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coolant expansion tank Question

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  #1  
Old 04-01-2010, 10:29 PM
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Default coolant expansion tank Question

Doing an oil change on my 2005-s-type 3.0 and noticed a bit of leakage near the vent hose. had no idea and we thought it was the hoes. Put it back, after looking at it on i have a little more water. is it easier to replace the tank or to refit the nipple that I have read is the problem. I do not have a huge leak, but it will not get better and I am afraid i made it slightly worse. I saw a post where someone talked about refitting the nipple with a part from Ace and they had photos, but they had been removed. Can someone give me some guidance.

Thanks

Tom in Dallas
 
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Old 04-01-2010, 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by jazzwineman
Doing an oil change on my 2005-s-type 3.0 and noticed a bit of leakage near the vent hose. had no idea and we thought it was the hoes. Put it back, after looking at it on i have a little more water. is it easier to replace the tank or to refit the nipple that I have read is the problem. I do not have a huge leak, but it will not get better and I am afraid i made it slightly worse. I saw a post where someone talked about refitting the nipple with a part from Ace and they had photos, but they had been removed. Can someone give me some guidance.

Thanks

Tom in Dallas
Replace the tank. I replaced the nipples on my X type with brass 1/4 ****** fittings for air hose sealed with JB weld, and it lasted a few weeks, but I only did it as a temporary measure because I couldn't find a replacement tank that day. I replaced the tank with one I ordered online. With the X-Type both the nipples were gone off the tank and it was pissing coolant badly.

My S-Type had the exact leak which you describe when I got it. I replaced the tank a few days later and everything has been better. The tank takes maybe 10-15 mins to replace, it's around $150 if you buy it online.

George
 
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Old 04-01-2010, 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by androulakis
Replace the tank. I replaced the nipples on my X type with brass 1/4 ****** fittings for air hose sealed with JB weld, and it lasted a few weeks, but I only did it as a temporary measure because I couldn't find a replacement tank that day. I replaced the tank with one I ordered online. With the X-Type both the nipples were gone off the tank and it was pissing coolant badly.

My S-Type had the exact leak which you describe when I got it. I replaced the tank a few days later and everything has been better. The tank takes maybe 10-15 mins to replace, it's around $150 if you buy it online.

George

Can you tell me the steps involved with what you did to use the brass fitting and is that better than nylon or plastic. I need my car- as it is just me and the car. Tomorrow is good Friday and the only one I might be able to get with be at the jag dealer which is probably 200. If they are closed or are out of the tanks, I will need an alternative. I appreciate your quick response and help. is the X-Type and S-type similiar in how the tanks are removed and refitted?

Tom
 
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Old 04-01-2010, 11:06 PM
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Originally Posted by jazzwineman
Can you tell me the steps involved with what you did to use the brass fitting and is that better than nylon or plastic. I need my car- as it is just me and the car. Tomorrow is good Friday and the only one I might be able to get with be at the jag dealer which is probably 200. If they are closed or are out of the tanks, I will need an alternative. I appreciate your quick response and help. is the X-Type and S-type similiar in how the tanks are removed and refitted?

Tom
S-Type and X-Type tanks are completely different. The X type has two nipples, one on each side. The S Just has one.

Basically it's cake. On the S there is a bolt (10mm if I remember right holding the tank in, then a clamp u have to release with a screwdriver on the bottom) And that little clamp on little nipple. Honestly, If you're just buying yourself time, you're probably better off with an epoxy, and just trying to seal the leak at the nipple. Generally they crack at the base where the nipple meets the tank.

S-Type tanks also tend to leak around the seams, where the white plastic meets the black one. The S's Nipple will be much harder to replace with brass. Basically what I did with the X was drill out the nipple bases a bit smaller than the brass fittings, (you want ****** ones so the hoses stay on) then took a tap and cut a bit of thread into it, then forced it in there with channel locks - sort of screwing it in.

Then I took a product called faststeel - its a two part clay like epoxy. Home depot has it. You knead it together, and made a ring of the adhesive, and basically sealed the outer edge of the nipples. It claimed to be waterproof, and suitable for plumbing use. Allowed that to cure for a couple hours, and then put the tank back in.

It held for a few weeks, then I smelled the faint smell of coolant, and popped the hood to see the "faststeel" had shrunk and become flexible and it was separating from the tank.

I just got a new tank at that point, but with some proper silicone based sealant - and those brass nipples, and proper cure time, I bet it may have just led to a permanent repair. The underhood enviroment is really harsh. Especially for something that has to handle the direct heat cycles of engine coolant.

George
 
  #5  
Old 04-01-2010, 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by androulakis
S-Type and X-Type tanks are completely different. The X type has two nipples, one on each side. The S Just has one.

Basically it's cake. On the S there is a bolt (10mm if I remember right holding the tank in, then a clamp u have to release with a screwdriver on the bottom) And that little clamp on little nipple. Honestly, If you're just buying yourself time, you're probably better off with an epoxy, and just trying to seal the leak at the nipple. Generally they crack at the base where the nipple meets the tank.

S-Type tanks also tend to leak around the seams, where the white plastic meets the black one. The S's Nipple will be much harder to replace with brass. Basically what I did with the X was drill out the nipple bases a bit smaller than the brass fittings, (you want ****** ones so the hoses stay on) then took a tap and cut a bit of thread into it, then forced it in there with channel locks - sort of screwing it in.

Then I took a product called faststeel - its a two part clay like epoxy. Home depot has it. You knead it together, and made a ring of the adhesive, and basically sealed the outer edge of the nipples. It claimed to be waterproof, and suitable for plumbing use. Allowed that to cure for a couple hours, and then put the tank back in.

It held for a few weeks, then I smelled the faint smell of coolant, and popped the hood to see the "faststeel" had shrunk and become flexible and it was separating from the tank.

I just got a new tank at that point, but with some proper silicone based sealant - and those brass nipples, and proper cure time, I bet it may have just led to a permanent repair. The underhood enviroment is really harsh. Especially for something that has to handle the direct heat cycles of engine coolant.

George
That is quite a bit of help. Do you think i will need to take the tank off to fix temporarily with epoxy or is it possible with the tank on the car. How hard is it to get the bottom hose off the tank?

Tom
 
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Old 04-02-2010, 07:38 PM
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I would take the tank off. The hose clamp (its more hard plastic than actual rubber hose) isn't hard just look at it and you will understand. The outer ring slides off and the tank comes up and out. To put it back in, just push the tank back onto the pipe, until it snaps / clicks.

George
 
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Old 04-02-2010, 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by androulakis
I would take the tank off. The hose clamp (its more hard plastic than actual rubber hose) isn't hard just look at it and you will understand. The outer ring slides off and the tank comes up and out. To put it back in, just push the tank back onto the pipe, until it snaps / clicks.

George
Thanks for your help. Got one today and it took about the 15 minutes you mentioned.

What utter nonsense for something like this.

Tom
 
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