Clitches and gremlins -check your battery first
#1
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When I got my car it has had a host of issues with warning lights, restricted performance, the gear stick locking itself in park. After a couple of diagnostic checks which suggested all was fine I was resigned to taking the car to a Jag dealer for a full diagnostic at £140, ouch!
But, before I did that it was suggested I check that battery and lo and behold it was faulty. Something to do with the amps, so it would start fine but was causing the EMU to think that there were problems. £110 and a new battery and all the gremlins went away.
That was about a year ago and still no repeats of the issues I had.
So I thought I would share and suggest whatever your issue, check your battery is working properly.
But, before I did that it was suggested I check that battery and lo and behold it was faulty. Something to do with the amps, so it would start fine but was causing the EMU to think that there were problems. £110 and a new battery and all the gremlins went away.
That was about a year ago and still no repeats of the issues I had.
So I thought I would share and suggest whatever your issue, check your battery is working properly.
#2
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
When I got my car it has had a host of issues with warning lights, restricted performance, the gear stick locking itself in park. After a couple of diagnostic checks which suggested all was fine I was resigned to taking the car to a Jag dealer for a full diagnostic at £140, ouch!
But, before I did that it was suggested I check that battery and lo and behold it was faulty. Something to do with the amps, so it would start fine but was causing the EMU to think that there were problems. £110 and a new battery and all the gremlins went away.
That was about a year ago and still no repeats of the issues I had.
So I thought I would share and suggest whatever your issue, check your battery is working properly.
But, before I did that it was suggested I check that battery and lo and behold it was faulty. Something to do with the amps, so it would start fine but was causing the EMU to think that there were problems. £110 and a new battery and all the gremlins went away.
That was about a year ago and still no repeats of the issues I had.
So I thought I would share and suggest whatever your issue, check your battery is working properly.
#3
#4
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The trickle charger is a great idea. I might get one of these
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Ring-Automot...860474&sr=8-13
and I do make sure the car has a decent 30 minute run once a week.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Ring-Automot...860474&sr=8-13
and I do make sure the car has a decent 30 minute run once a week.
#5
#6
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I bought one of these from Walmart for $20.00. It has a sensor that only adds juice when needed and has the option of a permanant cable hook-up to the battery, so all you have to do is literally plug it into the car when you are going to be away for a bit...
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Schumacher...arger/13005742
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Schumacher...arger/13005742
#7
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If your battery charger works on the constant-voltage charging system, which it should do when charging a lead-acid bettery, the charge limits itself to practically zero on reaching 14.4volt. (For a 12volt nominal battery). Of course, if it happened to be another technology such as nickel cadmium, lithium-ion, NIFE etc., that would not apply. Eg. nickel cadmium and nickel-metal hydride use a smart charging system that tests the battery voltage under load for a second or two when the charge cycle is finished.
The reason why a battery can be responsible for all sorts of random errorcodes in a car has puzzled me for a while. Suffice it to say when I put a 68,000microfarad capacitor across my battery (S-typeD) the odd MIL light and restricted performance I was getting has stopped altogether for more than six months now. Not even once!
Leedsman.
The reason why a battery can be responsible for all sorts of random errorcodes in a car has puzzled me for a while. Suffice it to say when I put a 68,000microfarad capacitor across my battery (S-typeD) the odd MIL light and restricted performance I was getting has stopped altogether for more than six months now. Not even once!
Leedsman.
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#8
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
If your battery charger works on the constant-voltage charging system, which it should do when charging a lead-acid bettery, the charge limits itself to practically zero on reaching 14.4volt. (For a 12volt nominal battery). Of course, if it happened to be another technology such as nickel cadmium, lithium-ion, NIFE etc., that would not apply. Eg. nickel cadmium and nickel-metal hydride use a smart charging system that tests the battery voltage under load for a second or two when the charge cycle is finished.
The reason why a battery can be responsible for all sorts of random errorcodes in a car has puzzled me for a while. Suffice it to say when I put a 68,000microfarad capacitor across my battery (S-typeD) the odd MIL light and restricted performance I was getting has stopped altogether for more than six months now. Not even once!
Leedsman.
The reason why a battery can be responsible for all sorts of random errorcodes in a car has puzzled me for a while. Suffice it to say when I put a 68,000microfarad capacitor across my battery (S-typeD) the odd MIL light and restricted performance I was getting has stopped altogether for more than six months now. Not even once!
Leedsman.
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Jzar
XJ XJ8 / XJR ( X308 )
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09-27-2015 02:55 PM
2011, 68000, battery, charger, charging, clitches, diesel, jaguar, load, microfarad, microfared, performance, restricted, sport, type, voltage, xk
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