Just found a coolant leak on my 2006 S Type R. Wanted to make a post and ask what this could be. From what I’ve been told it’s most likely the Auxiliary Coolant Pump, but it was also suggested it was the heater control valve.

This leak is coming from right behind the radiator on the passenger side “right side” of the car.

Wanted to be sure and order the right part as I plan on replacing it later this week.




View of the leak under the car



Top side view

Top side view

View of said part with a camera on the top side.

 

Dual Climate Control Valve (DCCV). Known failure point.

Do not use jubilee or worm drive style hose clamps where hoses meet plastic fittings. Use only constant-tension style clamps to reduce the chance of the plastic fitting cracking.

 

Would you happen to have a picture of said clamps? Also is it best to go with the oem part or is aftermarket okay?

 

This type of clamp. Good quality aftermarket should be fine.

 

Very good thank you! From the information I’ve found, the Bosch DCCV seems to be the OEM part for the car. I’ve had a bit of trouble trying to find it in stock but hope to find one shortly so I can order it and replace it.

I’ll post a YouTube video I found on replacing the DCCV for anyone else that might stumble across this with the same issue.

 

Also if anyone would happen to know where I could order the OE Bosch DCCV I’d happily do so.

Having quite a bit of trouble sourcing it as most sites seem to not have it in stock, and the only ones available are cheap knockoffs. Don’t want to order a cheap knockoff as I could very likely have to do the job again.

 

Good luck in finding a Bosch unit. Very difficult to source. I ended up using a Gates DCCV. Yes, like pretty much all the others it is made in the PRC; Gates is a Ford OEM, so hopefully their QC will be a bit better than the Sum Ting Wong Auto Parts Manufactory #47...

Given the cramped quarters in the engine bay, it is not a fun job. Good luck.

 

To gain access to the DCCV, it's best to remove the cooling module from the radiator. It's also a good time to replace the upper radiator hose.

Check the radiator side tank where the upper hose attaches as they have a tendency to crack and leak in that area.

 

buy a motorcraft for an ls 🤷‍♂️ it’s the bosch part

 

Per RockAuto, that’s a MotorCraft YG378:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ter+valve,6860


Hard to tell on my phone, but it looks like BOSCH stamped on the metal covers.

 

That should work indeed! Looking at the specs for the Ford & S Type HCV they appear to be the same as the specs are identical. Also using that part number with Ford dealers, they can seemingly get it in stock same day. Thank you for the reply! Seems as though we have a workaround now.


https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ter+valve,6860

Here’s a link to the gates DCCV as well. For anyone that’s interested.

Thank you everyone for the assistance!! Ended up ordering the DCCV through a Ford dealership for comparable to what rock auto would with shipping included. Will have it by tomorrow and will hopefully work on install then as well.

Ordered the Ford Motorcraft DCCV through the YG378 part number.

 

Surely enough it’s the Bosch OEM part made in France, not in China with all the knockoffs. Thanks for the assistance everyone!

Now anyone who wants/needs the oem part can go this route. I’m personally glad I went this way through the dealer as they had it same day for $180 with tax.

Would’ve ordered it through rock auto as I’ve ordered other parts through there, but for next day air with FedEx it would’ve been significantly more than just going to the dealer.

Now for the fun part! I get to replace it this week!

 

Good find and it's cheaper on Amazon at $125 but only 2 left!
.
.
.

 

Update #1 of changing out the DCCV on my Jag.

Took the top radiator hose off to make for easier access off. Now need to get the other hoses off. Plan on getting the rest of these hoses off tomorrow as in my garage I’m having trouble seeing where the hoses go to and simply don’t have enough lighting.

Unfortunately the little clip on the bottom of the coolant reservoir flung off when I was just trying to get it to stay back. Friend of mine Kelby Morgan had given me some advice on making sure it didn’t fling off but it still did anyway. Thankfully ended up finding the clip on the frame as I have all the undertray’s off.

Any additional advice on replacing this DCCV on the 4.2 S/C V8 is much appreciated. Hoping tomorrow goes a lot easier.

Good friend of mine who used to own a 3.0L V6 S Type is coming over tomorrow to help and have some food while we work on the Jag together.

 

A couple of things to consider:

Access is very poor to disconnect the hoses at the DCCV. It may be easier to disconnect the other end of each hose. Remove the DCCV and attached hose(s) as a unit, like an unwieldy octopus. Then you can easily deal with the hose connections from the comfort of your workbench.

The electrical connector uses Ford’s infamous sliding red lock, which has to be released first. Here’s a quick video explaining the process:

 

Thank you for this advice and I’ll be sure to watch this video as well as others to get ready for the task at hand later tonight. Have work today but I’ll be sure to watch so I’ll have an easier go of it.

I’ll try and find where the hoses route from & to so I can remove them in the method you described to make it easier. If there’s a diagram I’ll try and find it in the meantime.

 

A good pair of locking hose clamp pliers also helps on this job, if you decide to remove the heater hoses from the DCCV in place.

 

I plan on picking up a pair of those today at harbor freight. Also have considered ordering the rest of the hoses since most of them could do with replacing anyway. That way I can know most are replaced except for the valley hose.

Plan on replacing that within the next few months when I have the blower sent off to be ported. Will order the Swallows Racing Silicon hose as it’d be better than oem and should not ever need replacing again.

 

use the flexible one with the handle it’s easy peasy

then throw them away replace with norma worm clamps. bmw used them on all their water pumps they don’t lose tension

 

DO NOT use jubilee or worm type clamps on hose connections to plastic fittings as they cause the plastic to crack. Use constant tension clamps on hoses when connecting to plastic pipes or fittings.