Preparing to do the compressor and receiver dryer. 18 years not a bad run on both parts and only one re-gas; recently too but I should have checked the compressor for the dye and oil signs first before I wasted the money on the re-gas..
Should have also changed the dryer every 3 years, do a complete evacuation/flush and add some refrigerant oil as well in the process and the thing may have still kept going..


Any pointers doing it in my home garage? Don't want to drop the rack or release engine mount etc.
I know clubairth1removed it from the top without dropping the rack which the idea appeals to me, unsure if he released a engine mount bolt or something?
And I think Aarcuda in his write up changed over the position of the valve and spring in the compressor, not sure what was going on there either?

Struggling also to find a receiver dryer from the local suppliers, coming up as obsolete.
Anyone know of any Ford part numbers or any Ford Australia equivalent?
And unless I recondition the original compressor it looks like aftermarket is going to be the only option - the locally available ones are all Chinese made, and a ridiculous $480.. Anyone source one made in another country?
I know the Lincoln LS is the same compressor, same dryer as well?

Thanks!

 

Which engine is fitted to the vehicle?

 

4.2 Supercharged V8. S-Type R (pre production VIN).

 

Is the compressor leaking or did is break internally? If it broke internally, the condenser should also be changed along with the drier sac.

 

Details here, about halfway down in post #4:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...2/#post1714573

 

Thanks Gents.
It's always cooled very well for at least the first 16 years of the cars life, without one re-gas and at all speeds including idle.
Then the compressor started only coming on after about 1/2 hour into a drive.
I thought it may have had other issues but its first ever re-gas in April 2019 (car is a 2002.5) cured the compressor of taking 1/2 an hour or so to turn on.
Has been freezing and running very well since then.
I decided to stop paying attention to other areas of the car and have a good look underneath to fix a sagging bottom 'Valance Panel'.
That's when I noticed the green and yellow tell-tale signs. Plenty of green (and some yellow) too on the bottom 'valance panel'.

Still working well as I say and it's just leaking at this point (substantially) but I don't want to tempt fate and make a grenade of the compressor.
So just change the compressor and dryer? Leave the dryer sac?
New or reco compressor?
The new Chinese one only comes with a 12 months warranty here..

 

Good idea to replace the compressor before it seizes or comes apart internally.

Change the dryer sack and be sure to add sufficient refrigeration oil to the new compressor, which should be about 120 ml or so.

No experience with the aftermarket air conditioning compressors.

 

Are you positive the green and yellow stains are from refrigerant, and that the leak is current? Is this from a leak-detection dye added to the system? Not sure who else may have worked on the system, but perhaps it is old stuff from previous work to find a leak, and never properly cleaned off after repairs. Or maybe it's from a dye added to the engine oil or coolant, blown around by the fan, and once again never totally cleaned off. That's a big gotcha working with dye. You have to look for evidence of previous usage, clean that off, and then start from scratch. If not, you may end up chasing previous leaks that have already been repaired. Edit: Or if a leak is still active, it could be from another spot (such as a hose) but the dye is collecting elsewhere. With dye, it really helps to start with everything clean so you can pinpoint the origin.

Although dye works great (as long as you are aware of the limitations), another tactic is to use a refrigerant sniffer. I picked up one of these puppies for about $25 on Amazon:

https://www.elitechustore.com/produc...ir-hvac-tester




That's just one example of an inexpensive brand. There are many comparable versions out there that won't bankrupt you. The trick is to run the AC system for a few minutes to build up pressure and then shut off the engine. That way you can probe all around the system with no worries of moving parts. Let the car sit for a few hours and check the dash vents, too, in case the evaporator is leaking.

And Merry Christmas to ya!

 

Thanks' for the great advice on the pros and cons of 'dye', kr98664!
I've had the car from 24,000 miles and it came with a full Jaguar history.
Other than the Jaguar dealers I went to as well early in its life there have only been 2 mechanics touch the car and one panel beater (for some minor work).
As previously mentioned the mobile AC tech touched it as well when he re-gassed it in April 2019. He would have highly likely added the green dye.

To change the topic both mechanics have big busy workshops (one is a transmission specialist also). The panel beater is a client of mine and we have become friends.
I know no one's going to take the same care on my car as well as me but I can say that anything these blokes (and their staff) have all touched has been done with little care. It's quick in the workshop and quick out. The evidence of this is all there when I look.
Still looking for a quiet careful workshop (if that exists). Perhaps all this is for another post..

Back to the compressor. I had a good study this time. No compressor oil stains evident as I initially thought. Engine oil leak (likely sump) for sure. Green dye coming out of compressor for sure as well and has worked its way over to the sump cover and a few other spots.
Red/orange oil drips in the photos are actually engine oil that has been 'dyed' red from the red coolant I (partly) released when I changed the valley hose, both cam cover gaskets, thermostat, both drive belts and several other soft hoses.

I will follow your smart advice and now clean that whole area, probably buy that tool you suggested and keep a close watch.
The dye will keep coming out so there's got to be a refrigerant leak somewhere around that compressor area. Hopefully not the compressor but I doubt it..
How would you fix just a leaking compressor? You'd have to remove it.
And as there's likely no compressor oil stains yet (I assume this would be a yellow colour) how would I check or top up the oil level in this?

Green dye from AC system evident and working its way to the sump case. Compressor pulley and lines visible on top right of photo.


Engine oil leak. Likely stained red from coolant released that 'washed' over the oil.

Compressor pulley on top left of photo. Green dye in refrigerant surrounding compressor mounting bolt AC refrigerant lines, clips and engine sump case.

 

A few more photos showing more of the green dye below the compressor area:

 

I think the dye is from the factory. It was in mine when I got it but maybe its something a lot of places put in during a recharge.

but mine leaked at the front bearing behind the clutch.

its a bee itch to change on my 06 str. Many a new cuss words were created

 

Also, clean up the area as much as you can because that sheit is slippery as hell and youll be hqting life trying to finagle that heavy *** compressor out the tine gap.

there was no way id try to bring it out the top. Just doesnt seem to be enough room

 

The air conditioning compressor on the X200 must be removed from below.

 

Finally got the compressor out.
As I went to Scout's and Venturers, they taught me to 'be prepared' so I bought a (new) direct replacement beforehand from a major supplier here in Australia; but following the Scout's motto here means of course you cant do a direct comparison...
In all fairness to the supplier it only lists the S Type 4.0 litre V8. No listing in the catalogue for the S Type 4.2 but curiously the company (CoolDrive) do list a compressor for the XK8 and XKR 4.2.
This unit may be okay for the 4.0 ltr V8 and the NA 4.2 V8 but not ideal for the STR, where space is critical for fitting and removing. All the bolt shafts are 5mm longer (which I feared may make it harder for the bolts to clear the chassis rail), are missing the top 2 mounting lugs and the switch plate protrudes too far for my liking; the switch plate wedging on the AC lines plate gave me the most grief in removal. Also the pulley diameter is 20mm smaller; means it'll spin faster and maybe shorten its life? Who knows?
So I don't fancy paying 1,000 pounds ($2,000AUD) to buy direct from Jaguar and I doubt very much I can still find an original out there anywhere. I will go back to the supplier and see if I can find a closer match but it looks like I may have to recondition the old unit; it only seemed to be leaking from its front plate.

The compressor does look to be the same as the 6 Cyl 88-99 Ford Falcons and LTD's here in Australia as well as shared by other global Ford products such as most of the Fiesta, Focus, Mondeo and Transit ranges of vehicles, so shouldn't cost a fortune to recondition.



No mounting lugs on top bolt shafts. Bolt shafts are 5mm longer. No flared ring on suction side and protruded out further.

Smaller diameter clutch. Despite the smaller diameter clutch making the switch plate poke out a mile, upon measurement the switch plate still protrudes too far for my liking.

 

Sorry if I chuckle but I did the same thing and found out they were different in many aspects. But since the car was apart sucking up moisture I was desperate for a QUICK replacement. I couldn’t find an OEM compressor that I was willing to pay for since they were so outrageously priced I took my chance and went with an aftermarket from O’reillys.

and I’m happy to report it fits just like the original. it has worked well for about a year at least Soooooo I can attest that the O’Reillys brand works well for at least the short term ive had it

 

And if anyone needs a compressor for a 6cyl I have a good used one I dont need.

 

Yes, it's going to be exposed for some time while I wait for the compressor to be reconditioned but will keep the desiccant bag sealed until such time.
I will get a mobile tech to check and re-gas. I assume the procedure involves sucking out the moisture?
Some of the reco places I have noticed give the same 12 month warranty as the new compressor.
Any wise words of advice such as change some of the other O rings while it's all apart, Aarcuda?


Don't know if the good old US of A still makes them there? Likely all the 'direct replacement' compressors available new would be Chinese made now.



Photo of when I just unpacked it. Made in China. Looks like its reasonable quality.

 

Try to seal up the lines best you can. The less moisture that gets in the less you gotta suck out. Some refrigerant oils suck up moisture and you want to keep it sealed or else you have to flush and thats a pain in the ***. I also never do a full oring change. Only change orings if its leaking or its being disconnected and reconnected. I figure if its sealed then its sealed and I will just risk messing it up so I leave it.

im sure my rebuilt comp was probably chinese.

 

Okay, many thanks for the expert advice. Will only change the desiccant bag chamber nut's 2 o rings and on the joint under the LHS wheel arch which of course I had to loosen that line so I could move it out of the way to to get the compressor out. Curiously the wheel arch joint had a black and not the regular green o ring. Not sure why or if it's of a different compound?

Due to my apprehension in fitting a non identical direct replacement compressor in my STR I returned the compressor today to the retailer/distributor. They were pleasant to deal with and didn't have an issue as it wasn't installed. I then drove straight to the recommended reconditioners'. Of course it's less than half the price to repair in my case as seems like it's just the common Visteron scroll type compressor front seal issue that appears to be the problem; they'll likely give it a new bearing as well while they're at it. It was working very well and it's only done 70 thou miles.
It's not an perfect fix though, they're no longer fully reconditionable as one of the inner parts known as the fibrous 'wiper', which is in the same shape as the inner scroll in no longer available.. One of the staff who does the repair work there was telling me the reason these Visteron units commonly leak at the front seal is because of the way they're designed and he can modify them etc etc but it was 103 degrees here today and a huge truck entered his workshop bringing in another 30 degrees with its bonnet up I was keen to get out of there and continue the conversation another day.

It got me thinking that next time I'm at the wreckers and I see a low mileage compressor that was working well I may buy it for parts.
I know you've wacked in a likely Chinese made direct replacement but maybe that V6 compressor you've got has low enough mileage that you could pilfer some parts from to rebuild the your cars original? Does anyone know where to find a 'wiper' for this compressor??

 

How did you remove the compressor?

The STR has additional braces on the sub frame that the non SC cars do not have. And they are right in the way of the AC compressor! Maybe since yours is an early pre production STR these braces are not there? I think I do see them in your pictures? I removed both nuts on the engine mounts and then using a piece of plywood to protect the oil pan I could jack the engine up a pretty long ways to get more room.

Yes I removed mine from the top which did require also removing the PS pump but I did not touch the rack at all. I got a 3.9L Lincoln LS compressor from O'reillys which is identical and is way cheaper too. Never had anymore problem and sold the car some time later with everything still working fine.

Here is a pretty deep thread when I did mine if your interested?

AC Compressor Removal on STR
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