Check engine light- parkbrake failure, dsc fault, gearbox fault... and more
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Check engine light- parkbrake failure, dsc fault, gearbox fault... and more
Hi guys. I'm having some weird faults pop up on my car. While pulling into a parking spot, I got a sequence of error messages and then the car was rendered undrivable almost.
I think it went: parking break error, then dsc fault. I may have even got a gearbox fault one sandwiched between those 2. The check engine light came on and it said engine management failure or something like that. At that point, the car idle increased to 1100 rpm and was running very rough. It was like the car was running on half the cylinders.
Is it possible that my worn out parking break pads are causing some kind of crazy sensor problem that are leading to the other problems?
I will add that if I shut the car off and immediately restart within 5 seconds, the error messages and rough running are still there. If I let it off for more than 30 seconds, then the check engine light remains, but the other codes are gone. I've got the error codes about 6 times over the last 20 miles and it pretty much only happend as I'm stopping or when I'm stopped with my foot on the brake.
I think it went: parking break error, then dsc fault. I may have even got a gearbox fault one sandwiched between those 2. The check engine light came on and it said engine management failure or something like that. At that point, the car idle increased to 1100 rpm and was running very rough. It was like the car was running on half the cylinders.
Is it possible that my worn out parking break pads are causing some kind of crazy sensor problem that are leading to the other problems?
I will add that if I shut the car off and immediately restart within 5 seconds, the error messages and rough running are still there. If I let it off for more than 30 seconds, then the check engine light remains, but the other codes are gone. I've got the error codes about 6 times over the last 20 miles and it pretty much only happend as I'm stopping or when I'm stopped with my foot on the brake.
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Seems like the car starts to revolt long before you even know the battery is bad. I had a very simliar issue going on with mine a while back but I had my original factory battery still. Just replaced last summer, not to bad for a 2003!
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It shouldn't have failed. Checking the voltage is only useful if it shows low (means fail), as an OK voltage is not a Pass (because you need to know what it does worst case during starting and running).
I suppose low volts, if you have that, in this sort of case may point to a drain or failing alternator. Or poor connection.
I suppose low volts, if you have that, in this sort of case may point to a drain or failing alternator. Or poor connection.
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Hey guys. So I've been taking it easy on the car recently in light of the recent events. So last night I was driving home from dinner and the car flipped out after I got off the freeway and 20 miles of highway driving. There went my theory about the stereo flatlining the battery. At this point, I think either the battery is shot, the alternator isn't working as it is or I have an electrical issue elsewhere causing the battery to be drained.
I hooked up the charger today and the battery was indeed low. The battery is about 6-9 months old, so I'll see if they can swap it out. If that fixes it, great, since it won't cost me anything. In the meantime, my jag is going to be treated like a chevy volt (plugged in quite often).
I hooked up the charger today and the battery was indeed low. The battery is about 6-9 months old, so I'll see if they can swap it out. If that fixes it, great, since it won't cost me anything. In the meantime, my jag is going to be treated like a chevy volt (plugged in quite often).
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so am i the only one that interpreted his symptoms as "limp home" mode.? given the fact that my car has limped on me so00oooOOooo many times prior to giving the throttle body and all the connections a thorough cleaning.. if its determined that the battery isn't the culprit of the problem, i would look into the throttle body next qwiketz
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so am i the only one that interpreted his symptoms as "limp home" mode.? given the fact that my car has limped on me so00oooOOooo many times prior to giving the throttle body and all the connections a thorough cleaning.. if its determined that the battery isn't the culprit of the problem, i would look into the throttle body next qwiketz
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Hey guys. As an update. I charged the battery and it went a way for a day or two. Yesterday the car was running fine until I took it out to dinner. On the way home it freaked out and the sequence went something like
=> dsc failure, parkbrake failure, gearbox fault, engine mangement system failure
Once you get to the last one, the car idles at 1100 rpm rough and is not drivable at all. It's not in restricted performance mode. It will only idle in gear and so you can only go about 3-5 mph. Once I shut it off, it started without the fault but then it happed again in a few blocks. The third time I got it, I timed it with the light so that I could get the car running/accelearating instead of idling. My thought was the additional output of the alternator may keep it from happening. I got the car home the additional mile, put it on the charge and drove it to work today. I'm leaving early for an appointment and then after that I'm going to take it over to the local autozone to get the codes pulled and have the battery tested.
I pulled the fuse from the stereo in an effort to isolate things so it's not that. I'm suspecting a weak battery but we'll see. Last night when I put it on the charger, it was once again in the middle of the low to high swing of the charger. I'm thinking that it's not really a horrible battery (since the car restarts fine and doesn't have trouble cranking) but rather that it's voltage is just low enough to cause the car to freak out under a good electrical load (such as at night).
=> dsc failure, parkbrake failure, gearbox fault, engine mangement system failure
Once you get to the last one, the car idles at 1100 rpm rough and is not drivable at all. It's not in restricted performance mode. It will only idle in gear and so you can only go about 3-5 mph. Once I shut it off, it started without the fault but then it happed again in a few blocks. The third time I got it, I timed it with the light so that I could get the car running/accelearating instead of idling. My thought was the additional output of the alternator may keep it from happening. I got the car home the additional mile, put it on the charge and drove it to work today. I'm leaving early for an appointment and then after that I'm going to take it over to the local autozone to get the codes pulled and have the battery tested.
I pulled the fuse from the stereo in an effort to isolate things so it's not that. I'm suspecting a weak battery but we'll see. Last night when I put it on the charger, it was once again in the middle of the low to high swing of the charger. I'm thinking that it's not really a horrible battery (since the car restarts fine and doesn't have trouble cranking) but rather that it's voltage is just low enough to cause the car to freak out under a good electrical load (such as at night).