Cooling Problem
#1
#6
yeah i thought that too...but it wouldnt fit in the housing backwards. SORRY I dont have the JTIS???? Dont know what that is. I know when i started the car after install...water/antifreeze mix was bubbling which normally means bad thermostat or bad water pump. I spoke with a mechanic today, he said those water pump propeller is stamp press and sometimes falls off causing failure to the system. I will check monday....thanks again for the assistance.
#7
yeah i thought that too...but it wouldnt fit in the housing backwards. SORRY I dont have the JTIS???? Dont know what that is. I know when i started the car after install...water/antifreeze mix was bubbling which normally means bad thermostat or bad water pump. I spoke with a mechanic today, he said those water pump propeller is stamp press and sometimes falls off causing failure to the system. I will check monday....thanks again for the assistance.
Honestly it is a pretty cumbersome application that is written as a reference for a technician and not a DIYer. That said. I has provided me with lots of good reference information and understanding.
Don't know about the durability of the water pump. How many miles on the car?
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#8
Just change mine last weekend and it took three tries of going thru the bleeding procedure to get the air pocket out. The last time with the car in park and the bleeder open I kept it around 1800 to 2000 rpm with the heat on full and that did the trick. Took about 5 minutes the last time.
#9
New problem...went to move the car today...really hard time starting. Now I disconnected the battery since I wasnt going to drive the car until I figured out what was wrong. It sounds like it is misfiring and just running rough. Could this be a head gasket problem??? and/or does the car run like crap if there is a air pocket???
#10
New problem...went to move the car today...really hard time starting. Now I disconnected the battery since I wasnt going to drive the car until I figured out what was wrong. It sounds like it is misfiring and just running rough. Could this be a head gasket problem??? and/or does the car run like crap if there is a air pocket???
An air pocket won't effect how it runs, but will effect the cooling systems ability to cool the engine. Also, after disconnecting the battery for an extended period the ECM may also have to relearn how to run... Remember back before OBDII, the cheater way to clear the check engine light after a repair was to disconnect the battery.. It would reset all the codes but your car would run like crap for 10 to 20 minutes until the computer re-learned how to work beyond basic instructions. Don't know if modern ECM's do anything like that, so that is just a guess.
#11
They do have to re-learn after a battery disconnection and to do that ideally you'd follow the "drive cycle" but it's an awkward set of speeds etc so just drive it at various speeds as usual. Try to do a coast-down, where you let it coast without braking from about 60 (or faster if you like) to 20 (or slower if you like) at some point. I think you're supposed to avoid Sport until it's had a chance to re-learn.
#12
How long did you let it run? Before you changed the thermostat did it overheat?
An air pocket won't effect how it runs, but will effect the cooling systems ability to cool the engine. Also, after disconnecting the battery for an extended period the ECM may also have to relearn how to run... Remember back before OBDII, the cheater way to clear the check engine light after a repair was to disconnect the battery.. It would reset all the codes but your car would run like crap for 10 to 20 minutes until the computer re-learned how to work beyond basic instructions. Don't know if modern ECM's do anything like that, so that is just a guess.
An air pocket won't effect how it runs, but will effect the cooling systems ability to cool the engine. Also, after disconnecting the battery for an extended period the ECM may also have to relearn how to run... Remember back before OBDII, the cheater way to clear the check engine light after a repair was to disconnect the battery.. It would reset all the codes but your car would run like crap for 10 to 20 minutes until the computer re-learned how to work beyond basic instructions. Don't know if modern ECM's do anything like that, so that is just a guess.
George
#13
I let it sit idling rough..i didnt drive because of the coolant. I got a gallon of antifreeze and half a gallon of water in. It wouldn't take anymore probably due to the airpocket. I still haven't got over to the shop to even mess with it. My buddy has a coolant machine that takes all the air out of the system, so Friday we are trying that. Hopefully the rough idle is the computer re learning itself. Any other info would be helpful, thanks!!!
#14
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#17
The proper coolant is indeed a reddish-orange color. It doesn't have to be the $45 five-litre jug that Jaguar sells, but it does need to meet or exceed the Ford M97B44D specs requirement for coolant fluid. Read the label before you buy any coolant. Those that meet these specs will say so.
The Dexcool product made by Prestone qualifies. In my neck of the woods, you can usually find it on sale for around $12 a gallon at places like Pep Boys, Autozone, Advance Auto Parts, etc....
The Dexcool product made by Prestone qualifies. In my neck of the woods, you can usually find it on sale for around $12 a gallon at places like Pep Boys, Autozone, Advance Auto Parts, etc....
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