Check engine light
#1
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My Jaguar enthusiast and owners, I have several issues going on with my Jaguar at one time. I took it in for the check engine (restricted performance) light and it came back with several codes, P0171 lien bank one, P0174 lien bank two, P0860 gearshift module communication circuit, P1260 security input, P1582 flight recorder data is stored, P0102 mass or volume air floor circuit low input, P0112 intake air temperature circuit low input, also has seven HVAC codes and two instrument pad codes. I do believe that there was an issue with maybe something getting wet, due to us having rains very recently. Unfortunately, I no longer have a splashguard underneath the vehicle so therefore I believe somethings got wet to cause all these codes go on. The mechanic reset the light over a week ago and the light has not been back on. Has anyone else ever encountered this kind of an issue? Is it because something got wet? I would greatly appreciate any help or advice anyone has.
This is for a 2003 jaguar S-type sport 3.0 L
This is for a 2003 jaguar S-type sport 3.0 L
Last edited by Paula Vecchiarelli; 08-02-2021 at 06:12 PM. Reason: Forgot to mention something.
#2
Join Date: Jan 2012
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How many miles are on the vehicle?
Use a smart phone with the Torque app to connect with the vehicle through the OBD port using a Bluetooth interface. Look at the STFTs and LTFTs then search for vacuum leaks. The fuel trims will let you know how much the PCM is compensating for excess air entering the system.
Another thing to check with the Torque app is fuel pressure, which should be 3.3 bar (330 kPa) at idle and 3.8 bar (380 kPa) at full throttle (WOT). If the fuel pressure is below the specification, there may be a clogged fuel filter, or the fuel pump is failing.
Use a smart phone with the Torque app to connect with the vehicle through the OBD port using a Bluetooth interface. Look at the STFTs and LTFTs then search for vacuum leaks. The fuel trims will let you know how much the PCM is compensating for excess air entering the system.
Another thing to check with the Torque app is fuel pressure, which should be 3.3 bar (330 kPa) at idle and 3.8 bar (380 kPa) at full throttle (WOT). If the fuel pressure is below the specification, there may be a clogged fuel filter, or the fuel pump is failing.
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#3
Join Date: Jan 2012
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Forgot to also ask what is the battery voltage across the terminals with the ignition in the OFF position when checked with a voltmeter?
If there is less than 12.6 volts, charge the battery at 2 to 5 amps for five or six hours and retest. If the voltage is still below 12.6 volts, the battery is suspect. Many random instrument cluster warnings and DTCs are the result of a failing or weak battery.
If there is less than 12.6 volts, charge the battery at 2 to 5 amps for five or six hours and retest. If the voltage is still below 12.6 volts, the battery is suspect. Many random instrument cluster warnings and DTCs are the result of a failing or weak battery.
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#4
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
How many miles are on the vehicle?
Use a smart phone with the Torque app to connect with the vehicle through the OBD port using a Bluetooth interface. Look at the STFTs and LTFTs then search for vacuum leaks. The fuel trims will let you know how much the PCM is compensating for excess air entering the system.
Another thing to check with the Torque app is fuel pressure, which should be 3.3 bar (330 kPa) at idle and 3.8 bar (380 kPa) at full throttle (WOT). If the fuel pressure is below the specification, there may be a clogged fuel filter, or the fuel pump is failing.
Use a smart phone with the Torque app to connect with the vehicle through the OBD port using a Bluetooth interface. Look at the STFTs and LTFTs then search for vacuum leaks. The fuel trims will let you know how much the PCM is compensating for excess air entering the system.
Another thing to check with the Torque app is fuel pressure, which should be 3.3 bar (330 kPa) at idle and 3.8 bar (380 kPa) at full throttle (WOT). If the fuel pressure is below the specification, there may be a clogged fuel filter, or the fuel pump is failing.
#5
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Forgot to also ask what is the battery voltage across the terminals with the ignition in the OFF position when checked with a voltmeter?
If there is less than 12.6 volts, charge the battery at 2 to 5 amps for five or six hours and retest. If the voltage is still below 12.6 volts, the battery is suspect. Many random instrument cluster warnings and DTCs are the result of a failing or weak battery.
If there is less than 12.6 volts, charge the battery at 2 to 5 amps for five or six hours and retest. If the voltage is still below 12.6 volts, the battery is suspect. Many random instrument cluster warnings and DTCs are the result of a failing or weak battery.
#6
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So you got a bunch of different types of codes on a car that was recently given to you. Can I assume the car was sitting for a while before you started driving it? The reason I ask is because when a car sits for a long time the battery can get very low and that low battery can cause multitude of different failure code to appear. So now that you’re driving it and you’ve had all the codes cleared continue to drive it and see if the malfunction light turns on again and then check to see what those codes are. With the lien code and the airflow code they seem to go hand-in-hand so I would be looking at the maf sensor first (its on the intake tube coming off the aircleaner box) as well as any vacuum leaks on any of the O-rings for any of the vacuum lines like the ones going to the PCV valve and the fuel injector O-rings
#7
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Oh yeah and I would try to find the belly pan and replace it as you are correct in your assumption that water can cause all sorts of electrical gremlins. I know this because my car came without a belly pan and one missing wheel well liner and I had a bunch of corroded connections in that general area that caused me all sorts of nightmares with my lights not working correctly.I had to actually cut off and replace several connectors because the corrosion was so severe
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#8
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So you got a bunch of different types of codes on a car that was recently given to you. Can I assume the car was sitting for a while before you started driving it? The reason I ask is because when a car sits for a long time the battery can get very low and that low battery can cause multitude of different failure code to appear. So now that you’re driving it and you’ve had all the codes cleared continue to drive it and see if the malfunction light turns on again and then check to see what those codes are. With the lien code and the airflow code they seem to go hand-in-hand so I would be looking at the maf sensor first (its on the intake tube coming off the aircleaner box) as well as any vacuum leaks on any of the O-rings for any of the vacuum lines like the ones going to the PCV valve and the fuel injector O-rings
#9
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Paula Vecchiarelli (08-05-2021)
#10
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The system was reset, no codes at this time, no engine light, and no restricted performance. It’s been a week. I believe the culprit to be the rain & no belly pan. Where is the best place to find a belly pan?
#11
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JagV8 means the emission testing monitors. Every time the battery is unhooked these are reset to "Not Ready". That's why they are called readiness monitors.
There are 5 of them and you can't get your car inspection if they are not in the ready state. How this is accomplished is driving the car in different ways. Takes a while and is automatic.
Did you erase all the codes when you had them read? You need to erase them so you can tell what is current or new and not left over from some time earlier.
P1000 means the monitors have all been reset and are NOT ready. P1111 means you have the readiness monitors all set. So every time you check codes you should be seeing either P1000 or P1111 along with whatever other codes your car has.
.
.
.
There are 5 of them and you can't get your car inspection if they are not in the ready state. How this is accomplished is driving the car in different ways. Takes a while and is automatic.
Did you erase all the codes when you had them read? You need to erase them so you can tell what is current or new and not left over from some time earlier.
P1000 means the monitors have all been reset and are NOT ready. P1111 means you have the readiness monitors all set. So every time you check codes you should be seeing either P1000 or P1111 along with whatever other codes your car has.
.
.
.
The following users liked this post:
Paula Vecchiarelli (08-05-2021)
#12
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
JagV8 means the emission testing monitors. Every time the battery is unhooked these are reset to "Not Ready". That's why they are called readiness monitors.
There are 5 of them and you can't get your car inspection if they are not in the ready state. How this is accomplished is driving the car in different ways. Takes a while and is automatic.
Did you erase all the codes when you had them read? You need to erase them so you can tell what is current or new and not left over from some time earlier.
P1000 means the monitors have all been reset and are NOT ready. P1111 means you have the readiness monitors all set. So every time you check codes you should be seeing either P1000 or P1111 along with whatever other codes your car has.
.
.
.
There are 5 of them and you can't get your car inspection if they are not in the ready state. How this is accomplished is driving the car in different ways. Takes a while and is automatic.
Did you erase all the codes when you had them read? You need to erase them so you can tell what is current or new and not left over from some time earlier.
P1000 means the monitors have all been reset and are NOT ready. P1111 means you have the readiness monitors all set. So every time you check codes you should be seeing either P1000 or P1111 along with whatever other codes your car has.
.
.
.
#13
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Oh yeah and I would try to find the belly pan and replace it as you are correct in your assumption that water can cause all sorts of electrical gremlins. I know this because my car came without a belly pan and one missing wheel well liner and I had a bunch of corroded connections in that general area that caused me all sorts of nightmares with my lights not working correctly.I had to actually cut off and replace several connectors because the corrosion was so severe
#14
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Paula Vecchiarelli (08-05-2021)
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