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coils on one head not firing

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Old 07-23-2015, 12:32 PM
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Default coils on one head not firing

I am have a problem with the coil on the right none of them are getting any fire to them can someone help me with this
 
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Old 07-23-2015, 01:12 PM
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Welcome to the forum CARTERZAC, you'll need to give some more clues to model year etc before you will get any help.
Don't forget that intro in the new members section also.
 
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Old 07-23-2015, 01:52 PM
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2004 S Type V8
 
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Old 07-23-2015, 01:53 PM
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I have moved coil and they will work on the left side
 
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Old 07-23-2015, 03:40 PM
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Did this just happen or has any work been done on the car?
 
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Old 07-23-2015, 04:34 PM
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You have your answer. It's not the coils so check what feeds the coils on that side of the engine.


Do the simple things first.
Are you getting power to the coils?
Can you measure power on the side that is working?


Let us know what you find out.
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Old 07-23-2015, 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Norri
Did this just happen or has any work been done on the car?
I was driving home and it started to miss very bad
 
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Old 07-23-2015, 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by CARTERZAC
I am have a problem with the coil on the right none of them are getting any fire to them can someone help me with this
How do you know?
 
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Old 07-24-2015, 06:58 AM
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I unplug one coil on the right side and the engine cut back but when I unplug the ones on the Left side the engine do no change
 
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Old 07-24-2015, 11:12 AM
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OK. Get your meter out and trace back the wires.


Sounds like one side has no power. That should be easy to find as long as it stays that way.
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Old 07-25-2015, 05:26 AM
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Obviously - check fuses etc!
 
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Old 07-26-2015, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by CarterZaC
I was driving home and it started to miss very bad
Any luck yet? Was the Check Engine Light (CEL) illuminated? If you have a misfire you could feel, at least one code should have been set. It's vital to retrieve the diagnostic code with a code reader, or preferably a scanner. I've had other cars set a misfire code and I couldn't even tell. The engine's monitoring system is WAY more sensitive than our human senses.

Also, was the CEL flashing? If so, that is bad. This means the computer has determined a misfire is bad enough to be dumping raw fuel into the catalytic converter, and most likely damaging it. The flashing light is meant to get your attention so you let off the throttle and pull over as soon as you can safely do so.

I originally thought you may have had a wiring issue affecting multiple coils, but all 8 coils share a common power supply and ground connection. Details are in section 3.4 of this wiring diagram:

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...x2062004en.pdf

Unless you have a break in the harness on that side, I doubt the wiring is at fault.

My hunch is there was nothing wrong with the coils you swapped around, and all were properly firing no matter their location. Read this Jaguar guide describing the misfire monitor, on pages OBD.22 and .23:

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Trai...20-%202000.pdf


Specifically, during an event that causes the CEL to flash, this is what happens:

"These systems will also inhibit fuel injection on up to two misfiring cylinders to prevent catalyst damage."

The fuel supply to the suspect cylinders is shut down, but not the ignition. When you mentioned disconnecting a coil on the good side and it caused even rougher running, that's because your V8 was only running on 6 cylinders and you disabled one of the good ones, creating a V5.

Also, if I may, permit me to get up on my Misfire Soapbox[tm]. (Forum regulars, you've already heard this rant and have time to step out for a smoke or potty break. If you're going to stick around anyway, please help me out by humming The Battle Hymn of the Republic in the background, as it helps set a proper no-nonsense tone for my epic tome on the injustice of the "misfire" nomenclature. Thanks)

If the computer has set a misfire code, please be aware "misfire" wasn't the best terminology that could have been used. Misfire sounds like an ignition problem, at least to me, meaning the fuel and compression were there, but for whatever reason, the required spark was missing or weak. This might lead an aspiring mechanic to troubleshoot the daylights out of a perfectly good ignition system. I do not care to discuss how I know this.

In OBD-speak, misfire simply means one or more cylinders is putting out low power compared to the others. You can read more details of the misfire monitor at the second link listed above. Pretty much anything affecting the output of a cylinder can set a misfire code. It can be low compression. It can be a valve not opening fully. It could be a clogged fuel injector. And yes, it could be an ignition problem, too, but don't overlook the other possibilities, too.

Okay, let me climb down from my soapbox now. This thing really needs safety rails, as much as I'm up here...

So if I haven't lost you yet, please let us know about the Check Engine Light and what fault codes were set. If you don't have a scanner or code reader, many auto parts stores (Autozone, for example) will read out the codes for free.
 
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Old 07-26-2015, 03:22 PM
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+1 that misfire is a description of any of several issues, all resulting in unburned mixture

It can even be an already-damaged cat, upsetting the ability to burn the fuel/air mixture.
 
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Old 07-26-2015, 08:11 PM
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What codes are stored in the system? If the MIL is on, there are DTCs that have been set.

If the MIL is flashing, do not operate the vehicle under those conditions until the source of the misfire(s), vacuum leak(s) is found and corrected. Flashing MIL means neat petrol is being dumped into the catalyst for that bank causing permanent catalyst damage.
 
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