Hi, I don't see a bleeder pipe nr the master cylinder. Just the plastic bleed screw on the expansion tank. It's full of coolant but I've no heat. The supercharger came off recently to replace two knock sensors and the weak pipe that sits under it in the V replaced. I don't want to take it back if I don't need to, can anyone tell me how to bleed a 2002 STR RHD please?

 

Your post is a bit confusing what with mentioning master cylinder and expansion tank.

Are bleeding brakes or your cooling system?

 

Yes it's hidden up by the master cylinder and maybe hard to see but it's there. Stand at the front of the car with the hood open and look to the right of the master cylinder. Now note there are differences depending on if your car is RHD or LHD plus if it's a V-8 or V-6. So you may have one there or you may not. My old 2005 STR did have this.

I stole this picture from another thread and should help so you know what it looks like?
Hard to see but there is a slot in the middle so you can use a flat head screw driver to crack the valve open letting air out. Let it run a bit and dribble some coolant out too. It "may" take a few heat/cool cycles to get all the air out as bubbles seem to collect a bit up by that bleed hose.




The full thread is here if you want to take a look?
Coolant Drain and Fill

What I did back then was to fill it and cycle the car for a couple of days from hot to cold and that bleeds the air out fine. Keep the coolant topped up between cycles.

I just got a vacuum filler and can really recommend one as they are not expensive at around $50-$80 with dozens to chose from. Now it's one and done. No bubbles and maybe a slight bit of coolant added but not much. It is strange to see all the coolant hoses collapsed from the vacuum!
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If a Jaguar specialist replaced the hose under the supercharger, then hopefully they also bled the cooling system.

The 'no heat' is a different issue that may indicate a faulty Dual Climate Control Valve (DCCV), or control panel.

Refer to Karl's comprehensive diagnosis thread to determine the cause of having no heat inside the vehicle:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ol-how-185002/

 

HI, mine is a 2002 RHD and i cannot for the life of me find that bleed valve on the end of the pipe up nr the bulkhead as shown in your images. Where is the heating bleed location please, is it the tap I can't find?

 

Please work through the troubleshooting guide, linked in an earlier message. Specifically, work through post #2 to test the Dual Climate Control Valve (DCCV). This valve has a high failure rate. The module has two valves, each spring-loaded to the open (maximum heating) position. The logic is to provide heat to the defroster for safety in case of an electrical failure. No heat is obviously the opposite, so I'm not sure what's happening.

Also work through post #6 in the guide, which covers low or no heat. It has a few specific things to check, such as coolant temperature. If the engine is running cool, you won't feel much (if any heat) Don't rely on the dash gauge to accurately indicate coolant temp, as from approximately 180-230F, the needle remains centered. I recommend using an infrared thermometer (very inexpensive nowadays) to measure the temperature at the radiator inlet (upper hose).

How much have you driven the car since the repairs? There's an elaborate official procedure to bleed air from the cooling system. However, the system is self-bleeding to some extent, but that requires several drive cycles and you must be VERY careful not to let the engine get hot.* You can also expect to top off the coolant for several cycles until the self-bleed is complete.

Also, at idle the heater performance is marginal at best, due to low coolant flow. V8 models have an auxiliary coolant pump to help. Have you checked its operation? Put all that together, and if you haven't driven the car much after repairs, you may not have much heat at first.

Since your car is a 2002 model (2002.5?), this would be a very early supercharged application. It wouldn't surprise me to learn early SC models didn't have this elusive bleed screw you're trying to find.

*Maybe somebody more in the know can advise if this non-official self-bleeding procedure is advisable on SC engines.

 

I think Karl is on to the problem? You have a very early STR and from what I have seen they kind of used parts from both generations.
So you might not have that bleed hose. Of course I don't understand how Jaguar expects you to bleed the system if it's not there?

When I had my 2005 STR I also just cycled the car from hot to cold over a week or so and it self bled fine. So do some more driving?
Things might settle down?
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I've never seen the bleed hose either. I burp mine repeatedly with the reservoir cap and that works pretty well.
Now the inter cooler system which shares to the same reservoir I bleed with the bleed screw on the inter cooler with a towel to catch any spillage.
But that should self bleed anyway.

 

Hi all and thanks for your help 😊 So I've 'burped' the car on an incline. Opened the heating to Hi and had the blower on 1bar. Then burped it for 30 mins on tickover. It was still pushing air out when I had to go get the kids. I've got a thermometer to test the temp on the main hose and also the DCCV and will do this tomorrow. I drove again for a few miles cycling the heating from cold to hot over and over ( been doing that for a week so far hoping for heat)

with no luck. I'm a bit worried it's not been bled properly and I'm hoping the SC has been bled and replaced correctly. I wouldn't know where to start I've just put my faith in the mechanic. I did take it back a couple of weeks ago and he said he had bled the car again fixing the heating but I got it 5 miles down the road, put the heating on and nothing... Had no time to return it right at that moment so here I am...

This feels like it all began with the knock sensor replacement, ive had nothing but issues since. The heating, now another code, the cat not in tolerance ( I forget the code) he changed a sensor. It disappeared for a week but came back yesterday...

 

Do you have a scanner to read coolant temperature?

If not, what is the temperature gauge showing during all this? From approximately 180-230 F, the needle is parked at the middle. But when starting from cold, you should see the needle rise until 180 is reached and the needle stops climbing. The only time the needle will rise higher is above 230. Ideally you should see the needle reach center and then stay there while driving.

If not seeing any hints of overheating, maybe a little bit of spirited driving may help. I'm not suggesting a 200 mile flog at top speed. Maybe just a couple of quick bursts of acceleration to blow out the cobwebs, so to speak. Pussyfooting around the neighborhood may not be enough, if that's what you've been doing. Remember heater performance is marginal at idle speed, too.

If the coolant temperature checks out normal, don't panic about the possibility of a failed DCCV. They have a very high failure rate. Not the end of the world if that's the case. See the previous posts about how to test it.

 

1. an OBD tool to read ECT costs from $5 up

2. ETM can show it

But will not show if coolant is circulating properly, though if the value increases to a sane max then all is likely well.

 

Its code P0420 but I digress. I'll run these tests in a bit and post

 

Oh - test your cat conv

Worth checking fuel trims as they may show what has been wrong perhaps for a while

 

Hi, I've tested the temps on the DCCV I'm getting 22 on the top pipes and 14 on the bottom at running temp after opening the heating from cold. I've bled from the taps on top of the engine and alot of air came out. But still, no heat.... The heat from the main feed from the radiator was at 71oc

 

Sam,

These numbers help a little bit, but you still haven't answered the question about how much you've driven the car since this recent work. Just a hunch, but as long as the engine is not running hot, I wonder if giving the engine a good workout will help expedite the self-bleeding process. You don't have to go full Grand Theft Auto, but I bet a few good acceleration runs will help. Leave the cabin temp at HI the whole time. Let the engine cool a few hours, top off the coolant level as needed, and repeat three or four more times.

 

Hi Karl. I've run it strong, blown out some cobwebs and its gulped some fluid. I have some heat coming from the left bank as I'm sat in the car, it was blowing cold on both banks. Not much but some, I've topped it up and ran it a 5 mile round trip taking the girls to school for a week with no improvement... I'll get it up to 70-80 for 5 min or so, short bursts. It is getting properly hot, Ive just looked in the header tank and its full and bled the top alan keys with no air escaping

 

Not sure what to suggest. As long as you're not seeing any signs of running hot, perhaps a few longer trips would help. With my '02 V6, it took about 3 or 4 daily commutes (26 miles each way) for everything to get back to normal.

Have you checked the operation of the auxiliary coolant pump yet? Without it, heater performance at low RPM is marginal at best.

 

I thought the same, but surely it'd blow hot at speed? And now blowing warmish on one side at full temperature... proper brass monkeys out now, not driving it as much as I'd like

 

Can you find the sweet spot where the heater consistently blows hot air? Maybe a certain RPM or throttle setting, who knows. But if you can duplicate those conditions and hold them as long as possible, that may encourage the self-bleeding process to purge air from the heater lines.