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Cutting off during acceleration

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Old 11-19-2012 | 03:41 PM
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Default Cutting off during acceleration

For the past week or so I started to notice that the engine tends to cut out when accelerating between 50mph - 65mph and RPM is around 1.5 to 2.
I don't have any Jaguar dealer close to me unless I make a 160miles round trip so I took it to a Ford dealer for diagnostics. They hooked up the computer and said they found two codes:
P1582
P0628
But nothing relating to the issue I explained. They asked me to come back later this week so they can diagnose it thru all day.
Especially when climbing the hill and i gently give it a gas to keep the same speed without being aggressive car jerks a little (dhub dhub dhub dhub) and then goes again almost like when you try to take a hill in higher gear.
I was due for an oil change so I did along with the air filter change and tire rotate and balance thinking ABS was taking a hold.
Where else and what could I look for because when taking off I used to get the hesitation within 5 - 10 mph hr which seemed to be fixed after I did a 100K maintenance which included the spark plug changes, but this new cut out kind of thing is getting me worried.
 
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Old 11-19-2012 | 04:00 PM
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Could be a fuel pump going out, when you demand more flow, it can't keep up causing it to buck/cut out
 
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  #3  
Old 11-19-2012 | 04:57 PM
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coils misfiring,. Is it engine jerk or maybe trans? Or can you tell
 
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Old 11-19-2012 | 08:48 PM
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before the 100k miles service it did have the misfire code this was read almost 6 months before i performed the service ,and wouldn't the code be register if it was a misfire or coil going out? How would i go about checking the fuel pump. I don't have any tools like the obii to hook up and check anything the codes o i provided was from the service tech from ford dealerahip
sorry for the grammatical errors or poor formating i am using my phone to answer
 
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Old 11-20-2012 | 09:05 AM
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Misfires are flagged if the PCM can see them clearly enough, which is a big challenge for it. Brutal does tend to be right y'know...

Could clear the codes and see which if any come back soon. If you keep getting P0628 then it's probably a real fault.
 

Last edited by JagV8; 11-20-2012 at 09:09 AM.
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Old 11-20-2012 | 12:45 PM
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On jaguars that show misfire counts for each cylinder, youll get 1000's of misifre counts without a code or check engine light. Youll be able to feel at idle or on accel, but without being able to read counts you have to wait for a cylinder misfire code to set, otherwise youre pissing in a fan. I regularly hear this complaint from customers and no codes. And if im working on a car i can see the misifre counter i know what cylinder is doing it, and i regularly see counts of 6,7 or 8000. Trust me youll feel a engine miss when it does it a few hundred times on accel, even at idle youll feel everyone. Add those up. So your choices are wait to see the cylinder or replace them all.
 
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Old 11-20-2012 | 12:50 PM
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almost forgot, yes on the p0628 which is a fuel pump fault. I would clear the code and if the car continues to stumble it should throw that code again which would be more definitative for fuel delivery than coils at that point
 
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  #8  
Old 11-21-2012 | 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Brutal
almost forgot, yes on the p0628 which is a fuel pump fault. I would clear the code and if the car continues to stumble it should throw that code again which would be more definitative for fuel delivery than coils at that point
I ran around town all day, day before yesterday and absolutely no issue. This morning without letting engine to warm up i took off, on a plain road when i hit 70mph i set the cruise and it did it again. When it did this time i cancelled the cruise and slow down then tried to accelerate again, it did it again and this time little longer than usual and i saw the engine light blink about 3-5 times.
I don't think I will be able to leave it at the nearby ford place until next Tuesday to clear the fuel pump code erase but till then can i look for something else visually or feel to narrow the culprit?
Thanks
 
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Old 11-21-2012 | 11:17 AM
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Blink means misfires!! Bad ones, i.e. catalyst-damaging. Almost for sure coil(s). Change some, if not all.
 
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  #10  
Old 11-21-2012 | 11:32 AM
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oh boy. Any clue on how much i could be shelling out to fix this?
 
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Old 11-21-2012 | 11:35 AM
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A lot more if the cats get destroyed!

Read some other threads and look for cheapest sources parts but bear in mind I can't help as I don't live in USA...
 
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  #12  
Old 11-21-2012 | 11:43 AM
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Thank you JagV8. So i for certain should getting the new ignition coils and look out for catalyst.
 
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Old 11-21-2012 | 11:49 AM
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Sounds very like a problem I had last year. One of the coil-over units had broken down. First it was misfiring and showing the engine light briefly when driving in wet weather, and after a while it started doing that all the time. S-Types tend to suffer a bit with the coil units. There are six - three of them under the throttle body assembly, which of course is where my bad one was, so given that getting at them is a bit of a dose and I had a major service coming up, I replaced all three as well as the plugs. The three on the other side are very easy to change - just disconnect the little wiring plug, undo the retainer (a long-reach socket is handy here) and pop out. IIRC they're about $40 each?
 

Last edited by jimgoose; 11-21-2012 at 11:56 AM.
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Old 11-21-2012 | 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by jimgoose
Sounds very like a problem I had last year. One of the coil-over units had broken down. S-Types tend to suffer a bit with them. There are six - three of them under the throttle body assembly, which of course is where my bad one was, so given that getting at them is a bit of a dose and I had a major service coming up, I replaced all three as well as the plugs. The three on the other side are very easy to change - just disconnect the little wiring plug, undo the retainer (a long-reach socket is handy here) and pop out. IIRC they're about $40 each?
So when you replaced the ignition coils the issue went away?


I've found this set of 6 ignition coild on eBay, being a noob I do not know anything about these, any help on weeding out the ones I should stay away from is much appreciated.
ADP GDG517 Ignition Coils Set of 6 60 1004 FD496 | eBay

Edit: I checked on Jagbits.com and it shows the part number that I need is C2S42673 and this listing on eBay has the same part number listed as compatible or replacement.
 

Last edited by somedude; 11-21-2012 at 11:58 AM.
  #15  
Old 11-21-2012 | 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by somedude
So when you replaced the ignition coils the issue went away?...
It certainly did.

Originally Posted by somedude
I've found this set of 6 ignition coild on eBay, being a noob I do not know anything about these, any help on weeding out the ones I should stay away from is much appreciated.
ADP GDG517 Ignition Coils Set of 6 60 1004 FD496 | eBay

Edit: I checked on Jagbits.com and it shows the part number that I need is C2S42673 and this listing on eBay has the same part number listed as compatible or replacement.
Couldn't say. Personally I'd be happier using Motorcraft ones.
 
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  #16  
Old 11-21-2012 | 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by jimgoose
It certainly did.
Sorry for asking so much but did you go with the OEM or aftermarket part and how long has that holded you off for?
 
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Old 11-21-2012 | 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by somedude
Sorry for asking so much but did you go with the OEM or aftermarket part and how long has that holded you off for?
I can't remember off-hand - I'll check my documentation tonight. It's been perfect ever since.
 
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  #18  
Old 11-21-2012 | 01:25 PM
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I decided to drive to the nearest ford dealership and have them checked out, what could be the better way of explaining this issue? Should i ask them to check on the coils and catalyst too or just let them figure it out
 
  #19  
Old 11-21-2012 | 01:58 PM
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If you use Ford be SURE to find a dealer that has a coil stress tester. Ford replaced so many good coils that they started to force the dealers to get this machine. It's the only way to properly test the coil. Otherwise just replace them all and be done with it.
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  #20  
Old 11-21-2012 | 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by jimgoose
I can't remember off-hand - I'll check my documentation tonight. It's been perfect ever since.
OEM parts went in.
 



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