I have a Jag 2005, S-type, 3.0 46K. Zero problems of any serious nature.

I put in a new battery and reconnected. When I first started it- everything seemed fine except for resetting parking brake and that was simple. I then decided to clean the air filter and obviously had to remove the Mass Air flow sensor. I put in back together and started to drive the car and had an error message (restrictive engine performance- i assume limp mode) and then realized after driving a half mile that I had failed to recoonect the mass Air Flow sensor and then did so and went back to normal mode, but had a check engine light, but no apparent problem and no error message.

It is a broad question to ask, but having done nothing else to the car- i am a little stuck.

The only thing i noticed that was different or sounded different was when i turned the key on or off and started and turned off the car there appeared to be a slight clicking sound in the key turn on and key turn off in the area of the throttle body and when I put a stethacope on it, It seemed to be in the area of the throttle position motor. I had not heard it before and the throttle body sounds fine.

is this type of amber light dangerous or is it something the car will clear after it runs through a couple of hot -cold cycles.How do you reset the codes manually to clear and see if it comes back?

Tom in Dallas

 

Your best bet is to get an OBD2 scanner and clear the code/s. Then your check engine light should be gone and everything else will be in order after that. If you don't have one you always can go to ADvance auto parts,Autozone,Pep Boys and get it done.

good luck

 

Is there not a manual way to clear the codes? Wound it be normal to have a check engine light after a limp mode- even if I immediately corrected the cause of the limp mode and where the hell is the port for the sensor in this car. I looked and must be blind.

 

The CEL will likely go out after approx. 10 start/stop cycles. Clear with scanner if longer.

 

Tom I see you in Dallas, pm me your contact info and I can lend a hand I'm down the street sorta in carrollton

 

It makes sense that it would store a code after what the system would consider a major fault (maf sensor not attached) I could go ny some auto parts store and have them hook in their scanner, but frankly, most of them appear lost and I worry they could do more damage than help and for whatever reason, (perhaps frustration) I could not even find the data port.

If I were to buy a scanner, what do I need to work correctly on the Jag. I know it needs to be an ODB II, but they also make reference to a "can" ( of which I know not)

Another question;; when the battery is disconnected and the system drained, does the ECM and TCM have to relearn or do any of the settings remain?

Thanks

Tom

 

If it was just the MAF, the light will go off after 3 (maybe 2) drive cycles (i.e. engine cold to engine hot). The code will remain stored for 40 or 80 but harmlessly.

There's no need to clear it but you've confused it. If you want to speed it up, clearing with an OBD will NOT do it. You can clear the code(s) that way but it will NOT change its learning.

If you do want to speed its learning (even though there's no need), you have to disconnect the battery. No, that won't affect the TCM. It will affect the PCM and it will start re-learning.

It may also affect the EPB (park brake) but the forum (and handbook) cover that.

The best value OBD tool is an elm327 ($20 or so on ebay). A far better tool is AutoEnginuity but it's more like $450. Search here on those 2 tools for more info, as covered often.

Your car has lots of OBD networks. Have a hunt for the circuit diagrams in jtis ($10 ebay) if you want a surprise.

 

What about a INNOva 3130 scan tool? Heard nothing but rave reviews about its features, plus it gives real time data, like temp of engine, transmission, oil, etc......check out the link for more info, http://www.amazon.com/Equus-3130-Dia...8544573&sr=8-1

 

Once again the forum is right. My check engine light is now gone and the car is functioning fine.

Thanks again

Tom

 

I think you 'll find that cheapish Innova does not do what you hope. Especially on a jag. For OBD they are NOT Fords!

Feel free to buy and come back with what it does

But take a look at the huge coverage of AE. Just about every sensor on every module.

 

Yep been there done that, tried to reinvent the wheel and in the end I'm using AE. Lol

 

I've got a ScanGuage on my '05 STR and it reads and clears codes flawlessly. I can also see the other OBD data points such as MAP (boost), water temp, intake air temp, RPM, MPH, load, etc etc. It's worth the extra cash in my opinion.

 

I used a friends Innova 3130 on my Jaguar STR, and it does what it says it does, works flawlessly thats the reason I recommended it , I'm sure AE works just as good, but don't judge something that you haven't tried

Another cool thing which I like about it, is that I can get Accurate temperature read outs of my Transmission when I'm doing a Transmission fluid change, thats just one of many plus points with live data features it has.

 

No one is judging at least I don't think.

There is only so much data a generic obd2 scanner can get from our cars.

If you want abs bcm tcm and other module data you MUST have more specialized tools.

I myself need to monitor iat2 which is a sensor which measures charge temp for the air after the blower which AE is the cheapest one I could find to do it. That's a pretty specialized sensor that can't be read in I think mode $02 (don't quote on the mode. I don't remember all of them off the top of my head)

 

Those are all generic OBD and also all from the PCM. A $20 elm327 will read those. You don't get a fancy display at that price is about the only difference.

The SG as I recall lets you define a small number of custom PIDs so you could in theory read more but the large snag is that you'd need to know the magic values for the PIDs. Overall it's so much easier just to get AE if you want more data.

 

You posted a link to the Innova so I read what it says it does and from that it's miles behind the features of AE. But it costs nearly as much.

 

On the newer cars, the light goes out when the problem is fixed. There is no reason to clear codes like in older cars. In fact, it stores the codes for a while and it is good to have them in there if you are really trying to fix something... IE..Many electrical issues have been discovered by the fact that the car kept producing random codes. So, don't clear them..let the system work as designed.

The amber light and "restricted performance" is much different than "limp mode". Basically, amber / "restricted performance" means there is an immediate issue but the car can still drive. Red warning light and "limp" mode means that the computer senses a catastrophic failure but will allow the engine to idle so you still have brakes and steering.

My car makes the same clicking noises, always has.

 

can anybody please comfirm if the elm 327 tool mentioned above will work on a 2006 s-type 3.0?

 

Yes it will.

 

thank you, Mafioso.