Changing my thermostat this weekend.....
#1
Changing my thermostat this weekend.....
ok so i need to replace my thermostat this weekend, and it shows that it is a 2.7 hour job. My local shop quoted me 410 dollars to install it. Soooooooooo since im not paying 400 dollars for someone to swap out my thermostat, and i can bleed the system myself, i looked arounf under the hood and it looks like it is 3 torx screws (t-30 i think by looking at it) and it seems i have the aluminum housing already. Is there some sort of issue that makes this a 2 and a half hour job for some reason???
And for some odd reason the local shop said it is 95 dollars for the thermostat??? seriously do these people think im that stupid? ughhhhhhhhhhhh sry had to vent a little
And for some odd reason the local shop said it is 95 dollars for the thermostat??? seriously do these people think im that stupid? ughhhhhhhhhhhh sry had to vent a little
#2
I replaced my thermostat with a low temp thermostat from Eurotoys.
http://eurotoysltd.com/catalog/produ...oducts_id=1173
I completed the job in about half an hour.
http://eurotoysltd.com/catalog/produ...oducts_id=1173
I completed the job in about half an hour.
#3
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Damon /Houston, Texas
Posts: 7,254
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ok so i need to replace my thermostat this weekend, and it shows that it is a 2.7 hour job. My local shop quoted me 410 dollars to install it. Soooooooooo since im not paying 400 dollars for someone to swap out my thermostat, and i can bleed the system myself, i looked arounf under the hood and it looks like it is 3 torx screws (t-30 i think by looking at it) and it seems i have the aluminum housing already. Is there some sort of issue that makes this a 2 and a half hour job for some reason???
And for some odd reason the local shop said it is 95 dollars for the thermostat??? Seriously do these people think im that stupid? Ughhhhhhhhhhhh sry had to vent a little
And for some odd reason the local shop said it is 95 dollars for the thermostat??? Seriously do these people think im that stupid? Ughhhhhhhhhhhh sry had to vent a little
#4
i have the thermostat already, looks like the bottom t-30 torx is the only one that might be iffy to get to. Also, the overflow tank on top of the motor, is there another opening to the radiator itself??? i looked quickly today but didnt see it right off the bat. Is there another one under it???
#5
yes that works both ways...love it when something like a belt change time stays the same even though now you have to take all kinds of stuff out of the way even see the belt..and yes parts prices are going through the roof,,i do have a 6 cylinder t stat new though...$25 shipped pm me
#7
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Damon /Houston, Texas
Posts: 7,254
Received 2,194 Likes
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i have the thermostat already, looks like the bottom t-30 torx is the only one that might be iffy to get to. Also, the overflow tank on top of the motor, is there another opening to the radiator itself??? i looked quickly today but didnt see it right off the bat. Is there another one under it???
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#8
Thanks for everyones insight and help........i did the themostat today and all is good. It required a flathead screwdriver to remove the air intake piece. 1 out of 10 for being difficult(10 being very difficult), opened the resoviour first, released the pressure. Removed 3 bolts surrounding the themostat housing, which was aluminum on my car. Required a t-30 torx bit on a 1/4 drive ratchet, with a 6 inch extension. Stuff a ****load of rags on top of the belts, wiggle the housing side off let it spill onto the rags. moved it up and pushed it back. Pry out old themostat carefully from the mount. WHOLE CRAP LOAD OF coolant will spill. Hence why i used so many towels/rags. Have the new thermostat ready to go with the o-ring installed. Install new thermostat the way the old one was. If you do it quick enouogh, you will lose minimal fluid. Install housing back on. Screw the t-30 torx back in. Remove soaked rags/towels. Reinstall air intake. leave the cover off the overflow for now. I filled up the overflow about halfway, and started the car and let it run. While it was running, i went in the house and grabbed my scanner so i could monitor the coolant temperature. Got to about 203° before i heard the engines fan kick. Watched the overflow to make sure i could see bubbles and hopefully it wouldnt start backing up and spraying everywhere. All was good. Reinstalled the overflow cap and went for a spin, i finally didnt hear the high speed fan running anymore, and i monitered the temp the whole time. Seemed to stay right at 205° and then running the a/c it was at 210° the whole time.
Brutal, is this what it should be?
Brutal, is this what it should be?
#9
#10
Dealership replaced my thermostat and waterpump last summer. Pump was covered, thermostat was not and the part and labor cost me $550. Then again, this is the same dealership that took over 2 hours last month to replace 2 plugs and coils. They were also kind enough to give me an estimate on replacing my pads and rotors for me for only $1400....
#11
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Damon /Houston, Texas
Posts: 7,254
Received 2,194 Likes
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1,360 Posts
Thanks for everyones insight and help........i did the themostat today and all is good. It required a flathead screwdriver to remove the air intake piece. 1 out of 10 for being difficult(10 being very difficult), opened the resoviour first, released the pressure. Removed 3 bolts surrounding the themostat housing, which was aluminum on my car. Required a t-30 torx bit on a 1/4 drive ratchet, with a 6 inch extension. Stuff a ****load of rags on top of the belts, wiggle the housing side off let it spill onto the rags. moved it up and pushed it back. Pry out old themostat carefully from the mount. WHOLE CRAP LOAD OF coolant will spill. Hence why i used so many towels/rags. Have the new thermostat ready to go with the o-ring installed. Install new thermostat the way the old one was. If you do it quick enouogh, you will lose minimal fluid. Install housing back on. Screw the t-30 torx back in. Remove soaked rags/towels. Reinstall air intake. leave the cover off the overflow for now. I filled up the overflow about halfway, and started the car and let it run. While it was running, i went in the house and grabbed my scanner so i could monitor the coolant temperature. Got to about 203° before i heard the engines fan kick. Watched the overflow to make sure i could see bubbles and hopefully it wouldnt start backing up and spraying everywhere. All was good. Reinstalled the overflow cap and went for a spin, i finally didnt hear the high speed fan running anymore, and i monitered the temp the whole time. Seemed to stay right at 205° and then running the a/c it was at 210° the whole time.
Brutal, is this what it should be?
Brutal, is this what it should be?
#12
Hmmm...I see you are in Ohio, but your description of the dealership you went to sounds impeccably close to that of Monte Shelton Jaguar in Portland, OR....crooked and money hungry.
As far as pads and rotors go...you should look into Brake Performance's website and talk to a guy named Andy. He's been helpful, and I think I'll be getting better quality products for less money than the overpriced Brembo crap the dealers tell you to buy.
As far as pads and rotors go...you should look into Brake Performance's website and talk to a guy named Andy. He's been helpful, and I think I'll be getting better quality products for less money than the overpriced Brembo crap the dealers tell you to buy.
Last edited by hottienamedscottie; 04-06-2009 at 12:26 PM.
#13
Thanks for everyones insight and help........i did the themostat today and all is good. It required a flathead screwdriver to remove the air intake piece. 1 out of 10 for being difficult(10 being very difficult), opened the resoviour first, released the pressure. Removed 3 bolts surrounding the themostat housing, which was aluminum on my car. Required a t-30 torx bit on a 1/4 drive ratchet, with a 6 inch extension. Stuff a ****load of rags on top of the belts, wiggle the housing side off let it spill onto the rags. moved it up and pushed it back. Pry out old themostat carefully from the mount. WHOLE CRAP LOAD OF coolant will spill. Hence why i used so many towels/rags. Have the new thermostat ready to go with the o-ring installed. Install new thermostat the way the old one was. If you do it quick enouogh, you will lose minimal fluid. Install housing back on. Screw the t-30 torx back in. Remove soaked rags/towels. Reinstall air intake. leave the cover off the overflow for now. I filled up the overflow about halfway, and started the car and let it run. While it was running, i went in the house and grabbed my scanner so i could monitor the coolant temperature. Got to about 203° before i heard the engines fan kick. Watched the overflow to make sure i could see bubbles and hopefully it wouldnt start backing up and spraying everywhere. All was good. Reinstalled the overflow cap and went for a spin, i finally didnt hear the high speed fan running anymore, and i monitered the temp the whole time. Seemed to stay right at 205° and then running the a/c it was at 210° the whole time.
#15
Thanks for everyones insight and help........i did the themostat today and all is good. It required a flathead screwdriver to remove the air intake piece. 1 out of 10 for being difficult(10 being very difficult), opened the resoviour first, released the pressure. Removed 3 bolts surrounding the themostat housing, which was aluminum on my car. Required a t-30 torx bit on a 1/4 drive ratchet, with a 6 inch extension. Stuff a ****load of rags on top of the belts, wiggle the housing side off let it spill onto the rags. moved it up and pushed it back. Pry out old themostat carefully from the mount. WHOLE CRAP LOAD OF coolant will spill. Hence why i used so many towels/rags. Have the new thermostat ready to go with the o-ring installed. Install new thermostat the way the old one was. If you do it quick enouogh, you will lose minimal fluid. Install housing back on. Screw the t-30 torx back in. Remove soaked rags/towels. Reinstall air intake. leave the cover off the overflow for now. I filled up the overflow about halfway, and started the car and let it run. While it was running, i went in the house and grabbed my scanner so i could monitor the coolant temperature. Got to about 203° before i heard the engines fan kick. Watched the overflow to make sure i could see bubbles and hopefully it wouldnt start backing up and spraying everywhere. All was good. Reinstalled the overflow cap and went for a spin, i finally didnt hear the high speed fan running anymore, and i monitered the temp the whole time. Seemed to stay right at 205° and then running the a/c it was at 210° the whole time.
Brutal, is this what it should be?
Brutal, is this what it should be?
#16
Thanks for this post. I bought a 2006 Jag S-Type this week which I drove from Florida to Michigan. Trip went well. But the next day, the cooling sign showed up. From reading your post, I am wondering whether I should try to change the thermostat or the water pump or both. If so, I might need some guidance. Can you advise, please?
#17
A little light on detail.
find out where the (relatively small) leak is coming from and fix that.
look for dried out coolant crust, and see if it weeps (wet) after a drive when upto temperature.
Have a look at the dccv (duel climate control valve) as one of many things. expansion tank etc etc, which could be leaking, or you will be changing out a lot of stuff for no good reason.
Sounds like a great drive with the Jaguar thou, How many miles on this trip.
find out where the (relatively small) leak is coming from and fix that.
look for dried out coolant crust, and see if it weeps (wet) after a drive when upto temperature.
Have a look at the dccv (duel climate control valve) as one of many things. expansion tank etc etc, which could be leaking, or you will be changing out a lot of stuff for no good reason.
Sounds like a great drive with the Jaguar thou, How many miles on this trip.
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phb (08-13-2016)
#18
Thank you, bydand. It was about 1500 miles. A great ride indeed.
There is no sign that coolant is being lost. Since I am a first time Jag owner, I cannot differenciate between sounds that would be normal and abnormal Jag sounds; but the fan seems to run high. The engin heats up fast, even when I start the car in the garage and let it run idle. Would that be enough detail to warrant changing the thermostat first and then try to change the water pump if the first does not solve the problem? Thank you very much for your advice.
There is no sign that coolant is being lost. Since I am a first time Jag owner, I cannot differenciate between sounds that would be normal and abnormal Jag sounds; but the fan seems to run high. The engin heats up fast, even when I start the car in the garage and let it run idle. Would that be enough detail to warrant changing the thermostat first and then try to change the water pump if the first does not solve the problem? Thank you very much for your advice.
#19
Thank you, phd12volt, for this post. I am communicating with bydand (who also contributed to this thread). And I would also like to get your opinion, please. I purchased a 2006 S-Type Jag this week. It overheating icon is showing on the dash. There is not sign of leak. Would you advise that I changed the thermostat or the water pump or both? If so, would you give some advice and guidance from your own experience? Thank you!
#20
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phb (08-13-2016)