I'm not comfortable with anything except the jag stuff but only because the evidence that others are OK looks worryingly flimsy.

I have a Ford antifreeze with the same spec as the jag. But it's purple!!
Am I gonna use it? No way.

5l jag coolant was $30-35 here. The Ford stuff was less but not a lot less. But at $30-35 I'm not that bothered to save a few $$$.

 

It's not purple over here. It says Orange right on the jug.

"Motorcraft® Specialty Orange Engine Coolant".

If you mix orange and purple what color do you get? Probably brown ...

It's from the company that owned Jaguar while this car was in production. It has the specification right on the jug and you're still not going to use it?

Now here's another way to look at it. I use this argument with my friends in the Maserati community when they b*tch and moan about $400 oil changes.

It's a limited production automobile. The people at the dealerships have to eat. So if they aren't going to make the money on volume it has to be on inflated unit pricing. Otherwise, the dealership disappears and then where are you? Privilege comes at a price.

So support your local dealer and buy the coolant from them.

Bob S.

 

LOL

I hope I've bought enough to last me 5+ years, so at $30-35 I'm happy enough.

I don't know any part # (FINIS code), or the price for 5l, for a Ford orange coolant of that spec in case any UK people want to try it.

 

A gallon here is $75, and the two small bottles I bought, which I believe were liters, were $35 for both. You live in the UK, so maybe thats why it is reasonable compared to the Ford stuff, import/export. They basically told me if it meets specs you can use it, and the Dexcool seems to do just that. Would I, I am still not 100% convinced, but I probably will in the future.

I really would not be suprised if another company (Peak/Prestone) produced this "Jag" coolant but Jag rebranded and labled it as their own to inflate the price.

 

They do have to eat ... but at $75 a gallon I'm going to suggest they go to McDonalds more often.

Bob S.

 

I thought our local dealership was high at $45 for the 5-litre jug, but Bull's dealership is absolutely murdering their customers with this stuff....

 

That's a much better deal .

Do you know how many boxes of donuts I could deliver to the service guys at the Jag dealer with the savings from a couple of jugs of Prestone DEX-COOL!

I haven't found anything on Prestones website yet that references the WSS M97B44-D spec. Seems like they don't want to be on record ...

But look at these two links.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...19_T%7CGRP2004___

http://www.shamrockchicago.com/PrestELAfSpec.html

One from Peak http://www.peakantifreeze.com/peak_global_lifetime.html
It's pretty clearly stated on there.

Finding a Prestone MSDS for the stuff has proven illusive thus far.

Bob S.

 

I just looked at the back of the Prestone Dex-Cool jug. It says it meets the Ford WSS M97B44-D spec and it also matches the factory OEM color. At least with the Jaguar, they publish the spec so there isn't much guess work with aftermarket fluids. With Porsche, they changed the color at least twice (yellow & red), its like $60/gal from the factory, and its known to turn into a gel when mixed with the wrong aftermarket coolant.

 

There is a MSDS page on that Shamrock site you posted.

 

That nails it for me. They are quivalent.

Yes if you mix it with the "other" type it can gel and make a mess. That's been well documented for many years.

There is a lot of anecdotal evidence of other issues though.

Premature corrosion, but if you change the fluid at 3 or 4 year intervals maybe that's not an issue?

The other issue I read about is a warning about changing to the DEX-COOL even after a complete flushing because there's some sort of deposit left on the metal that reacts adversely with the DEX-COOL?

It seems to me that this issue bears looking into for anyone contemplating a change in either direction.

 

Which is why I posted it. But .... it's not on the Prestone website that I can find. I'd feel better getting it directly from Prestone.

Bob S.

 

So far so good, put the hose in, topped the tank off to "full" with some water (1/2 ltr.), let it idle for a bit.....nothing. Went for a drive to get a coffee, parked, let it idle, shut it off, nothing. After examining the connection as to where it was leaking, I didnt see any overflow, or bubbling. I made sure that hose was ALL the way up as far as it could go, along with the clamp. Lets hope this will be the end of it.

Two things, in a previous post K&N air filters came up, I said I had one and that I believe it took away a little low end torque. Well I replaced it with a Jag OEM ($30) and I dont care what anyone says, just from that little ride I noticed a difference...for the better. It actually seems as though some low end torque came back. I cannot explain nor do I want to begin to try, but I'm sure ya'll will have your opinions which will probably reflect something of this nature, "its all in your head".

ANY TIPS ON HOW TO GET THAT FREAKING AIRBOX COVER ON WITHOUT SNAPPING THE 4 CLIPS (actually the 2 end ones)??? I have tried angling it, pushing down and pulling in, making love to them, everything....F'n things wont completely snap in there. It was almost as much of a PITA to take the damn thing off.

 

If it's any consolation, mine is a PIA as well. Here is what I've seen. It depends on the gasket molded into the panel. Some seat deeper than others. Try puttin a bit of grease on the top of the gasket. Then press it in with your finger to get it to seat as tight as possible. Then (if your box is the same as a 3.0) slide the rear tabs in until they seat then press straight down, then try to snap the clips. It takes a bit of force.

Who knows about the air flow? I tend to agree on what you said about "seat of your pants". But that said, I also think you are probably better off in the long run without an oiled filter in there. We all know how sensitive the throttle body is...

 

Whoa, apparently I missed this Jeff. Sounds like your SWAMPED, I cannot believe the little one is 1 already, that FLEW by. Wife is getting more tired by the day, 2nd tri was great, she is halfway through the 3rd and its taking a beating on her. I have lucked out though, she has been great, no mood swings or anything.

As for the Boston area schmelting into the ocean, thats about right. Thanks to all those A holes who drive supercharged V8 vehicles helping the global warming cause.

 

An ice age is infinitely worse. Think of the salt needed for the roads and what it would do to you favorite chariot!

So do you think you found the culprit that was the cause of you coolant leak?

Bob S.

 

I think so Bob, well I hope so...

I would assume that after idling and driving for a while I would notice a leak after careful examination and the ole' lay down and check on the ground method.

I feel like such an idiot, for the life of me I cannot get this air box cover snapped in completely. There is NO give to this plastic and it just wont angle in there and snap in no matter what I do. The two on the right are obviously snapped in, then there is 4 on the left. The two middle ones on the air box base dont have a downward lip, they are just to help keep it lined up, but the other two on the edges have a downward lip, and should snap around the two [ shaped areas on the cover. I'm about to lose it....either that or I'm just gonna shut the hood and be done with it.

 

Post a picture... I'll try to help after I get home.. 'Bout an hour and a half...After baby in bath etc... til I'll be able to get back on line...

Oh, BTW, be glad you don't have fog lamps!!! LOL... $105 bucks down the toilet.

 

Did you try to remove the air intake hose from the cover. It makes it easier to move and less things to fight.

 

I did, I was thinking the same thing. That sucker is on there real good, loosened the clamp, and tried to pull then pry the hose off. Is it sealed with something? It seemed like it, so I didn't want to go crazy on it. There is also a sensor on it with a hard hose connected to it, offered very little give so I didn't want to further create problems by trying to strong arm it off.

 

My question is why did they make the "flex" piece out of hard plastic instead of a nicely engineered piece of rubber liike most cars? Did they save all that much money?

Someone on this website just broke one of these recently trying to close everything up.

Bob S.