Coil Pack Failure, Again??
#41
03-22-2014, 02:08 AM
Veteran Member
Some people carry a spare. No need to change plug when a coil fails.
Same problem and outcome with any modern car when a coil fails. Happened to my mum with a Renault.
All you could do would be to design engines that don't have failing parts. As things are, something's going to fail sooner or later, same as in the past (remember carrying a spare fan belt?).
Same problem and outcome with any modern car when a coil fails. Happened to my mum with a Renault.
All you could do would be to design engines that don't have failing parts. As things are, something's going to fail sooner or later, same as in the past (remember carrying a spare fan belt?).
#42
04-14-2014, 09:27 AM
Member
This weekend my Jag, which, by the way, has been running extremely smooth, suddenly went into restricted performance. As I limped home, I started to smell wire burning. My first thought a fire will develop in engine. Nope. Turned out to be a coil pack.
The coil pack melted and basically was being help on by the bolt. Once I removed bolt, I found the coil pack was in two sections with the boot part still on the car. I have attached photos.
My question: Can the car be driven 50 miles to the mechanic without any serious damage? Also, do i need to tape up the 4 pin connector or secure it?
The coil pack melted and basically was being help on by the bolt. Once I removed bolt, I found the coil pack was in two sections with the boot part still on the car. I have attached photos.
My question: Can the car be driven 50 miles to the mechanic without any serious damage? Also, do i need to tape up the 4 pin connector or secure it?
Last edited by chromedragon; 04-14-2014 at 09:29 AM.
#43
04-14-2014, 10:48 AM
#44
04-14-2014, 10:51 AM
Veteran Member
Why not cut out the remaining boot and remove and replace the plug and install a new coil pack? Use caution not to damage the plug or the tube it is in. You removed the top and the rest should not be difficult. I must sey I have never seen that type of damage I would wonder why it did that, water or oil.
#45
04-14-2014, 01:21 PM
This weekend my Jag, which, by the way, has been running extremely smooth, suddenly went into restricted performance. As I limped home, I started to smell wire burning. My first thought a fire will develop in engine. Nope. Turned out to be a coil pack.
The coil pack melted and basically was being help on by the bolt. Once I removed bolt, I found the coil pack was in two sections with the boot part still on the car. I have attached photos.
My question: Can the car be driven 50 miles to the mechanic without any serious damage? Also, do i need to tape up the 4 pin connector or secure it?
The coil pack melted and basically was being help on by the bolt. Once I removed bolt, I found the coil pack was in two sections with the boot part still on the car. I have attached photos.
My question: Can the car be driven 50 miles to the mechanic without any serious damage? Also, do i need to tape up the 4 pin connector or secure it?
#47
04-14-2014, 03:43 PM
Veteran Member
#48
04-15-2014, 09:32 AM
Member
Unfortunately I am unable to remove the boot that has melted and changed form. It would be my luck I break the spark plug. :-( The mechanics taht put it in are about 50 miles away. I live in a rural area with backyard and weekend warrior mechanics. It is like going into a stick and stab bar. Just don't do it with a car like that!
I thought about the fuel being dumped in that cylinder but I have no idea how to plug it.
The coil is 4 months old and physically different in size, but it may only be smaller due to the coil pack itself.
I read somewhere that the harness that runs to the firewall can move a little, thus rubbing and wearing out jackets of wires. I do not see any looseness in the harness but i am going to recheck.
I am nervous about driving it. The distance is straight highway until the last part which it 2 miles.
I guess the part was just defective.
I thought about the fuel being dumped in that cylinder but I have no idea how to plug it.
The coil is 4 months old and physically different in size, but it may only be smaller due to the coil pack itself.
I read somewhere that the harness that runs to the firewall can move a little, thus rubbing and wearing out jackets of wires. I do not see any looseness in the harness but i am going to recheck.
I am nervous about driving it. The distance is straight highway until the last part which it 2 miles.
I guess the part was just defective.
#49
04-15-2014, 09:59 AM
Veteran Member
#51
04-16-2014, 07:33 AM
Member
#52
04-16-2014, 12:27 PM
#53
04-18-2014, 07:38 AM
Member
Well after much scraping, picking, pressing and cutting, I got the melted plastic out. never thought I would combine the tiny tools I use in engineering to work on this part of my car! :-)
I did end up bringing out the vacuum cleaner, attaching a long tube to the end to use down the hold to clean all plastic bits and debris. I wanted NONE of that falling into cylinder when spark was to be pulled.
The mechanics told to me to take it easy and I left yesterday for work. As long as I stayed below 3000 RPM, the car ran without any noticible effects other than the feeling that I was on a slighly rougher road.
The fuel bothered me and I found the cruise control to be a big help, better than my foot, for gauging how much I needed to press the gas pedal.
All in all, now that I have seen how the coil pack comes out and such, I will not attempt this driving endevour again. I was constantly in stress and I have NEVER talked that much to my car!
"You can do it girl!" "That's a good girl" "Just a few more miles"
I did end up bringing out the vacuum cleaner, attaching a long tube to the end to use down the hold to clean all plastic bits and debris. I wanted NONE of that falling into cylinder when spark was to be pulled.
The mechanics told to me to take it easy and I left yesterday for work. As long as I stayed below 3000 RPM, the car ran without any noticible effects other than the feeling that I was on a slighly rougher road.
The fuel bothered me and I found the cruise control to be a big help, better than my foot, for gauging how much I needed to press the gas pedal.
All in all, now that I have seen how the coil pack comes out and such, I will not attempt this driving endevour again. I was constantly in stress and I have NEVER talked that much to my car!
"You can do it girl!" "That's a good girl" "Just a few more miles"
#54
04-18-2014, 03:17 PM
Veteran Member
#55
04-19-2014, 09:04 AM
Member
#56
04-19-2014, 09:33 AM
#58
04-20-2014, 02:29 PM
Veteran Member
#59
02-12-2015, 02:22 AM
Junior Member
I have the 2000 s type with 4.0 and just started having misfires again. There was water moisture getting in at the windshield cowl and it got down to the engine on the passenger 's side cover to the spark plugs. I used black silicone sealant on the oval caps on the cowl and blue gasket maker on the coil/spark plug cover. I think the moisture would evaporate befour I went after the "misfiring cyclinder" making me think it was the bad coil.
After months of hassles ... a solution {for my XType}... my local garage says that the problem is moisture getting into the coils ... but ----- HOW was always my question??? It would seem that the "cowling" if that is the right word has deteriorated around the camshaft cover ... a bit like the lip on a cup, above the handle. It's cracked and flattened.
Local garage advises to get a new Camshaft cover, but really ... that is not the solution. The solution I'd have thought would be to remedy the windshield issue ?? Did you ever get a resolution on this properly ???
#60
02-23-2015, 06:15 AM
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
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The windscreen trough leaks water onto the engine in pre 02 models and causing the coils to go happened to me twice before I was told I found a youtube video of how to fix the leak problem solved 5 quid for a tube of mastic is better than 300 for jaguar coils and plugs
As many of you remember I replaced all my coil packs and spark plugs less than a year ago. I bought the coil packs from www.rockauto.com. I bought the more expensive brand they offered thinking the quality would be better. One of the coil packs was defective right out of the box! After replacing it the replacement lasted about a month and it too failed. SO I bought a coil pack from a local Auto Zone, re-did the job for the 3rd time and all has been well now for almost a year, maybe less.
Now, the engine is mis-firing again anf the "restricted performance" message is coming on. If I clear the codes with my scan tool the car runs again (no restricted performance or engine light) but I can feel the engine "missing" as it runs at low RPM's, then it clears up at highway speeds. I'm still getting 23.5 MPG according to the driver information center so it can't be running that bad, right? But then about the time I think it's going to be OK.........WHAM!!! The car starts jerking and the "restricted performance" code is lit up again.
I am getting codes P301 (cyl 1 misfire) and P303 (cyl 3 misfire) and 1313 (lean surge). My question to the experts is............before I change the 2 offending coil packs out again, is there anything else that could cause the cylinder misfire codes to appear? I'm thinking the coil packs either work or they don't but I want to be sure I'm treating the cause and not just the symptom. Anyone??? Anyone??? Bueller???
Thanks in advance!
Now, the engine is mis-firing again anf the "restricted performance" message is coming on. If I clear the codes with my scan tool the car runs again (no restricted performance or engine light) but I can feel the engine "missing" as it runs at low RPM's, then it clears up at highway speeds. I'm still getting 23.5 MPG according to the driver information center so it can't be running that bad, right? But then about the time I think it's going to be OK.........WHAM!!! The car starts jerking and the "restricted performance" code is lit up again.
I am getting codes P301 (cyl 1 misfire) and P303 (cyl 3 misfire) and 1313 (lean surge). My question to the experts is............before I change the 2 offending coil packs out again, is there anything else that could cause the cylinder misfire codes to appear? I'm thinking the coil packs either work or they don't but I want to be sure I'm treating the cause and not just the symptom. Anyone??? Anyone??? Bueller???
Thanks in advance!