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Cambo's S-Type V6 Mystery Project

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  #21  
Old 06-11-2014, 08:23 PM
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Personally Cameron, I think the car looks pretty damn good for age and mileage.....


Knowing you, even as a daily run around, you'll end up making it look the best it can in short order.


Best


Jim
 
  #22  
Old 06-12-2014, 10:45 AM
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Aye, mine is pretty much the same but decent mechanically which means nothing's actually fallen off yet!!

Rather than 10 metre / 20ft test I prefer the addage She looks good from far but definitely far from good.

I've seen much worse for sale this side of the pond.
 
  #23  
Old 06-13-2014, 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Cambo351
Something like this?



I see something like this on the horizon, 2JZ-GTE? Maybe? LOL

I believe that's a 1jz. I've seen that car on Craigslist in Orlando, very interesting honestly but they wanted a lot more than I could have spent on another car haha.


I love that you picked up this car just because it was cheap and plan to getting correct again, that's why I bought the xk8 I have now. If I could, I'd buy every Jag I could find for under 2k and fix it up haha. Good luck with the project.
 
  #24  
Old 06-21-2014, 08:29 PM
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Yeah that one in Orlando is a 1JZ, but as one of the local Supra guys pointed out "if a 1JZ fits, then a 2JZ will fit too" so that'll be the long-term plan.

List of things to do is slowly getting smaller.

I ripped out the cloudy (and leaking) electrochromatic rear view mirror and replaced it with a generic $25 manual mirror from the local auto parts place. Unbelievably it just clipped onto the original metal plate on the windscreen. I opened up the old mirror and there was the "dragons blood" inside, it was pooled up in the bottom of the housing and was just starting to weep out. Lucky....

Replaced the passenger side mirror so that's looking good now too. And a few of the interior bits that were letting the car down; new cupholder, replaced the missing plastic cap from one of the seatbelts, re-glued the fabric on the a-pillars.

I guess the thing with this car is making sure that stuff you can see from the drivers seat is in order, then I care less about the scratches on the outside....LOL

Shock bushes next week, and hopefully a drain/flush/fill of the transmission fluid while it's up on the hoist. Fingers crossed that sorts the gearbox....may as well try the cheap option first...
 
  #25  
Old 06-22-2014, 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Justink201
I believe that's a 1jz. I've seen that car on Craigslist in Orlando, very interesting honestly but they wanted a lot more than I could have spent on another car haha.


I love that you picked up this car just because it was cheap and plan to getting correct again, that's why I bought the xk8 I have now. If I could, I'd buy every Jag I could find for under 2k and fix it up haha. Good luck with the project.
I know, right? Seems Florida is where old Jags come to die. Or is it just their elderly owners. LOL.
 
  #26  
Old 06-22-2014, 11:06 PM
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I think its both Tommy haha
 
  #27  
Old 12-23-2014, 08:52 PM
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Right, time for an update on this thing.

The original plans (dreams?) of dropping in a 2JZ with ebay-spec turbo/manifolds is out the window, we recently bought a house and as such we are broke. No spare money to waste on this thing. So the goal now is get it driving properly, get the registration changed over to NSW (a WA registered POS is not worth much in NSW) and then sell it off.

Selling it as is will be difficult, and to scrap it will be effectively giving it away.

So time to get through the list.

I bought the headlight repair kit a while back, will rip the the front bumper off and rebuild the headlights.

I bought a Shift Technology Products 5R55W/N/S kit, along with a pan gasket & filter (Ryco RTK135), some solenoid block gaskets, and 6 litres of Penrite Mercon V fluid. I'll put the car up on stands next week & drop the tranny pan, and put as much of the Shift kit in as possible.

While it's up on stands i'll check out the front suspension; I suspect that the lower shock bushes are shot, so will remove the shocks & get some new bushes pressed in. I also have a feeling that the left hand lower ball joint might be on it's way out, so if need be i'll get an exchange vertical link and drop it in. If the wishbone itself is shot then I'll have to weigh up if it's worth carrying on or not.

While we're at it, new oil filter & oil, and replace the crappy clamps on the thermostat housing which are leaking.

If the transmission is resolved with this kit then it'll be a new windscreen, new window tint & then off for an inspection to get the NSW registration.

Let's see how we go...
 
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  #28  
Old 12-24-2014, 08:19 AM
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>then sell it off.

Sad, it's been very enjoyable reading about your efforts to "recover" this lost S-Type.

Thanks for the tale
================================================== =
You dreamed of a big star
he played a mean guitar
He loved to drive his Jaguar...

So welcome to the machine
 
  #29  
Old 12-24-2014, 09:32 AM
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Wow, I just read this thread, Cambo, best of luck in your quest to get everything fixed!

And I thought my car's issues were annoying, you just made me feel alot better, not to mention inspired to fix my petty issues!

Hope your car will be soon purring like a kitten!
 
  #30  
Old 01-04-2015, 11:26 PM
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Alright we are getting somewhere.



List of things to do...



Up on stands, front end stripped off...



Headlights out, my 3000 grit wet+dry will be here on Wednesday, so will pull them apart tomorrow.



Passenger side upper balljoint - shot...





Passenger side lower balljoint - shot



Passenger side tie rod end - not looking too flash...



Lower shock bush - looks ok but noisy



Passenger side rear wishbone bush appears ok



Drivers side upper balljoint - shot



Anti-roll-bar links, also not the best



Drivers side lower shock bush, looks ok but will be changed.

Worse than I hoped for, but not as bad as it could be....

Exchange passenger side vertical link will be $275
Pair of aftermarket top wishbones $180
Lower shock bushes $50 each and the guys will fit them for me if I bring in the shocks

Not sure about the tie rod ends, I think i'll leave them since it's not as big a job, if they have to be done later...

Haven't even started on the rest of the list yet...
 
  #31  
Old 01-05-2015, 12:14 AM
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Not meaning to get personal Cameron but have you kept tabs on what the cheapest S has now cost? Not including the hours you have spent on it.

Or are we better off not knowing?
 
  #32  
Old 01-05-2015, 01:24 AM
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I kind of stopped counting when the big bill for the wishbone & vertical link came & I had no choice but to take it to a workshop...if the timing had been better that would have been $800 instead of $1600 had I had the time/space to do it myself...

What do you count in the costs? Tyres? Registration? Oil? some things are going to cost regardless of the vehicle...

Thermostat $30
Coolant $50
Air Filter $28
Engine Oil $40
Windscreen Wipers $50
Door lock $170
Rear View Mirror Internal $25
Rear View Mirror External $70
New cupholder and replacement seatbelt cap $80
Shifter Cable $130
Tyres $532
Matching spare alloy $80
Vertical Link & Wishbone $1600 (should have been $800!!)
Two new keys incl cutting $250
One new remote $80
Trans Shift Kit & Gaskets $225
Trans filter & gasket $60
Trans Fluid $60
Headlight Repair Kit $80
Engine Oil $40
Oil Filter $14
Cabin Filter $30
Hose clamps $15

And yet to come;

Front upper wishbones $180
Vertical Link $275
Shock Bushes $100

And then new tint, new windscreen... it all adds up, which is probably why I stopped counting....

But, this thing kept me mobile while the XJR was off the road for nearly 3 months so it's definitely been useful to have around...
 

Last edited by Cambo; 01-05-2015 at 02:05 AM. Reason: Forgot stuff
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  #33  
Old 01-05-2015, 03:37 AM
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That's really not so bad. Oils and filters are just consumables. Looks like just the BIG one,tyres too are just a something cars need like rego.

And as you say it is of use to you. You would have to factor in transport of it too I guess then the value adding for any sale price should make a return for you.
 
  #34  
Old 01-05-2015, 04:17 AM
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That list so far comes to $4300 including the suspension bits i'm about to do.

If I get it registered in NSW that will be another $1000

Then new tint probably $300, and a new windscreen I don't know, hopefully there are aftermarket options for the S-Type...$600?

What's this car worth though? I mean realistically even once i've sorted it out, trying to find a buyer at a good price won't be easy...
 
  #35  
Old 01-05-2015, 04:50 AM
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So $6500 ish
It should sound good in an Ad. NSW slips and reg,new tyres etc etc...

You have a good camera and using your 10 metre photoshop it will look the goods. Depend if your factoring a profit margin in too. Sounds doable. Just don't look at Graysonline,they have been pretty regular on there for some reason,but they make that money.
 
  #36  
Old 01-05-2015, 05:16 AM
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Those numbers don't include what I paid for the car in the first place! It's $4300 on top of what I paid plus the rego, plus, plus, plus...

No way I will make a profit on this thing...

There's a few for sale at the moment close by....

*** JAGUAR S-TYPE *** | Cars, Vans & Utes | Gumtree Australia The Hills District - Baulkham Hills | 1065964885

2002 Jaguar S Type SPORT sedan | Cars, Vans & Utes | Gumtree Australia New South Wales - Newcastle Region | 1066600203

2001 Jaguar S Type Sedan Excellent Condition | Cars, Vans & Utes | Gumtree Australia Wollongong Area - Unanderra | 1063525323

But the mileage on mine is epic compared to them...

Those guys asking $13500 for that one in Newcastle are dreaming, but it's got the same wheels as mine, and less than half the mileage...

I hope a serious buyer could pay $8K for mine, after all they can see what they are getting, and the pile of receipts to go with it... and i'm not a shonky used car salesman...
 
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  #37  
Old 01-06-2015, 01:04 AM
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Well i've got the valve body off the tranny, what a messy job, i've been through three rolls of paper towel, it just kept coming & coming...

So I'm sure that the pan had not been off before. With 230'000kms / 143'000mls here's what the magnet looks like. I wiped the top bit with my finger to see how thick the metal powder was...



There was also a bit settled in the bottom of the pan.



Not really filings, very much like a powder



Is this good, bad or normal for a transmission with that many miles on it unopened?

I have not touched the insides of an autobox before, so breaking new ground here...



With the pan and the filter off, everything looks OK?

I read some of the other threads where people mentioned how hard it was to get the 10mm nut off the electrical connector. Well, I have a secret weapon...





Not that hard, took a few minutes at the most...

So now this is where i'm at...



And i'm stuck...this "shift kit" does not include all the springs that we want to change...

Here's the instructions:



Compared to the list of Sonnax springs



So it only has the 3-4 prestroke spring S1 (which wasn't even broken!!) and the S4 TCC modulator spring.

I really want to change all the springs I can, especially the S6 Forward Engagement Spring because this trans was real slow in engaging drive from N or R...

So now I have to find the rest of the springs...they come in packs of 5, has anyone on the forum bought some and got leftovers??? Help!!!!
 
  #38  
Old 01-06-2015, 12:44 PM
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I would say that it looks pretty good for the miles. I always get some fur off the magnet.

With that many miles are you going to do the case bore servo repair?

Ford Servo Bore Transmission Fix Solution - Ford Lincoln Mercury Explorer Mountaineer Navigator Servo Bore Fix

I like that they now have a fix that does not require removing the transmission to bore the case. They now machine some added O-ring grooves to help control the oil.

Are going with a new/rebuilt valve body or staying with what you have?
.
.
.
 
  #39  
Old 01-06-2015, 06:04 PM
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I want to get this car back on the road as cheap as possible.

The plan was to put in the shift kit (and now, the set of Sonnax springs) and fingers crossed that solved the problem.

But when I took out the 3-4 prestroke spring, it wasn't broken...so now i'm a bit concerned that there are other issues with this transmission...

Symptoms of the problem are:

P0731: 1st gear incorrect ratio (not sure what's causing this)
P0734: 4th gear incorrect ratio (should have been the 3-4 prestroke spring, but i wasn't broken)
Slow to engage drive from N or R (should be the S6 Forward Engagement Spring)
Car starts off in 2nd only, from what I can tell
Shifting from 3rd to 4th (i think) is with a thump and vibration
Very slow kickdown at >1/2 throttle

I was thinking that I should change the solenoid pack as well but there are no codes for the solenoids...

Would the case bore wear be a cause for any of the problems listed above?

EDIT

I found a local supplier who can give me 1x each of all six springs for $82 will pick them up tomorrow.

This hasn't been a fun job so i'm not keen to do it again. Suggestions are welcome.
 
  #40  
Old 01-06-2015, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Cambo351
I want to get this car back on the road as cheap as possible. The plan was to put in the shift kit (and now, the set of Sonnax springs) and fingers crossed that solved the problem. But when I took out the 3-4 prestroke spring, it wasn't broken...so now i'm a bit concerned that there are other issues with this transmission... Symptoms of the problem are: P0731: 1st gear incorrect ratio (not sure what's causing this) P0734: 4th gear incorrect ratio (should have been the 3-4 prestroke spring, but i wasn't broken) Slow to engage drive from N or R (should be the S6 Forward Engagement Spring) Car starts off in 2nd only, from what I can tell Shifting from 3rd to 4th (i think) is with a thump and vibration Very slow kickdown at >1/2 throttle I was thinking that I should change the solenoid pack as well but there are no codes for the solenoids... Would the case bore wear be a cause for any of the problems listed above? EDIT I found a local supplier who can give me 1x each of all six springs for $82 will pick them up tomorrow. This hasn't been a fun job so i'm not keen to do it again. Suggestions are welcome.
Was the gear shift cable checked for stretching prior to trans removal?

A stretched (or mis-adjusted) shift cable could be a culprit here based on your description of issues above and is a rather common fault in the 00-02 S Types. Just my $0.02
 


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