Getting kinda frustrated here. You still haven't explained how the burnt circuit board was repaired so quickly. Meanwhile, your mechanic must be planning an expensive vacation soon, or maybe he owes money to the Mob and is partial to keeping his kneecaps.

If I'm guessing correctly, a circuit board with a suspect and potentially dangerous repair was reinstalled. Lo and behold, in addition to the existing uncommanded heat, you've suddenly got brand new symptoms of a screeching noise from the compressor and no cooling fan. Is this mechanic blackmailing you? Does he have pictures of you partying with Nancy Pelosi?

Trying to help you here, but we keep going backwards. One crisis at a time. For the moment, totally forget about any cooling action from the AC portion of the system. We will come back to that. Concentrate on why you're getting vent air that is warmer than ambient. Solve that piece of the puzzle. With any luck, the rest of the pieces will fall into place.

 

But that loose plug.....

 

Knock it off, you naughty person you!

 

....your exhaustive troubleshooting guide and patient, reasoned, well-thought-out instructions don't seem to be of any effect in keeping the OP from bouncing all over the car changing pieces and assigning and re-assigning blame....thought maybe I could wear him down looking for a (likely) non-existent mating plug to the point he'd be more receptive to your guidance.....but as they say on SHark-Tank, "I'm out."

 

The compressor is an obvious metal-on-metal noise. From what I could see, the clutch wasn’t fully engaging. As for the fan, nothings gonna get cold without the engine it’s self cooling. Right now, I’m heading toward the idea of the DCCV being bad, mechanically. I’ve had the car for since the beginning of June, only had it in my garage for maybe, a span of two weeks. Safe to say I’m ready for some head way.

 

Trying to remember how many bolts there are, but from underneath the car, you can unbolt the compressor. Of course, you will have to discharge the system first. Remove the compressor and put it on your workbench. Measure the compressor from end to end. In your backyard, dig a hole big enough for the measurement you just took. Wrap the compressor in a sturdy plastic bag and seal it. Lower the compressor into the hole and backfill it with dirt. Pour a concrete slab over the backfilled hole, at least several inches deep. Let the concrete fully cure, for several days at least. Arrange some nice patio furniture on the slab in a pleasing pattern. Follow feng shui principles for best results. Here's a good primer:

Feng Shui Your Backyard In 6 Easy Ways



Once you have the compressor out of the way and out of mind like that, continue troubleshooting why you are getting heat from the vents when the temperature should not rise above ambient. Or if you prefer not to go to the trouble of removing the compressor, digging up your backyard, etc., you can just continue troubleshooting why you are getting heat from the vents when the temperature should not rise above ambient. Your call.

The preceding was industrial strength satire. I'm hoping I can get across in some manner that I literally do NOT care what your compressor is doing right now. Based on the symptoms and how they have changed, you're probably looking at something wrong with the control module. Is this the third time I've asked the following? I've lost track. How was the control module repaired so quickly? With a jumper wire across the burnt trace? Please see the previous link showing how that is likely to start a fire. And for goodness' sake, answer the foolish question. I'm not trying to embarrass you. I'm trying to keep your car from catching fire. Here's the link again, to save the trouble of having to scroll up:

https://jaguarclimatecontrol.com/new...t-to-see-this/


The intent is not to **** you off. The intent is to help you fix your car in the quickest, most cost effective manner. But if you can't answer about the control module repair or follow any of the other simple instructions, I'm out, too.

 

Update: because there was no fan, compressor overheated, and it’s shot, compressor is warranted so good there, but not on the 900$ fan. Where could I find a cooling fan used? Also, because it was so hot, the compressor was spitting out Freon bc the high side of ac was 500psi+. So it had only .5 pounds as opposed to 1.2 pounds of Freon it’s needs. I think the DCCV is fine. As for the RCCM being jumper wired, I’m tired of throwing money without getting results, so I gladly am taking the 35$ quick fix and spend the 250$ at a later date.

 

We've reached the limits of my alleged expertise on the climate control system. No idea how you managed to simultaneously kill the fan. I suspect the fan itself is fine, but the freshly smoked AC module is incapable of sending the command for the fan to run. The engine PCM can send a separate run command if the coolant temperature starts to rise too high. Not sure how to test it, but I bet that communication path still works.

I'll semi-gracefully bow out now. We have vastly different ideas of how to proceed and I'm just bashing my head against the wall. Best of luck, and I hope your mechanic can sort it all out. Please post an update with the fix.

 

Got it back a couple of days ago, brand new fan, new compressor, both sides are cold at idle, passenger side is warm while driving, drivers side is cool, not cold. I was told there is a small Freon leak somewhere in the system. I think I’m going to try a new DCCV here sometime soon. If that doesn’t work, then I’ll leave it alone, bc rn it is live able. My question is, can I replace the DCCV my self on the STR, or is it not worth the hassle, and if I can replace it myself, is there any good guides to go through it step by step?

 

So u won't answer the questions above?? These ppl are trying to help but you keep giving the run around