Hello!

I've had my S-type 4.2 for about 10k miles, and I'm having some issues, but I would like to see if I can just fix them myself before I pay the Jag specialist to do it.

First, my lower front control arm bushings are broken. I understand how to get to them, but is this something that I can do myself, without having to buy the tools that the JTIS says I need? I know in some cars it can be fairly straight forward to fix this at home.

Next, my unlock button on my key isn't very responsive. I was going to just buy a new lower half of the key and reprogram it. This should work right?

On the 2005 S-type 4.2, is it possible to get body matched bumper trim? I'm talking about the chrome strips on the bumper. I'm not a fan of the chrome. I've looked around and can't really find anything.

Finally, I'm going to most likely be replacing my pads soon. Do I just need a hammer and a punch? Apparently that's all you need when replacing the pads on the R, but I don't have that version of the car.

I have some pretty minor issues, I know, but I appreciate any help.

 

Concerning the key:

Please note that the key can only be programmed at the dealer.

I had the same problem with my key as well. When I opened it up, I noticed a green substance on the contact points for the lock and unlock buttons. I cleaned that off and it started working again.

Read this, and it will help out:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...-issues-53186/

 

Yes you can mostly DIY. (But not program a key.) Careful repair of pads/microswitches/etc is fine.

You probably don't have Brembo brakes so I think the front pistons push in but the back wind in - there are posts already about it.

You can replace the trim. Seem to recall posts but may need some creative Search to find them.

See Definitive wishbone ... sticky on UK forum re bushes etc.

Grab JTIS - free download on here - its the workshop manual.

 

Hammer and punch? That's kind of brutal and would almost certainly damage something. The front pistons are done with a c-clamp, the rear are retracted by rotating the pistons with a special tool.

 

I read that as referring to driving out pad retaining pins: which the non-R version doesn't have.

I did my front pads last week - I used a 12mm (may have been 13mm) spanner (wrench) to remove the top caliper securing bolt and then pivoted the caliper up. The new pads just dropped into place in the carrier and I pushed the pistons back in using two C-clamps and refitted the caliper. Overall, a VERY easy job.

Remember to reseat the pistons by pumping the brake pedal before driving off