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Hi gang, i have a 2000 V6 3ltr SE , it had a full major service last November, had 2 new coil pack, and now runs like a dream, nice and quiet and no idle wobble just perfect....almost, my problem is on during short day to day runs, say around 10 miles round trip, with stops of around 20 minutes fro shopping and errands,about half way in to my routine the fan comes on at full speed, and only come to rest after the the engine has been switch off for around 5 minutes. All the fluids are regularly checked every week, and the temp gauge never moves from the center of the dial, i have noticed it come up to temperature with in 5 to 8 minutes of driving.....is this normal. As this is my first Jag i am not yet familiar with their noise's sounds,faults and furbles ...am i being paranoid , or do i have a problem with my fan relay , i am just looking for some reassurance here any advice will be well appreciated thanks guys.
Hi Ken, thanks for the reply i think your right it is a happy car, and i'm not to sure what you mean by "in & out" temp and settings on the A/C, it has not been warm enough for me to use it on cold, although it does work on cold, i just use it as normal for demisting and warmth, it has had a good run today over to Redditch and back and the cruise control works better than the peddle to be honest with excellent and fast acceleration....runs so well, we had just reached Redditch when the fan then kicked in which i expected having had a good run, and sitting a little at road works, but soon came on 2/3 miles on the way back. So having gon on a bit...do you think this is norm..? Cheers...
Hi I think he was meaning the inside temp and outside temp.
Do you have a obdII code reader such as an elm 327. It would allow you to read the coolant temperature. If you don't get a WiFi one as you can use it with a laptop and a smartphone.
Hello Andy; sorry for delay in replying but thanks to David for his correct explanation of my reference to inside and outside temps related to your chosen cabin temp.
The process sounds complicated but essentially, at any time that the aircon is set "on", it senses and compares the differential of these temps to dictate, firstly, the operation of the aircon and/or heater cycles and, secondly, pulls the fan on if the aircon cycle warrants. We are conditioned (oops, pun unintended) to see the fan solely in terms of engine coolant temp, but keep in mind that the fan is there for more than just cooling the car's radiator . . . it needs to respond also to rising temp in the aircon condenser.
Your follow-on info that the weather has been warm enough for you to choose either single or dual cabin settings that require aircon operation confirms the above but . . . if you remain concerned, then certainly use the ELM327 recommended by David to confirm actual coolant temp.
That OBDII tool is mandatory first purchase for new S-Type owner. Second is low cost or freebie DVM and third is smart charger / battery tender . . . these latter 2 to maintain critical battery voltage. Use Stickys here to download all the manuals, TSBs for your car . . . sooner or later you will need them. Above all, Andy, enjoy your Jaguar . . . and keep reading to raise your knowledge. S-Type is a great car, but requires informed maintenance and regular service.
The process sounds complicated but essentially, at any time that the aircon is set "on", it senses and compares the differential of these temps to dictate, firstly, the operation of the aircon and/or heater cycles and, secondly, pulls the fan on if the aircon cycle warrants. We are conditioned (oops, pun unintended) to see the fan solely in terms of engine coolant temp, but keep in mind that the fan is there for more than just cooling the car's radiator . . . it needs to respond also to rising temp in the aircon condenser.
+1 on the ODB II scan tool. A simple smartphone accessory is so inexpensive these days. You won't regret it.
Be aware the temp gauge is deliberately dumbed down. From about 180 to 230 F, the needle stays centered. A scan tool can read the live data and tell you way more than the potentially misleading gauge. Could be your car has a minor cooling problem and is running near the top of that range and you wouldn't know it. I'm not sure of the fan logic, but that may be normal if approaching 230.
More details here. This is from a different forum, but the same general principles apply to our cars:
For the air conditioning interface, try shutting off the AC switch and see if that changes anything. Not quite sure how best to proceed if it does make a difference, but it would still be a helpful clue.
Hi guy's firstly i would like to thank you all for the welcome ...also the grateful help and advice from every body.
OK....back to the issue at hand, this is what i did today,i ran her for an half an hour 8 mile round trip, 2 mile from home the fan kicks in just as i expected, so on the drive with the engine running i plugged in my diagnostic tool and found the coolant to be at 105.c, so do we conclude the fan and relay and module are running as they should...? if so then why is the temp slightly high..? now taking in mind we did a couple of hill's and i opened her up on one stretch to get her up to temp...so having said all of that ...any ideas guys....? Just a quick addition normally after i turn the engine off the fan continues for around 5 minutes.....but today....it ran for around 1 minutes, that has never happend before......an enigma me thinks....
Stretchy, I'd save up all my worry for when the fan doesn't come on....ijs
But now that you have a scanner, you have available most of the information to determine whether your car is normal or not. The fan is controlled by the ECM in response to coolant temperature and a/c head pressure. JTIS, a free download here, should give you the temp settings that turn the cooling fan on low and off low, as well as on high and off high (Off is a lower temp than on to eliminate hysteresis) It should also give you the a/c pressure settings for cooling fan high and low. You will need a manifold & gauge set to determine what the actual a/c pressures are while running - your scanner won't do that. In general, unless it is just biting cold out, you can expect the cooling fan to go to high due to a/c head pressure long before coolant temp demands it.
Ok ...so after a little furkaling , no air lock, no bubbles coming up through the expansion tank (which is the best sign), but the air con runs cold but could be colder, runs hot very well, also the top hose on the rad is hot, but the bottom one past the thermostat is cool.....sooo i am presuming it is the the thermostat..? as i am presuming again that both hose's should roughly feel the same in heat does any body else agree...?
Hi ...
hear are a few more answers, the top hose is hot, the bottom is cool, and also am i assuming that the thermostat is in the tri hose between the radiator and the engine...? as i am leaning towards the thermostat might be dodgy.
Have you got a copy of the workshop manual?
If not you can get a copy here http://www.jagrepair.com or get the JTIS in the stickies
that will answer all of your problem
Hi Andy
The fan will stay on for 5 minutes after you turn off the ignition if it is running hotter than it should.
The temperature gauge is not a true indicator of temperature (as stated below by kr9866) So use it as a guide. On my car it sits just below half way for normal running conditions. However, if you have the fan staying on every time you stop the car it is worth looking at the cooling system, radiator and hoses and the reservoir tank. The plastic becomes brittle and there are problems with the plastic junction were the bleeder valve is housed on earlier models. My car leaked from the small hose coming from the reservoir at this place. There is also a lot written on the forum about properly bleeding the cooling system.
If you keep a watch on your temperature gauge and it goes above half way then it is a problem. My car has the fan stay on when I turn it off in warmer weather. I keep a keen eye on the gauge in summer (30 degrees plus celsius). It is a big job replacing a radiator on these cars. I broke the top hose junction trying to wrestle out the radiator on a spare Jag. So, hopefully you won't need a radiator.
If you do need to do the radiator another forum member has written a good and fair job of explaining the process. But the theory is nothing like the practice. A job to avoid.
Paul
Hello Paul.
Thank you for your help, the expansion tank is newish,i have the receipt with the paper work that came with it, all fluids never change as i keep an eye on them every week, she had a major service last October, funny thing is different circumstances have an effect,like yesterday after a trip out the fan came on full as it does, and just before home i accelerated hard so i could in traffic to get inthe right lane for my home........as i pulled on the drive the fan was off...?, on other occasions i have let the engine run a while before turning off, and when i do the fan stops. Its been a real puzzle. i have checked for air locks, split hose's, leaks...but nothing, my drive has grey bricks so any leaks i would notice, anyway i intend to change the thermostat this week end i am sure this is the problem. IOf this cures it i will let every body know, if you have any more ideas let me know, once again thanks for any help. Andy.
05-16-2017 | 01:24 PM
Cooling Fan
