coils
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If you use them please post back.
The LS guys have used Accel coils but they are big and yellow so the coil covers won't fit back on. Looks awkward under the hood.
As was posted above I have yet to see any coil perform better than factory? Even if they have higher voltage output the plug only take so much to fire. Anything above that is just not needed.
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The LS guys have used Accel coils but they are big and yellow so the coil covers won't fit back on. Looks awkward under the hood.
As was posted above I have yet to see any coil perform better than factory? Even if they have higher voltage output the plug only take so much to fire. Anything above that is just not needed.
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#8
Isn't oem motor craft? seems that I am seeing a lot of motor craft parts on the car. Nothing wrong with ford parts, I use to own a Lincoln Navigator 4x4 and a Ford Thunderbird as well as a Chevy Camaro and a Chevy K1500 4x4 ext short bed pickup. The first foreign cars I went too was my current Hondas and my Jaguar. I thought about staying strictly oem and nothing wrong with that. My adoptive parents have a 70 cuda in their garage and a Mustang GT convertible. This Jaguar is going to be my baby and I want it to be fast even though its not a "R" but good on fuel, I am not looking to race it, drift it or anything like that just be quick and look good. Fast cars run in my family from Corvettes to Road Runners, I strayed away and went with Luxury cars. I am sure eying the Jaguar F type r though and the corvette stingray....
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Keep in mind that Ford had a large ownership share in Jaguar through 2008, so you will indeed see many Ford parts in your car as you perform maintenance and repairs. But there's not much you can do to soup up an S-Type 3.0. If you want more power, you'll have to get an STR....
Your 3.0 is a Ford Duratech engine (built in Cleveland, Ohio) with variable valve timing and intake manifold tuner valves added. In fact, if your intake manifold tuner valve O-rings are the factory-supplied yellow-colored ones, you need to replace them with the newer-and-thicker green-colored ones. Otherwise they will leak oil, suffer from vacuum leaks, and throw misfire codes. Search the S-Type forum using "IMT O-ring replacement" and you'll learn about the two different ways to do this....
Your 3.0 is a Ford Duratech engine (built in Cleveland, Ohio) with variable valve timing and intake manifold tuner valves added. In fact, if your intake manifold tuner valve O-rings are the factory-supplied yellow-colored ones, you need to replace them with the newer-and-thicker green-colored ones. Otherwise they will leak oil, suffer from vacuum leaks, and throw misfire codes. Search the S-Type forum using "IMT O-ring replacement" and you'll learn about the two different ways to do this....
Last edited by Jon89; 01-29-2014 at 02:32 PM.
#10
Isn't oem motor craft? seems that I am seeing a lot of motor craft parts on the car. Nothing wrong with ford parts, I use to own a Lincoln Navigator 4x4 and a Ford Thunderbird as well as a Chevy Camaro and a Chevy K1500 4x4 ext short bed pickup. The first foreign cars I went too was my current Hondas and my Jaguar. I thought about staying strictly oem and nothing wrong with that. My adoptive parents have a 70 cuda in their garage and a Mustang GT convertible. This Jaguar is going to be my baby and I want it to be fast even though its not a "R" but good on fuel, I am not looking to race it, drift it or anything like that just be quick and look good. Fast cars run in my family from Corvettes to Road Runners, I strayed away and went with Luxury cars. I am sure eying the Jaguar F type r though and the corvette stingray....
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Try fitting the crappy kind of coils and you'll find out. If you're lucky you'll get codes soonish but if unlucky your cat(s) will be dead first.
Sometimes cheap is a false economy.
Energy is needed because the fuel/air mixture won't ignite either at all (extreme case) or soon enough. The energy has to raise the mixture temperature to the point it burns.
Maybe you can grasp this: when you see flashes from static electricity in some clothing. It doesn't ignite because there's not enough energy.
You do want the fuel/air mixture to ignite properly. Well, I do even if you don't.
Sometimes cheap is a false economy.
Energy is needed because the fuel/air mixture won't ignite either at all (extreme case) or soon enough. The energy has to raise the mixture temperature to the point it burns.
Maybe you can grasp this: when you see flashes from static electricity in some clothing. It doesn't ignite because there's not enough energy.
You do want the fuel/air mixture to ignite properly. Well, I do even if you don't.
Last edited by JagV8; 02-02-2014 at 09:52 AM.
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#18
I agree! My cheap coils work just fine and fit like OEM. They did not have a picture of Leonard Nimoy on them (i.e. Spock) and I am not sure if they had "pure energy".
Some people like to rationalize why they spend hundreds and hundreds of dollars, wasted, like "some people" here.
hee hee
Some people like to rationalize why they spend hundreds and hundreds of dollars, wasted, like "some people" here.
hee hee
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