A/C and Water Leak Issue
#21
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Happy you got it sorted Tom.
I will chime in on my solution now that Tom has come back with his.
(didn't want to hijack his thread) Since we had similar problems no sense in starting another thread.
They changed my DCCV and the CCM, everything is working fine...BUT yesterday when I got the car home and decided to detail it, after being shut down and keys pulled and put in my pocket 30-45 minutes had passed I heard the blower fan going full tilt???? The car was asleep prior to this??? Called the dealer and they said bring it back.
Left it overnight expecting a dead battery today from the fan coming on but it was fine.
I will see how it goes over the weekend, it might have only done it one or maybe I just caught it once. we shall see, any way it is going back. Maybe like Tom suggested it needs to be programmed or tweaked or just a bad CCM It was a brand new unit.
Dealers invoice for DCCV, CCM a gas door actuator and labor was $2119.00
My deductible on Easy Care is $100.00 .
I have 4 months left on the warranty and it has paid for itself 4 or 5 times over
Will have to decide at the expiry if we keep the car or renew the policy. No warranty will be a scary proposition,
I will chime in on my solution now that Tom has come back with his.
(didn't want to hijack his thread) Since we had similar problems no sense in starting another thread.
They changed my DCCV and the CCM, everything is working fine...BUT yesterday when I got the car home and decided to detail it, after being shut down and keys pulled and put in my pocket 30-45 minutes had passed I heard the blower fan going full tilt???? The car was asleep prior to this??? Called the dealer and they said bring it back.
Left it overnight expecting a dead battery today from the fan coming on but it was fine.
I will see how it goes over the weekend, it might have only done it one or maybe I just caught it once. we shall see, any way it is going back. Maybe like Tom suggested it needs to be programmed or tweaked or just a bad CCM It was a brand new unit.
Dealers invoice for DCCV, CCM a gas door actuator and labor was $2119.00
My deductible on Easy Care is $100.00 .
I have 4 months left on the warranty and it has paid for itself 4 or 5 times over
Will have to decide at the expiry if we keep the car or renew the policy. No warranty will be a scary proposition,
#22
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Happy you got it sorted Tom.
I will chime in on my solution now that Tom has come back with his.
(didn't want to hijack his thread) Since we had similar problems no sense in starting another thread.
They changed my DCCV and the CCM, everything is working fine...BUT yesterday when I got the car home and decided to detail it, after being shut down and keys pulled and put in my pocket 30-45 minutes had passed I heard the blower fan going full tilt???? The car was asleep prior to this??? Called the dealer and they said bring it back.
Left it overnight expecting a dead battery today from the fan coming on but it was fine.
I will see how it goes over the weekend, it might have only done it one or maybe I just caught it once. we shall see, any way it is going back. Maybe like Tom suggested it needs to be programmed or tweaked or just a bad CCM It was a brand new unit.
Dealers invoice for DCCV, CCM a gas door actuator and labor was $2119.00
My deductible on Easy Care is $100.00 .
I have 4 months left on the warranty and it has paid for itself 4 or 5 times over
Will have to decide at the expiry if we keep the car or renew the policy. No warranty will be a scary proposition,
I will chime in on my solution now that Tom has come back with his.
(didn't want to hijack his thread) Since we had similar problems no sense in starting another thread.
They changed my DCCV and the CCM, everything is working fine...BUT yesterday when I got the car home and decided to detail it, after being shut down and keys pulled and put in my pocket 30-45 minutes had passed I heard the blower fan going full tilt???? The car was asleep prior to this??? Called the dealer and they said bring it back.
Left it overnight expecting a dead battery today from the fan coming on but it was fine.
I will see how it goes over the weekend, it might have only done it one or maybe I just caught it once. we shall see, any way it is going back. Maybe like Tom suggested it needs to be programmed or tweaked or just a bad CCM It was a brand new unit.
Dealers invoice for DCCV, CCM a gas door actuator and labor was $2119.00
My deductible on Easy Care is $100.00 .
I have 4 months left on the warranty and it has paid for itself 4 or 5 times over
Will have to decide at the expiry if we keep the car or renew the policy. No warranty will be a scary proposition,
My assumption and pure guess was be the upper radiator hose group that contains the thermostat. I had to replace the one that was leaking, but the thermostat is par of the assembly and they had to do all. That was a $525 charge and was consider a wear and tear item by warranty and I had to come out of pocket for that.
Did you check by sight the water level in plastic fill tank and do you smell any antifreeze from the front of the engine, although after a leak you might,even if there is no current leak. There is also a chance of a misreading sensor, but one of the more astute members of the forum would have to tell you which one.
The exact line on my invoice read "replaced valve and Climate Control Head Complete and Programed Complete" The 3 items replaced were the CC Head, Heater Control Valve and "valve-water" whatever that is. The total came to $2145.00. I had a gas door actuator done several months ago, as well.
Hope that helps and hijack away.
Tom in Dallas
#23
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If you are getting heating and cooling and the CCM from all the various things it is doing seems to be working correctly on everything, I would think the problem lies elsewhere. I am in Dallas and under any situation never had the cooling fans run at all after I stopped the car and that includes weeks of temps above 105.
My assumption and pure guess was be the upper radiator hose group that contains the thermostat. I had to replace the one that was leaking, but the thermostat is par of the assembly and they had to do all. That was a $525 charge and was consider a wear and tear item by warranty and I had to come out of pocket for that.
Did you check by sight the water level in plastic fill tank and do you smell any antifreeze from the front of the engine, although after a leak you might,even if there is no current leak. There is also a chance of a misreading sensor, but one of the more astute members of the forum would have to tell you which one.
The exact line on my invoice read "replaced valve and Climate Control Head Complete and Programed Complete" The 3 items replaced were the CC Head, Heater Control Valve and "valve-water" whatever that is. The total came to $2145.00. I had a gas door actuator done several months ago, as well.
Hope that helps and hijack away.
Tom in Dallas
My assumption and pure guess was be the upper radiator hose group that contains the thermostat. I had to replace the one that was leaking, but the thermostat is par of the assembly and they had to do all. That was a $525 charge and was consider a wear and tear item by warranty and I had to come out of pocket for that.
Did you check by sight the water level in plastic fill tank and do you smell any antifreeze from the front of the engine, although after a leak you might,even if there is no current leak. There is also a chance of a misreading sensor, but one of the more astute members of the forum would have to tell you which one.
The exact line on my invoice read "replaced valve and Climate Control Head Complete and Programed Complete" The 3 items replaced were the CC Head, Heater Control Valve and "valve-water" whatever that is. The total came to $2145.00. I had a gas door actuator done several months ago, as well.
Hope that helps and hijack away.
Tom in Dallas
To clarify my post better, the blower that came on is the heat/AC blower inside the car. I know sometimes the engine blower/fan will come on with the car shutdown but I have never heard of an AC/heater fan blowing once the car is off and keys removed after 30-40 minutes....seems very odd to me.
#24
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Thanks for the advice Tom, I will look at those areas you mention.
To clarify my post better, the blower that came on is the heat/AC blower inside the car. I know sometimes the engine blower/fan will come on with the car shutdown but I have never heard of an AC/heater fan blowing once the car is off and keys removed after 30-40 minutes....seems very odd to me.
To clarify my post better, the blower that came on is the heat/AC blower inside the car. I know sometimes the engine blower/fan will come on with the car shutdown but I have never heard of an AC/heater fan blowing once the car is off and keys removed after 30-40 minutes....seems very odd to me.
No- that does not make sense. Sounds like some sort of short and I can't even imagine there is any power to those modules with the ignition off. That sounds more than weird.
Tom
#25
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#27
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So if I understand your correctly the system reads that there is excessive moisture in the system (I assuming the accumulator bag) and the blower will turn on automatically to clear it. So this may be happening and we will never know it? I often have the situation that I come out in the morning or after several hours and turn on the car with the ac on and my glasses fog up for a second, due to moisture in the system- Interesting!
Tom in Dallas
Tom in Dallas
#28
#29
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I think there is some confusion about this term "Moisture in the system".
The dryer/accumulator does have a bag of desiccant inside it. This is what the freon passes thru as it cycles around and around the evaporator/condenser circuit. This moisture is inside the A/C system and can't be removed without pulling a vacuum on the A/C system.
What your seeing with fogging glasses and windows is just the moisture that inside the car. You can reduce this by running the A/C.
I don't think the interior fans should run at all after the key it turned off. No mention of this in the JTIS and it's not been reported before. If you find out the problem please post back so we can learn a bit.
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The dryer/accumulator does have a bag of desiccant inside it. This is what the freon passes thru as it cycles around and around the evaporator/condenser circuit. This moisture is inside the A/C system and can't be removed without pulling a vacuum on the A/C system.
What your seeing with fogging glasses and windows is just the moisture that inside the car. You can reduce this by running the A/C.
I don't think the interior fans should run at all after the key it turned off. No mention of this in the JTIS and it's not been reported before. If you find out the problem please post back so we can learn a bit.
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#30
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I think there is some confusion about this term "Moisture in the system".
The dryer/accumulator does have a bag of desiccant inside it. This is what the freon passes thru as it cycles around and around the evaporator/condenser circuit. This moisture is inside the A/C system and can't be removed without pulling a vacuum on the A/C system.
What your seeing with fogging glasses and windows is just the moisture that inside the car. You can reduce this by running the A/C.
I don't think the interior fans should run at all after the key it turned off. No mention of this in the JTIS and it's not been reported before. If you find out the problem please post back so we can learn a bit.
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.
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The dryer/accumulator does have a bag of desiccant inside it. This is what the freon passes thru as it cycles around and around the evaporator/condenser circuit. This moisture is inside the A/C system and can't be removed without pulling a vacuum on the A/C system.
What your seeing with fogging glasses and windows is just the moisture that inside the car. You can reduce this by running the A/C.
I don't think the interior fans should run at all after the key it turned off. No mention of this in the JTIS and it's not been reported before. If you find out the problem please post back so we can learn a bit.
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Correct me if I am wrong, but it appears that on the S-types from about 2002 up and the XJ and the X-type, that minus (perhaps even with) the NAV System- that the same module is used in all for the Climate Control Head. So on my work order/bill it indicates programming took place- is that is what is done to get each module to work with the specific module Jag?? If not programmed or programmed correctly , then could not the problem that MYBLACKCAT is having?? Just a wild guess.
Tom in Dallas
#31
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It's not moisture inside the A/C system. Any moisture you see or feel is already in the car. You might be surprised to see how high the humidity is in Dallas!
Think about it a minute? Of course you don't see any moisture when you get in a hot car. You turn on the A/C which drops the temperature. Cold air can't hold as much moisture as hot air. So you have the same amount of moisture it's just the temperature change that causes the fogging.
No the navigation cars use a RCCM (Remote Climate Control Module) while the non-nav cars use a CCM. They do not interchange. The RCCM "seems" to be a bit more resistant to getting burned out by a bad DCCV but we really don't know.
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Think about it a minute? Of course you don't see any moisture when you get in a hot car. You turn on the A/C which drops the temperature. Cold air can't hold as much moisture as hot air. So you have the same amount of moisture it's just the temperature change that causes the fogging.
No the navigation cars use a RCCM (Remote Climate Control Module) while the non-nav cars use a CCM. They do not interchange. The RCCM "seems" to be a bit more resistant to getting burned out by a bad DCCV but we really don't know.
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#32
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It's not moisture inside the A/C system. Any moisture you see or feel is already in the car. You might be surprised to see how high the humidity is in Dallas!
Think about it a minute? Of course you don't see any moisture when you get in a hot car. You turn on the A/C which drops the temperature. Cold air can't hold as much moisture as hot air. So you have the same amount of moisture it's just the temperature change that causes the fogging.
No the navigation cars use a RCCM (Remote Climate Control Module) while the non-nav cars use a CCM. They do not interchange. The RCCM "seems" to be a bit more resistant to getting burned out by a bad DCCV but we really don't know.
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Think about it a minute? Of course you don't see any moisture when you get in a hot car. You turn on the A/C which drops the temperature. Cold air can't hold as much moisture as hot air. So you have the same amount of moisture it's just the temperature change that causes the fogging.
No the navigation cars use a RCCM (Remote Climate Control Module) while the non-nav cars use a CCM. They do not interchange. The RCCM "seems" to be a bit more resistant to getting burned out by a bad DCCV but we really don't know.
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Tom in Dallas
#33
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I think there is some confusion about this term "Moisture in the system".
The dryer/accumulator does have a bag of desiccant inside it. This is what the freon passes thru as it cycles around and around the evaporator/condenser circuit. This moisture is inside the A/C system and can't be removed without pulling a vacuum on the A/C system.
What your seeing with fogging glasses and windows is just the moisture that inside the car. You can reduce this by running the A/C.
I don't think the interior fans should run at all after the key it turned off. No mention of this in the JTIS and it's not been reported before. If you find out the problem please post back so we can learn a bit.
.
.
.
The dryer/accumulator does have a bag of desiccant inside it. This is what the freon passes thru as it cycles around and around the evaporator/condenser circuit. This moisture is inside the A/C system and can't be removed without pulling a vacuum on the A/C system.
What your seeing with fogging glasses and windows is just the moisture that inside the car. You can reduce this by running the A/C.
I don't think the interior fans should run at all after the key it turned off. No mention of this in the JTIS and it's not been reported before. If you find out the problem please post back so we can learn a bit.
.
.
.
Now I will over simplify things... The AC system in both your car and home are basically pretty simple. A compressor circulates a fluid that is great at transferring heat (IE it gets cold). Air is passed over a very cold coil that causes the air to drop in temperature and condenses moisture. Much like a glass of ice water on a hot summer day gets all wet. This water drips out of the system and is seen as a puddle under your car... Or the tube that drains on your central air unit.... or the dripping water coming out of the back of your window unit.
The fogging of windows or glasses is left over moisture in the drain pan that is blown into the car when you first turn it on. This is something I've accepted as normal in many cars that I've had. As long as it clears up quickly. Now, when it starts to stink like rotten socks, that is when I actually go through the trouble of tearing stuff apart.. and every time it is a slow or clogged drain that isn't letting the water out causing the problem. Problem is almost all manufacturers bury that part deep in the dash. It would be nice if they put them in an accessible place for frequent cleaning...
Now the climate control running is something worth looking into. Like others have said, I've not heard of it running after shutdown. But, it may in an attempt to clear out any residual moisture... but that too sounds strange since the compressor is not running after shutdown.
#34
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I would agree there, but what do I know. If there is a document that shows the circuit can run, it would surely be useful.
Just one of the quotes in this... I think that this thread is over complicating things.
Now I will over simplify things... The AC system in both your car and home are basically pretty simple. A compressor circulates a fluid that is great at transferring heat (IE it gets cold). Air is passed over a very cold coil that causes the air to drop in temperature and condenses moisture. Much like a glass of ice water on a hot summer day gets all wet. This water drips out of the system and is seen as a puddle under your car... Or the tube that drains on your central air unit.... or the dripping water coming out of the back of your window unit.
The fogging of windows or glasses is left over moisture in the drain pan that is blown into the car when you first turn it on. This is something I've accepted as normal in many cars that I've had. As long as it clears up quickly. Now, when it starts to stink like rotten socks, that is when I actually go through the trouble of tearing stuff apart.. and every time it is a slow or clogged drain that isn't letting the water out causing the problem. Problem is almost all manufacturers bury that part deep in the dash. It would be nice if they put them in an accessible place for frequent cleaning...
Now the climate control running is something worth looking into. Like others have said, I've not heard of it running after shutdown. But, it may in an attempt to clear out any residual moisture... but that too sounds strange since the compressor is not running after shutdown.
Just one of the quotes in this... I think that this thread is over complicating things.
Now I will over simplify things... The AC system in both your car and home are basically pretty simple. A compressor circulates a fluid that is great at transferring heat (IE it gets cold). Air is passed over a very cold coil that causes the air to drop in temperature and condenses moisture. Much like a glass of ice water on a hot summer day gets all wet. This water drips out of the system and is seen as a puddle under your car... Or the tube that drains on your central air unit.... or the dripping water coming out of the back of your window unit.
The fogging of windows or glasses is left over moisture in the drain pan that is blown into the car when you first turn it on. This is something I've accepted as normal in many cars that I've had. As long as it clears up quickly. Now, when it starts to stink like rotten socks, that is when I actually go through the trouble of tearing stuff apart.. and every time it is a slow or clogged drain that isn't letting the water out causing the problem. Problem is almost all manufacturers bury that part deep in the dash. It would be nice if they put them in an accessible place for frequent cleaning...
Now the climate control running is something worth looking into. Like others have said, I've not heard of it running after shutdown. But, it may in an attempt to clear out any residual moisture... but that too sounds strange since the compressor is not running after shutdown.
The left over moisture in the drain pan, I will agree with and somewhere there is a TSB about those types of smells coming from the AC when you turn it on. The only point I was making was that there may well be some moisture in the system, but I have never heard of the AC blower coming on when the car is shut down and run for a period of time and then stop. Obviously if it ran the whole time while the engine was off and on- that is one thing, but an intermittent running with the engine shut off is not normal.
If he is still having the problem, I would try turning off the unit when he shuts off the4 car and then see if it still happens. If it never occurs under that condition, then he has isolated the problem.
Tom
#35
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Update
I could not get the car in before leaving for vacation
By the time I get back at it 9 days will have passed
My thoughts are after this much time if the blower has run daily the battery should be dead
I will give an update again when we get home
If anyone can locate old threads that cover this topic please copy this thread
It would be much appreciated
Thanks
I could not get the car in before leaving for vacation
By the time I get back at it 9 days will have passed
My thoughts are after this much time if the blower has run daily the battery should be dead
I will give an update again when we get home
If anyone can locate old threads that cover this topic please copy this thread
It would be much appreciated
Thanks
#36
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Update
I could not get the car in before leaving for vacation
By the time I get back at it 9 days will have passed
My thoughts are after this much time if the blower has run daily the battery should be dead
I will give an update again when we get home
If anyone can locate old threads that cover this topic please copy this thread
It would be much appreciated
Thanks
I could not get the car in before leaving for vacation
By the time I get back at it 9 days will have passed
My thoughts are after this much time if the blower has run daily the battery should be dead
I will give an update again when we get home
If anyone can locate old threads that cover this topic please copy this thread
It would be much appreciated
Thanks
Here is an answer i found online.
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Jaguar: The a/c blower goes on by itself a few minutes
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Customer Question
The a/c blower goes on by itself a few minutes after my 2007 type s jaguar is turned off. It will only stop if the fuse is removed. Why?
Country: United States
Make: Jaguar
Model: S-Type
Year: 2007
Already Tried:
Disconnecting the negative battery cable and then reconnecting. Also, running the a/c in various modes, turning it off, Turning off the ignition. Few minutes later with the ignition off the blower goes on.
Submitted: 382 days and 12 hours ago.
Category: Jaguar
Value: $30
Status: CLOSED
Expert: Richard replied 382 days and 10 hours ago.
Hello and welcome to justanswer.com
How long will the blower stay on for? Are you in a very hot climate?
Customer replied 382 days and 2 hours ago.
The blower will not go off on it's own. If you start the car it stops and the a/c works fine. We are in a hot climate (90+ during the day). Right now have the blower fuse out.
This problem apparently began two days ago, since the battery was completely drained when I got into the car yesterday am ( it must have been on until the battery gave out); had to jump it off and went to the dealer. The battery was tested and found bad and was replaced. After leaving, went to my office for about 1 hour; when leaving, realized that the blower was on the whole time. When I got home, the same thing happened. Took out the fuse.
Forgot to mention this. When you turn off the a/c, before cutting the engine, the blower kicks on about 5 minutes after the engine is off. If blower is on when entering the car, it will stop once started.
Customer replied 381 days and 21 hours ago.
Anything yet?
Expert: Richard replied 380 days and 20 hours ago.
Lets remove the blower motor relay which is R7 in the rear fuse box in the trunk next to the battery. It is possible we have a blower motor issue but lets try the relay first.
Customer replied 379 days and 21 hours ago.
The relay was burned and had to be pryed out. Went to the Jag service this am. They said the fuse box needs to be replaced. Until the fuse box is removed, they won't know what caused the problem. What do you think about this? Your answer was correct; hope it's just the fuse box.
Accepted Answer
Expert: Richard replied 379 days and 18 hours ago.
I think the issue may be with the blower motor itself unless there is signs of water inside the trunk and fuse box. I am glad we were able to find the cause of the problem. Keep me posted on this.
#38
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I have information on the replacement of the DCCV and in the newer models a way to repair your control unit if needed along with a trouble shooting procedure. Link JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource I hope this helps.
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