Moved car in driveway last night. everything was okay.

This morning I go to start the car, nothing. Dash was showing amber light, DSC Not Available, Parkbrake Fault, ABS Fault, Gearbox Fault.

Thought battery was dead, although I checked the other day and it was 12.35 vdc. Swapped with a spare that I think is OK, same thing, will not start.

( I don't have my voltmeter on me, its at work).

Still the battery, or could it be something else?

Of course its behind my wife's car and she has to drop off our son to daycare and get to work!

I can't even get it into Nuetral to move it out of the way.

Any ideas greatly appreciated! Thanks

 

Have you tried jumper cables with another vehicle?

What is age of battery? Most likely needs replacement.

 

Used two batteries, chargers, etc did all that. But thanks anyway.

 

Doesn't crank? or cranks but doesn't start.

Don't understand why you can't get to Neutral....solenoid maybe not releasing, which may explain partially if the former...maybe a glitch in the security system/module.

Your 3.0L hasn't been prone to the freeze-up some of the supercharged members have been experiencing in very cold weather after shutdown.

However, if the latter, we've seen that....I've seen that, on our 05 after a cold-start and shutdown....rapid cranking with no attempt to fire.

 

No crank at all

 

From the warning display messages, it sounds like the car thinks there's a low battery. Might want to examine the battery terminals, cables and grounds.

 

All of that looks okay. Looked at F27 fuse in engine compartment, thats ok.

Can't get car out of Park, with key in acc and on positions, and foot on brake pedal. When I have key to off, try to move shifter, makes a beeping noise, never noticed that before.

Awaiting tow, bringing it to a good local shop near me, we'll see what he finds...

Also, fwiw, the battery is two months old, and has been operating okay, everything works normally including the security system as far as arming, disarming, opening locks, etc.

 

Failed microswitch is on the list, brake and/or shift interlock

 

Thanks JagV8, I was thinking along those lines earlier. I was looking at the shifter, removed the wood cover/shift indicator panel, looked for a mechanical interlock to override and try and start car, but I couldn't find it.

I do hear a slight tick what sounds like a microswitch, don't know if its the one you might be talking about. Is the switch on the shifter itself or nearby it?

 

There's a way to override it but you have to take quite a bit of the centre console around the gearshift apart.

There are 2 switches on the brake pedal I gather, one is for the lights and one for the gear interlock if I've recalled them right. I expect the place who have the car will figure it out quickly.

If this has the ZF auto box then there are also 2 bolts for the shifter cable on the transmission side and if they work loose or fall out then the ZF thinks one thing and the rest of the car another. Easy to check.

 

I did some searching and Androulakis posted awhile back that the brake microswitch has two outputs, one for the brake lights ( of which go on and off), and one for the trans. He also explained where the interlock is, on the driver's side of the shifter after removing the wood panel/gate assembly. ( I didn't notice it earlier today)

Yes, I have the ZF 6HP26 box, and at every oil change I check those two bolts and they are always tight, and were checked about 4k miles ago, so it is definitely an electrical problem.

Perhaps the shifter interlock solenoid as well? I'll find out.

Still awaiting tow! I'd look at it, but its 20*F outside, and windy with temps to go to 2*F tonight, plus the damn thing is blocking the use of my wife's vehicle and my other car.

Better let the nice and warm, nearby shop look at it!

I will post results.

 

Oooh, that's COLD. Sometimes DIY just isn't viable

 

Update: Talked to garage this morning, the guy thinks its the computer.
I don't agree. He said he couldn't communicate with it, I couldn't connect with my OBDII tool either the other day, but I still don't think thats the problem.

The shifter and brake switches checked out ok, but he cant communicate with the ECM at all, and will check wiring going to it. All fuses ok too.

 

The PCM is almost never faulty - but it can happen. Wiring or related faults are far more common so that's a much better thing to check.

There are 2 computer networks into it (on your car) CAN and ISO 9141. It will talk on either if a suitable tool is used and so diagnosis is a bit easier for those in the know.

It may sound a bit like rocket science but these things are much the same on any modern car so techs should know.

 

Has the shop worked on Jaguars before?
They are a bit different sometimes.
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Small indy Ford shop, one man operation. He worked at a Jag dealership years ago.

Looks like ECM is no good, can't communicate with it, everything else checks out. ECM on order.

 

As JagV8 said it's very rare for a PCM to go bad so be sure and let us know if that fixes it.

Now this is rare too but a few people have reported water in the PCM. This is usually easy to tell because of dirt and water stains when you open the PCM.
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I'll be sure and give an update.

Its been particularly nasty here (NJ), weather wise. Snow, ice, large puddles, and alot of salt on the roads, plus my car is driven 350 miles a week in that mess!

 

UPDATE: Car is running again. Problem was the EMS control relay wiring. Black/white, green/blue, and green wires had breaks in them in the same area.

Front fascia had to be removed, and the problems were where the wires make a bend at the right hand side of the bumper area.

Car was in an accident years ago, and thats an area where it has hit, mechanic thinks those wires got pinched, etc at that point, then eventually got corroded and failed.

 

Good to know! Makes sense, too