thats where I got mine for $91 Ford/Motorcraft part yg-378, (three hose valve).
Good Luck.
UPdate: Damm its lower in price now.....
Amazon.com: Motorcraft YG378 Heater Valve: Automotive
Good Luck.
UPdate: Damm its lower in price now.....
Amazon.com: Motorcraft YG378 Heater Valve: Automotive
Thanks
Tom in Dallas ( and of course it is hot)
Trending Topics
#8
#10
My experience...
Just keep watching the CCM. Since you have a warranty, wait for it to act up. It very well may. For others: After my DCCV failed (worked just fine but showed signs of leaking) and was replaced my CCM started flashing. This was about 4 months after the DCCV replacement. Jaguar tech said the flashing was the CCM's way of saying it was failing (LOL). It was replaced and all was well. My point, the CCM damage may not show itself for a while after DCCV replacement.
#11
Question:
Does a leaking DCCV- leak enough to be dangerous to drive and risk a huge dump of coolant? I am only askig that in htat it would be very much easier just to drive it to the dealership, but I don't want to destroy the engine by a sudden dump of coolant. Also, even though I have the CCM off, is there the danger of more driving and destruction thereof of the CCM or if I took out the fuse and I am not sure which one even- would that help??
Thanks
Tom in Dallas
Does a leaking DCCV- leak enough to be dangerous to drive and risk a huge dump of coolant? I am only askig that in htat it would be very much easier just to drive it to the dealership, but I don't want to destroy the engine by a sudden dump of coolant. Also, even though I have the CCM off, is there the danger of more driving and destruction thereof of the CCM or if I took out the fuse and I am not sure which one even- would that help??
Thanks
Tom in Dallas
#12
Most reported DCCV leaks here on the forum are trickle-type with minimal coolant loss at least for awhile, but remember that Murphy's Law always seems to bite you when you take chances. How far away is your dealership? If it's 3 miles, you may get lucky. If it's 30 miles, you may be asking for trouble....
If you're an AAA Plus member, they will tow you for free up to 100 miles....
If you're an AAA Plus member, they will tow you for free up to 100 miles....
#13
Question:
Does a leaking DCCV- leak enough to be dangerous to drive and risk a huge dump of coolant? I am only askig that in htat it would be very much easier just to drive it to the dealership, but I don't want to destroy the engine by a sudden dump of coolant. Also, even though I have the CCM off, is there the danger of more driving and destruction thereof of the CCM or if I took out the fuse and I am not sure which one even- would that help??
Thanks
Tom in Dallas
Does a leaking DCCV- leak enough to be dangerous to drive and risk a huge dump of coolant? I am only askig that in htat it would be very much easier just to drive it to the dealership, but I don't want to destroy the engine by a sudden dump of coolant. Also, even though I have the CCM off, is there the danger of more driving and destruction thereof of the CCM or if I took out the fuse and I am not sure which one even- would that help??
Thanks
Tom in Dallas
Like yours mine only leaks during or after cool down, nothing when hot or running, and only sporatically, watched it for 2 days since and not happening again.
Sounds like most members think it is the DCCV ours is original at 62000 miles.
Thanks for the input guys. I will get it into the dealer, still have 6 months left on ext warranty.
#14
Tom, I was just looking at the forum this morning, when I saw your problem I just kind of laughed. I was going to jump on and report the same problem with our STR. Also in Dallas lol. Hottest week of the year (so far) so it might have something to do with the coolent and engine temps.
Like yours mine only leaks during or after cool down, nothing when hot or running, and only sporatically, watched it for 2 days since and not happening again.
Sounds like most members think it is the DCCV ours is original at 62000 miles.
Thanks for the input guys. I will get it into the dealer, still have 6 months left on ext warranty.
Like yours mine only leaks during or after cool down, nothing when hot or running, and only sporatically, watched it for 2 days since and not happening again.
Sounds like most members think it is the DCCV ours is original at 62000 miles.
Thanks for the input guys. I will get it into the dealer, still have 6 months left on ext warranty.
T in D
#15
Like I said this leak happened once and won't repeat yet. I will take the belly pan off later and get underneath for more inspection.
I will chime in later when the car cools and I get below.
Last edited by MyBlackCat; 06-15-2012 at 02:24 PM.
#16
#17
Nothing going on with the AC at the moment. Wife drives the car 99.9% of the time. I just took it for a 40 mile drive and all seems fine, no movement on the temp gauge, straight in the middle.
Like I said this leak happened once and won't repeat yet. I will take the belly pan off later and get underneath for more inspection.
I will chime in later when the car cools and I get below.
Like I said this leak happened once and won't repeat yet. I will take the belly pan off later and get underneath for more inspection.
I will chime in later when the car cools and I get below.
Just gor under and took the belly pan off.
The leak has reappeared upon engine cool down.
It is coming from the DCCV body.
I will get it into the dealer tomorrow.
This will knock another major part off the list before warranty expires.
The fuel door stopped locking last week.
The more on the list the better, I pay $100.00 deductable no matter how many things are on the list.
Just driver side headlight that hasn't puked yet on the major repair list of things that go wrong with ALL STR's
#18
#19
#20
Hey I'm in Dallas (Arlington ) same issues I swapped out the dccv in march for heat so now I have no ac .I will be doing a few more checks on some things next week . Anyone knows if your cc panel is looking normal but when I turn the ac on I can get a quick click from the compressor.
Just got mine back from the dealer and the Climate Control took a hit and I only ran the car about 5 minutes after I got the original outage of the AC and the nice leak from the DCCV. So I am quite sure you took a hit on the CC Head unit.
They mentioned on my repair itemization that they programmed the CC head Unti. Does it really need that- it does appear to be a plug and go item?
I have an extended warranty with Performance First and they were only willing to pay $700 for the CC Head and the Jag cost is $1425. They wanted the dealer to get a re-manufactured one and they were not going to do that saying they only worked for about 3 months and they could never get money back from these after- market dealers. Frankly, I think that is much BS, but at that point, I had limited options and if I took it somewhere else, it might have been funny to the warranty company or that might have considered it a different claim and hit me for another $200 in deducatable0- so I just paid the difference and went on. A different non-dealer shop probably would have been different and I am sure that Russel at JagMag might have handled it differently. But there I have to go through the hassle and expense of getting a rental car vs. a loaner (althoug the 2012 XF are fun to drive) Just my llatest experience. However the extened warrant has been a winner for me as I paid $2500 for it and so far they have paid out $4700 on the car. It is still valid until march 2013 and I am sure some other wear item will go out and so I highly recommend them.
Tom in Dalas
2005 Jag S-Type 59,350