Ceased Locking Nut on Jag S Type 2003
#1
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Hello Honourable Members,
One of my jag's locking nut has ceased, the outer case is just rotatingwithout turning the nut itself.
I've gone to several garages around but none seems eager to remove it. Lasttime I had one removed myself by chiselling, but that was a hard work and I don’twant to go down that route again. Is there any other way of going about it?
Some people have suggested that the following sockets-(7pc1/2 drive twist socket set / wheel lock nut remover / removal) could do thework, is it true? Please advise.
Thanks
#2
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You should have replaced all the crummy stock lug nuts after you had the first failure!!!
Most tire stores will have various sockets they hammer on the damaged lug nut to get them off. Don't go to a mechanic shop. Go to a tire shop.
When you do finally get it off replace ALL of them with stainless steel solid lug nuts. It's the only way to go and we have many threads on the forum about the different options.
My Dorman lug nuts work fine but are NOT SS. I wish they were!
.
.
.
Most tire stores will have various sockets they hammer on the damaged lug nut to get them off. Don't go to a mechanic shop. Go to a tire shop.
When you do finally get it off replace ALL of them with stainless steel solid lug nuts. It's the only way to go and we have many threads on the forum about the different options.
My Dorman lug nuts work fine but are NOT SS. I wish they were!
.
.
.
#3
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You should have replaced all the crummy stock lug nuts after you had the first failure!!!
Most tire stores will have various sockets they hammer on the damaged lug nut to get them off. Don't go to a mechanic shop. Go to a tire shop.
When you do finally get it off replace ALL of them with stainless steel solid lug nuts. It's the only way to go and we have many threads on the forum about the different options.
My Dorman lug nuts work fine but are NOT SS. I wish they were!
.
.
.
Most tire stores will have various sockets they hammer on the damaged lug nut to get them off. Don't go to a mechanic shop. Go to a tire shop.
When you do finally get it off replace ALL of them with stainless steel solid lug nuts. It's the only way to go and we have many threads on the forum about the different options.
My Dorman lug nuts work fine but are NOT SS. I wish they were!
.
.
.
#4
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The locking ones fail also but you are right I was mainly talking about the standard lug nuts. They have a sheet metal cover the decays with time and use. Then you are on the side of the road with a flat tire you can't remove!
Do you need the locking ones? I threw away all locking lug nuts years ago when the key stripped out trying to remove a locking lug nut. Had to weld a socket to the lock nut to get it off. Lucky I did not ruin a rim.
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Do you need the locking ones? I threw away all locking lug nuts years ago when the key stripped out trying to remove a locking lug nut. Had to weld a socket to the lock nut to get it off. Lucky I did not ruin a rim.
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#5
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Comrade Gibby (11-06-2013)
#9
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Comrade Gibby (11-06-2013)
#10
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Well, thanks very much, I'll go by the same old route so called barbaric method, chiselling. Once again thax. But be4 that, I saw these sockets below,can they help? Anyone has used them be4? Also please members, I want to change all nuts now please advise which ones can be used on s type 2003 (vin ending N03425) without damaging the rims.
Locking Wheel Nut Bolt Remover- JAGUAR E-Type, S-Type, X-Type LOST/ BROKEN KEY
![](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/attachments/s-type-s-type-r-supercharged-v8-x200-15/61576-ceased-locking-nut-jag-s-type-2003-max7yyppp3q78yqsr7gdola.jpg?dateline=1383761488)
Locking Wheel Nut Bolt Remover- JAGUAR E-Type, S-Type, X-Type LOST/ BROKEN KEY
![](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/attachments/s-type-s-type-r-supercharged-v8-x200-15/61577-ceased-locking-nut-jag-s-type-2003-s.gif?dateline=1383761488)
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Comrade Gibby (11-06-2013)
#12
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Ł33.45 for a tool you will never use again, I'd be breaking out the hammer and chisel.
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Comrade Gibby (11-06-2013)
#13
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Comrade Gibby (11-06-2013)
#14
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Comrade Gibby (11-06-2013)
#15
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I really apologise for opening another thread or post on the same issue or problem. I thought that was closed when I managed to chisel the first one on the front passenger side. That was a hard way to go, so I thought someone might have come up with some new ideas.
I've read most of the postings on wheel nuts but almost all of them talk about lug nuts andnot much on lock nuts. These lock nuts are a pain; I don’t know what the engineer who designed them was thinking.
Anyway, as I said earlier, orthodox method will eventually do the work. Thnks very much for you ideas.
I've read most of the postings on wheel nuts but almost all of them talk about lug nuts andnot much on lock nuts. These lock nuts are a pain; I don’t know what the engineer who designed them was thinking.
Anyway, as I said earlier, orthodox method will eventually do the work. Thnks very much for you ideas.
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Norri (11-06-2013)
#16
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Hello hon members,
I have managed to remove that lock nut. I tried to batter onto the lock nut a socket, the socket just split. So I had to go by the orthodox method- chiselling, it took me almost an hour or so to overcome the nut.
Now the problem is that I've damaged the first 3 lines of threads on the stud, the rest threads are fine. I tried to knock it out but it couldn't come out of the hub because of the limited space at the back. Now I’m contemplating of rethreading the stud. Could anyone please advise how I could go about it?
Hon members, I really appreciate you pieces of advice you have been throwing on this thread. Thanks very much.
I have managed to remove that lock nut. I tried to batter onto the lock nut a socket, the socket just split. So I had to go by the orthodox method- chiselling, it took me almost an hour or so to overcome the nut.
Now the problem is that I've damaged the first 3 lines of threads on the stud, the rest threads are fine. I tried to knock it out but it couldn't come out of the hub because of the limited space at the back. Now I’m contemplating of rethreading the stud. Could anyone please advise how I could go about it?
Hon members, I really appreciate you pieces of advice you have been throwing on this thread. Thanks very much.
#17
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Comrade Gibby (11-11-2013)
#18
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Dear Comrade Gibby,
Sorry for the late reply, haven't had much down time the last few days due to an urgent family matter. There seems to be a lot of confusion with UK vs. US terminology, the type of hardware, etc. Perhaps I can help and/or horribly muddy the waters.
First off, what kind of locking lug nuts (the US term) are we talking about? You mentioned the outer cover spinning, so I'm confused. There are only two types with which I'm familiar. Both are solid one piece nuts with a round exterior. One type has a specially-shaped recess on the end. A matching "key" fits in this recess and has hex flats for a wrench. The other type has randomly spaced slots around the otherwise smooth outside, and takes a special socket with matching raised ribs on the inside to fit the slots.
With both of these solid types, I think the removal tools mentioned should work. I couldn't see the inside, but if they look like this, you should be good. Hammer them on while applying torque with a breaker bar, and those internal spirals dig in and grab:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000I182FG?pc_redir=1
Heck, you could save the expense and try a huge pair of Vise-Grips. Or get in there with a handheld grinder and carefully grind flats on the round barrel so you can grab it with a regular socket.
However, since you mentioned the outer shell spinning, does that mean you have some other type on there? If so, they may be designed to resist those spiral removal sockets. In that case, I'd definitely try grinding if there's any room, to get down to the solid core so you could then grab it with those sockets, Vise-Grips, etc. If there's no room for a grinder, a small cut-off wheel in a Dremel tool may let you cut away that outer shell.
That may all be moot, however, if you've already removed them and are down to cleaning up the threads or replacing the wheel studs. If dealing with minor damage at the end, get a split die thread chaser:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009VH3EJC
That's a whole set, but I think you can get the individual pieces. The die splits in two so it can be installed below the damaged threads. Place a socket over the two pieces, clamping them together, and unthread the whole shooting match over the damaged threads. They work like magic to repair minor damage.
If you have to replace the studs, whatever you do, don't hammer them out. I searched for removal info, and nearly all the hits showed a mouth-breathing redneck in bib overalls, holding a big hammer. Wheel hubs just aren't designed to take that force. You can easily bend the hubs or spindle, or flat-spot the bearings. It makes me cringe to see guys removing wheel studs with a hammer. A tool like this works wonders, and puts no stress on the hub or bearings:
http://www.tigertool.com/product/106...d-Service-Kit-
That is a purpose-built tool, but a stout C-clamp and a socket on the backside works just as well. I don't remember the details of the Jag front end, but usually there is one spot designed for access to replace a wheel stud without having to remove the hub. Maybe somebody else can chime in.
Sorry for the late reply, haven't had much down time the last few days due to an urgent family matter. There seems to be a lot of confusion with UK vs. US terminology, the type of hardware, etc. Perhaps I can help and/or horribly muddy the waters.
First off, what kind of locking lug nuts (the US term) are we talking about? You mentioned the outer cover spinning, so I'm confused. There are only two types with which I'm familiar. Both are solid one piece nuts with a round exterior. One type has a specially-shaped recess on the end. A matching "key" fits in this recess and has hex flats for a wrench. The other type has randomly spaced slots around the otherwise smooth outside, and takes a special socket with matching raised ribs on the inside to fit the slots.
With both of these solid types, I think the removal tools mentioned should work. I couldn't see the inside, but if they look like this, you should be good. Hammer them on while applying torque with a breaker bar, and those internal spirals dig in and grab:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000I182FG?pc_redir=1
Heck, you could save the expense and try a huge pair of Vise-Grips. Or get in there with a handheld grinder and carefully grind flats on the round barrel so you can grab it with a regular socket.
However, since you mentioned the outer shell spinning, does that mean you have some other type on there? If so, they may be designed to resist those spiral removal sockets. In that case, I'd definitely try grinding if there's any room, to get down to the solid core so you could then grab it with those sockets, Vise-Grips, etc. If there's no room for a grinder, a small cut-off wheel in a Dremel tool may let you cut away that outer shell.
That may all be moot, however, if you've already removed them and are down to cleaning up the threads or replacing the wheel studs. If dealing with minor damage at the end, get a split die thread chaser:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009VH3EJC
That's a whole set, but I think you can get the individual pieces. The die splits in two so it can be installed below the damaged threads. Place a socket over the two pieces, clamping them together, and unthread the whole shooting match over the damaged threads. They work like magic to repair minor damage.
If you have to replace the studs, whatever you do, don't hammer them out. I searched for removal info, and nearly all the hits showed a mouth-breathing redneck in bib overalls, holding a big hammer. Wheel hubs just aren't designed to take that force. You can easily bend the hubs or spindle, or flat-spot the bearings. It makes me cringe to see guys removing wheel studs with a hammer. A tool like this works wonders, and puts no stress on the hub or bearings:
http://www.tigertool.com/product/106...d-Service-Kit-
That is a purpose-built tool, but a stout C-clamp and a socket on the backside works just as well. I don't remember the details of the Jag front end, but usually there is one spot designed for access to replace a wheel stud without having to remove the hub. Maybe somebody else can chime in.
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Comrade Gibby (11-11-2013)
#19
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Thanks for your advice sir, but I'm just wondering is it possible to remove wheel studs from S Type 2003 without removing the hubs (thus both front & rear)? I've tried both front and rear on my vehicle but to no avail. Some members have said studs can be removed through somewhere near the back plate, thus truth in most vehicles but I don't think it's possible in s type 2003. I've tried several times but it's just impossible. Thanks
#20
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Dear members,
Long at last I’ve managed to overcome those lock and lugnuts. Successful (though through hard way) I have changed the front and rear brakepads and fitted new front discs and cleaned rear ones.
I also managed to rethread two studs without much probs. My only problem now is the choice of the locking and lug nutsbecause I need to upgrade sooner than later. No one should ask me why, theaftermath of those two locking nuts drags me to go through that route.
Hon members, which lock and lug nuts can I buy to replacethese original jaguar nuts?
Thanks very much for your help
Long at last I’ve managed to overcome those lock and lugnuts. Successful (though through hard way) I have changed the front and rear brakepads and fitted new front discs and cleaned rear ones.
I also managed to rethread two studs without much probs. My only problem now is the choice of the locking and lug nutsbecause I need to upgrade sooner than later. No one should ask me why, theaftermath of those two locking nuts drags me to go through that route.
Hon members, which lock and lug nuts can I buy to replacethese original jaguar nuts?
Thanks very much for your help
Last edited by Norri; 11-11-2013 at 06:14 PM.