Collision Repair Photos
#41
I just have to say that thank God for this place! I have been perusing the JTIS manual. Not impressed at all. Maybe I'm doing something wrong but seems like a lot of things skipped over. Tells you remove something and shows a illustration of it but not how. Can't find any mention of the airbag system.
And the MG guys bitch about the Haynes Manual!
And the MG guys bitch about the Haynes Manual!
#42
It certainly won't hurt...but I've done both long-version (pulling the upper-intake manifold) and short version (pulling the cowl) and don't recall the hood causing much of an obstacle. On the other hand, if you actually DO complete it in 10 mins...do me a favor and swear it was cuz the hood was off....I'll feel better....
My leaf-storage hole was pretty dry and managed to get it with the shop vac and crevice attachment..PITA though....basically, it was stick the snout down there, get a leaf, pull it off the nozzle, repeat.
I changed the coolant expansion tank on my daughter's 03 over Christmas, no leak, but the wife's 05 had already leaked, and since she is away at college, thought it can't last much longer....hafta say....I was MIGHTY tempted to swap hers with the wife's b/c labor-wise, it is nothing, (10 min, maybe!!) but part cost is near $100...and if the wife's springs a leak, no big deal, it is here...in the end..I did the right thing, though.
My leaf-storage hole was pretty dry and managed to get it with the shop vac and crevice attachment..PITA though....basically, it was stick the snout down there, get a leaf, pull it off the nozzle, repeat.
I changed the coolant expansion tank on my daughter's 03 over Christmas, no leak, but the wife's 05 had already leaked, and since she is away at college, thought it can't last much longer....hafta say....I was MIGHTY tempted to swap hers with the wife's b/c labor-wise, it is nothing, (10 min, maybe!!) but part cost is near $100...and if the wife's springs a leak, no big deal, it is here...in the end..I did the right thing, though.
#43
It certainly won't hurt...but I've done both long-version (pulling the upper-intake manifold) and short version (pulling the cowl) and don't recall the hood causing much of an obstacle. On the other hand, if you actually DO complete it in 10 mins...do me a favor and swear it was cuz the hood was off....I'll feel better....
My leaf-storage hole was pretty dry and managed to get it with the shop vac and crevice attachment..PITA though....basically, it was stick the snout down there, get a leaf, pull it off the nozzle, repeat.
I changed the coolant expansion tank on my daughter's 03 over Christmas, no leak, but the wife's 05 had already leaked, and since she is away at college, thought it can't last much longer....hafta say....I was MIGHTY tempted to swap hers with the wife's b/c labor-wise, it is nothing, (10 min, maybe!!) but part cost is near $100...and if the wife's springs a leak, no big deal, it is here...in the end..I did the right thing, though.
My leaf-storage hole was pretty dry and managed to get it with the shop vac and crevice attachment..PITA though....basically, it was stick the snout down there, get a leaf, pull it off the nozzle, repeat.
I changed the coolant expansion tank on my daughter's 03 over Christmas, no leak, but the wife's 05 had already leaked, and since she is away at college, thought it can't last much longer....hafta say....I was MIGHTY tempted to swap hers with the wife's b/c labor-wise, it is nothing, (10 min, maybe!!) but part cost is near $100...and if the wife's springs a leak, no big deal, it is here...in the end..I did the right thing, though.
I agree with the coolant expansion tank swap on your daughter's car.
Bodyman: The bottom of the coolant expansion tank has one of those quick release clamps, be gentle that hose matrix tends to be brittle (if you do decide to get into it).
I bought my S-Type from the auction with a busted tank, and realized it on the ride home when I got the coolant level warning light, and the car stunk of coolant. Pulled over at a gas station and half the motor was wet. I was cursing till I realized that it still had 99% of the coolant, thinking I had bought something with a bad radiator, but the temp was holding steady.
Where did you find the tank for under $100? That's the one Jag part I grossly overpaid for because I needed it urgently, and I wasn't too into the Jag world at that time.
Take carem
George
#44
Motorcarman gave me a discount when he was changing my daughter's xmsn fluid and tossed one in the boot for $96. So I guess my avg. is still over $100. How bad did you get soaked? I can see it, just having bought it and trying to get it back home....but as you found out...when they DO leak (not IF) it's a slow one...didn't feel like feeding coolant the rest of the way home? (Oh...that's right....can't just grab that JAg orange coolant off the shelf at a truck stop, eh?)
#45
yabbut....yagotta spend awhile yankin' and cursin' at the wipers to come off, then...you see that pocket of leaves...and say to yourself (if not to another) "I better clean that out.." and go putterin' round the shop lookin for the vac and it's attachments...then you realize it also needs to be cleaned out..and a new plug wouldn't hurt on the end of that cord...and...and...pretty soon...."10 mins" has shot the whole afternoon! lol..I thought you probably meant just the o-ring change considering the state of his car....still.....I read about what all Rick gets done.....and also over on the Diesel board, "Wha...I chained' mah glow plugs and UVCH's agin...in 30 min...took me ah harh and haif the first time..." and i feel so....inadequate!!! lol
(Oh...that's right....can't just grab that JAg orange coolant off the shelf at a truck stop, eh?)
(Oh...that's right....can't just grab that JAg orange coolant off the shelf at a truck stop, eh?)
I know the feeling. Left out the part of spending 15 minutes looking for my reading glasses since I can't see crap without em.
Coolant looks like that GM Dexcool crap. I'm sure that would be way too cheap for a Jaguar.
Well I found the heater valve & it looks dry. Coolant tank looks OK too...so far. Granted only 20 thou on the clock but all this stuff you guys are talking about got jolted around pretty well. At this stage I am just thrilled not to find anymore broken stuff.
I'll have to call on the O-Rings. For some reason I'm not finding anything to do with the intake manifold on the dealer website.
#46
I bought 4 from Autobahn Motorcars just before Christmas
list: $4.79 ea. but Joe sold 'em to me for $3.15 ea.
You'll only need 2, I was doing both cars.
#47
yabbut....yagotta spend awhile yankin' and cursin' at the wipers to come off, then...you see that pocket of leaves...and say to yourself (if not to another) "I better clean that out.." and go putterin' round the shop lookin for the vac and it's attachments...then you realize it also needs to be cleaned out..and a new plug wouldn't hurt on the end of that cord...and...and...pretty soon...."10 mins" has shot the whole afternoon! lol..I thought you probably meant just the o-ring change considering the state of his car....still.....I read about what all Rick gets done.....and also over on the Diesel board, "Wha...I chained' mah glow plugs and UVCH's agin...in 30 min...took me ah harh and haif the first time..." and i feel so....inadequate!!! lol
"Brittle" is the key. I've found the 3.0L coolant hoses, devices and fittings are actually made of dried oatmeal rather than a plastic compound. At least it surely, as someone here observed, doesn't last as long as Walmart bags in the landfill. Since you are going to keep it and put the li'l lady in it...you may want to take your VIN and determine if you need the $125 or $225 rad hose asy (includes thermostat and housing...but that's how they sell it..) although maybe there are some aftermarket solutions now that are more affordable. Just a thought since you have it exposed. The problem I had was the nipple on the rad hose assy that feeds the exp tank. However, the whole injection molding was pretty brittle/crumbly.
Wife's was $109 from Autobahn Jaguar - the "local" dealer down in FTW.
Motorcarman gave me a discount when he was changing my daughter's xmsn fluid and tossed one in the boot for $96. So I guess my avg. is still over $100. How bad did you get soaked? I can see it, just having bought it and trying to get it back home....but as you found out...when they DO leak (not IF) it's a slow one...didn't feel like feeding coolant the rest of the way home? (Oh...that's right....can't just grab that JAg orange coolant off the shelf at a truck stop, eh?)
"Brittle" is the key. I've found the 3.0L coolant hoses, devices and fittings are actually made of dried oatmeal rather than a plastic compound. At least it surely, as someone here observed, doesn't last as long as Walmart bags in the landfill. Since you are going to keep it and put the li'l lady in it...you may want to take your VIN and determine if you need the $125 or $225 rad hose asy (includes thermostat and housing...but that's how they sell it..) although maybe there are some aftermarket solutions now that are more affordable. Just a thought since you have it exposed. The problem I had was the nipple on the rad hose assy that feeds the exp tank. However, the whole injection molding was pretty brittle/crumbly.
Wife's was $109 from Autobahn Jaguar - the "local" dealer down in FTW.
Motorcarman gave me a discount when he was changing my daughter's xmsn fluid and tossed one in the boot for $96. So I guess my avg. is still over $100. How bad did you get soaked? I can see it, just having bought it and trying to get it back home....but as you found out...when they DO leak (not IF) it's a slow one...didn't feel like feeding coolant the rest of the way home? (Oh...that's right....can't just grab that JAg orange coolant off the shelf at a truck stop, eh?)
Funny thing is once the coolant level gets low enough so it doesn't go to the return line, the leak basically stops...
I actually nursed the car the 80 miles home. BUT I decided that I needed the tank asap. I called the dealer here $208 (I think + tax). So I looked online, and found the first website that had it and paid $170 I think with expedited shipping.
Oh and the Jaguar coolant is just Zerex G-05 in a white bottle. You can get it at any parts store .
When My X-Type decided to break both nipples off, on a Saturday afternoon, I was more prepared. Reamed the holes out a bit, and used 1/4 (I think) ****** brass air line fittings on both sides, set them in place with JB weld. Waited two hours, put it back together, and it held fine. Matter of fact it was still fine a week later when the replacement tank I bought off of ebay for cheap arrived
And yes, that was simply taking the valves out (once everything is out of the way) and replacing the rings and sticking them back in.
Take care,
George
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aholbro1 (02-26-2011)
#48
Same here...started leaving a pair in the car, pair in the shop, pair at work...lol and still have a pair I carry with...
C2S40669 "Seal"
I bought 4 from Autobahn Motorcars just before Christmas
list: $4.79 ea. but Joe sold 'em to me for $3.15 ea.
You'll only need 2, I was doing both cars.
C2S40669 "Seal"
I bought 4 from Autobahn Motorcars just before Christmas
list: $4.79 ea. but Joe sold 'em to me for $3.15 ea.
You'll only need 2, I was doing both cars.
And the coolant like I mentioned before is Zerex G-05
Take care,
George
#49
I too had the cracked nipple @ the expansion tank return line. BUT it was a slow leak that had been going on for a long time, and as you know, you have to have the tank pretty damn full to appease the low coolant warning sensor, so whoever took it to the auction topped it up, and sent it on its way through the lane. When the car got warm and started driving it spilled that top part out, so there was coolant everywhere.
Funny thing is once the coolant level gets low enough so it doesn't go to the return line, the leak basically stops...
I actually nursed the car the 80 miles home. BUT I decided that I needed the tank asap. I called the dealer here $208 (I think + tax). So I looked online, and found the first website that had it and paid $170 I think with expedited shipping.
Oh and the Jaguar coolant is just Zerex G-05 in a white bottle. You can get it at any parts store .
When My X-Type decided to break both nipples off, on a Saturday afternoon, I was more prepared. Reamed the holes out a bit, and used 1/4 (I think) ****** brass air line fittings on both sides, set them in place with JB weld. Waited two hours, put it back together, and it held fine. Matter of fact it was still fine a week later when the replacement tank I bought off of ebay for cheap arrived
And yes, that was simply taking the valves out (once everything is out of the way) and replacing the rings and sticking them back in.
Take care,
George
Funny thing is once the coolant level gets low enough so it doesn't go to the return line, the leak basically stops...
I actually nursed the car the 80 miles home. BUT I decided that I needed the tank asap. I called the dealer here $208 (I think + tax). So I looked online, and found the first website that had it and paid $170 I think with expedited shipping.
Oh and the Jaguar coolant is just Zerex G-05 in a white bottle. You can get it at any parts store .
When My X-Type decided to break both nipples off, on a Saturday afternoon, I was more prepared. Reamed the holes out a bit, and used 1/4 (I think) ****** brass air line fittings on both sides, set them in place with JB weld. Waited two hours, put it back together, and it held fine. Matter of fact it was still fine a week later when the replacement tank I bought off of ebay for cheap arrived
And yes, that was simply taking the valves out (once everything is out of the way) and replacing the rings and sticking them back in.
Take care,
George
Take care,
George
#51
#52
Glad you mentioned it....until you did, I thought some of the Brits that (properly) use that word were just oversensitive and thought we were all a bunch of rubes with limited monosyllabic vocabulary command, and were thus self-editing! Glad to learn otherwise...
maybe the close proximity to the last bit of "Brass" set it off? Perhaps saw it as a reference to Barb's posterior?
#54
Another installment.
Checking the frt structure for alignment. Checks out square.
After some fiddling, the sheetmetal lines up fairly well. The left fender took some damage from the hood. I'll have to take it off to repair. That should fix the wide gap at the rear. Had to do some BFH adjustment to the tie bar to get the hood sitting down where it belongs in the front.
Another angle. I'm pretty excited and wish I could keep going. But there is a Benz M class coming in tommorow for a fender repair and some paint work. I hate to stop when I'm on a roll. For me, being motivated is half the battle.
Checking the frt structure for alignment. Checks out square.
After some fiddling, the sheetmetal lines up fairly well. The left fender took some damage from the hood. I'll have to take it off to repair. That should fix the wide gap at the rear. Had to do some BFH adjustment to the tie bar to get the hood sitting down where it belongs in the front.
Another angle. I'm pretty excited and wish I could keep going. But there is a Benz M class coming in tommorow for a fender repair and some paint work. I hate to stop when I'm on a roll. For me, being motivated is half the battle.
Last edited by Bodyman; 02-27-2011 at 01:36 PM.
#56
Another installment.
Checking the frt structure for alignment. Checks out square.
After some fiddling, the sheetmetal lines up fairly well. The left fender took some damage from the hood. I'll have to take it off to repair. That should fix the wide gap at the rear. Had to do some BFH adjustment to the tie bar to get the hood sitting down where it belongs in the front.
Another angle. I'm pretty excited and wish I could keep going. But there is a Benz M class coming in tommorow for a fender repair and some paint work. I hate to stop when I'm on a roll. For me, being motivated is half the battle.
Checking the frt structure for alignment. Checks out square.
After some fiddling, the sheetmetal lines up fairly well. The left fender took some damage from the hood. I'll have to take it off to repair. That should fix the wide gap at the rear. Had to do some BFH adjustment to the tie bar to get the hood sitting down where it belongs in the front.
Another angle. I'm pretty excited and wish I could keep going. But there is a Benz M class coming in tommorow for a fender repair and some paint work. I hate to stop when I'm on a roll. For me, being motivated is half the battle.
Which panel gap are you concerned with? The fender to hood? Or the fender to door? Seems like the hood is ok but the top of the door to fender is a bit off, but its so hard to tell in pics.
Is there a bit of damage on the bottom of the passenger door, or are my eyes playing tricks on me.
My 500sl the hood sits about 1/4" High on the passenger side, and I've been meaning to try to see what I could do about it, but I'm waiting for the weather to get better. Any suggestions would be appreciated..
Take care,
George
#57
Yeah it's hard to see a lot of detail from what I shot. The left /drivers fender has a large gap between the hood by the hinge. Like I said, it got dinged up there but I'll have to pull the fender to fix it right. The new right fender has an even but wide gap between the hood. It fits the door OK except the very upper tip by the windshield is tight for some reason.
I was in kinda a hurry today because I needed to do oil changes on both our daily drivers. It'll need some tweaking for sure but I didn't get too involved since it all has to come back off to get the undersides and edges painted. I was anxious to see how things lined up and how the latches worked. Always fun when they start to look like a car again.
Yes there are a couple dents in the frt door, a light paint scuff on the rear one and a couple little dings in the dogleg. Plus the rear cover has a scuff at the right exhaust and the muffler got shoved forward. Not sure if it was a chain reaction or they just backed into something. I suspect the later. The right door has blue paint on it while the frt bumper had a streak of dark red. Further supports my theory of an elderly driver that has been driving short distances useing braile.
Not really familiar with that Benz. See if there is any adjustment to raise & lower the hinge. This Jag had a decent range of adjustment where the hinge bolted to the body. If not sometimes you have to resort to bending the hinge a bit.
I was in kinda a hurry today because I needed to do oil changes on both our daily drivers. It'll need some tweaking for sure but I didn't get too involved since it all has to come back off to get the undersides and edges painted. I was anxious to see how things lined up and how the latches worked. Always fun when they start to look like a car again.
Yes there are a couple dents in the frt door, a light paint scuff on the rear one and a couple little dings in the dogleg. Plus the rear cover has a scuff at the right exhaust and the muffler got shoved forward. Not sure if it was a chain reaction or they just backed into something. I suspect the later. The right door has blue paint on it while the frt bumper had a streak of dark red. Further supports my theory of an elderly driver that has been driving short distances useing braile.
Not really familiar with that Benz. See if there is any adjustment to raise & lower the hinge. This Jag had a decent range of adjustment where the hinge bolted to the body. If not sometimes you have to resort to bending the hinge a bit.
#59