As everyone has already pointed out - your battery is toast! More than likely due to the stereo system draw - doesn't matter how "new" the battery is. You need a strong voltage to keep all the car systems in "tip top" shape - never mind that the battery starts the car - you don't want to get sranded somewhere inconvienent.

If your going to keep that 75W draw from the stereo system "in play" - best bet is to invest in a strong Optima battery and call it a day. Also, get your alternator load tested as well - Good Luck!

 

Hey guys. So I had the codes cleared and unhooked the amp. My theory was that a repair done to my drivers side headlight was somehow grounding the system out and causing excessive amperage pull.

Since it the codes got cleared, I have put about 200 miles on the car. I kept driving the car at night to a minimum and haven't been using the daytime running lights or stereo much at all. I didn't have any issues until last week. I was driving to work at speed on the freeway when the car flipped out. At the time, the headlights were on the auto setting (so they were on) and I had the stereo playing (with no amp hooked up). I was surprised it happened then because I was at speed at about 2000 rpm. But, once it did happen and after pulling over to the side of the road, the car started right up and I drove it home to work and for 50 more miles before taking it to the shop. I didn't have any other incidents during that time period.

So I got a call from the shop today. They're saying that it's a throttle body issue. I'm thinking it's a headlight issue since it only happens when the headlights are on. The guys on here think that it's a battery issue. My heads spinning now.

I have had the battery checked twice by two different people and it "seemed" fine but once again, this testing wasn't under a load with the car running, headlights on and radio blasting. I wish they'd just replace it so that I can rule this out. I don't have an extra battery that will fit sitting around unfortunately. I'd like to get the alternator tested but have not done so yet.

How much of an issue can the throttle body be on these cars? Is this a common thing to fail? The car has 65k mile on it now. What do you guys think?

 

It seems the TB's don't fail so much as they get moisture in them. As you know the TB is at the back of the engine and water from the cowl can leak down and sometimes directly on the TB.

If the TB does not get wet they appear to last the life of the car.
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Just sharing my experience with my 2003 V-8. I had the same issues. I attempted to chase everything down one by one. My battery checked out as "good "so I hung in there fighting the issues for weeks. I finally had nowhere else to go so I switched to a new battery. That solved all the problems. Immediately. I haven't had a problem with those issues for a year now. I know I'm number six or seven on this but .....pretty sure it's the battery.

 

(1) weak bat, bat has to hold 10v to supply power to all the ecm...(2) Alt output to low failing to keep bat charged...(3) look at the front crankshaft pulley, could be slipping on the locking collet causing low alt output..This happened to me...

 

Interesting post. Very thought provoking. I'm at this point of the opinion that it could be several things contributing. I'll probably replace the battery and see what happens but the pulley idea is something I'd like to check out as well. I might as well rule out as many things as I can.

Question about the slipping collet on the crank pulley. If it were slipping, wouldn't that have and effect on the other accessories working good as well such as the a/c or the power steering? What were the symptoms when your car had meltdowns? Did your car crank right up repeatedly after it "freaked out". It seems like I have plenty of cranking power with no fade when it repeatedly cranks. Also, how'd you test and figure out that the crank pulley was slipping?

Hopefully the info from this thread will help the next guy out down the road if he does change his battery and it still doesn't completely fix the situation they have.

 

OK, When I had this problem... although the systems on the car require at least 10v to keep everything powered up, there Is still more than enough power to crank the motor and as long as the motor starts easy you will not notice......Crankpully? It seems the pulley has enough grip for the motor to function with no Issue or noise, the first red flag i started to lose power steering, almost like you had a P/S fluid leak, I stopped to chk, all looked good as I was only about 3 miles from home I atemted to limp home, made it 2 miles when temp shot into the red..tow to shop..thats when we found the pulley issue, after removing It, It was clear the pulley had been slipping around the cone for a fair amount of time, as when the cone was placed inside the pulley If was as loose as a pencil In a tea cup, how It made It as far as It did???? the other flag was after useing the car at nite I got funny warning lites, I scanned the ecm for code but found none, and the lites would only show at Idle...So I waited to see what was going to happen...If nothing else Its worth looking?? Good Luck...CM

 

Driving the car again today and it occurred again but with the lights off... The battery was stron enough to jump my corvettes dead battery... I'm confused.... Back to the drawing board with my theories

 

Ignore the corvette part. You already know it starts the jag so you've added no new data. And we know many modern cars don't like low volts even if they start...

Up to you, but when I bought a new battery it wasn't because I was 100% certain it was needed but because I was reasonably sure and it was one of the cheapest and easiest parts to fit.

 

+1, you're beating around the bush, when it comes to an S-Type, you haven't really 'checked' the battery until you've actually replaced it altogether!!!

 

I've been on limited time and resources since I was moving last week. I'm going to swap in a replacement battery and see what happens!

 

Had the same problem with my son's 05 S-type last month. He replaced the battery and the CEL went off 2 days later. Called me this morning. The car went into limp mode again last night! Since just prior to that, the car threw a P2135 code, I am afraid we need to address a problem with the throttle body. Good luck with your car!

 

So does the whole throttle body have to be replaced or is it the sensors and electronics on it? How much did it run to fix your throttle body?

 

I know another but......... had battery tested ok, throwing random faults, parkbrake, transmission, and others. NEW bosch 850 cca battery, been like a new car since. Just sayin, spend the hundred bucks and just badmouth interstate. LOL then youll know. At least you have a nice new battery!

 

So is the p2135 code the throttle body?

Also I was thinking of getting an optima 34r battery. It's one of the red ones. Would that be a decent choice of battery?

 

Maybe get the TB rebuilt??

XR8AM007815A XR8AM007815A S Type Throttle Body
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I had a little difficulty picking the website up off my phone. I'll try swapping the battery and then if necessary look into that one more.

 

+18 on a new battery needed. You should try and get one with the following spec: 110 amp/hr; 850cca or more.


These cars like all modern vehicle are sensitive to anything other than optimum electrical conditions.

Imagine this: you put the key in and start the engine, what happens during the first 5-10 secs is that a lot of the electrical systems are going through their start-up check procedure; at the same time you have asked the starter motor to turn the engine over - this robs volts for the other electrical systems so they start to panic and can't complete their check procedure consequently throwing up lights like it's Christmas.

Buy a good quality, high spec battery, put it on charge for 24hrs, then leave for at least 1 hr then install in the car.

 

Yes, P2135 is the code for the TB. Check this out...Jag dealer quoted $3200 just for the part! Indy quoted $900 to install a new TB, rebuild the old one (takes awhile), then reinstall the rebuilt TB.

Pisses me off that this is a known problem and should have been a recall ages ago. Never again will I own another Jag, regardless of who owns the company.

 

Pretty rare.

Have you taken note of the TSB on this?

A recall is a very different thing for all makes of car, basically safety-related. Sorry you won't want to hear that but hey.