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DCCV Deconstructed & different views on failure of value and controller

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  #21  
Old 11-09-2010, 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by ccc
Sorry, I have a 2004 STR and use the newer 3 hose DCCV, I think the older onles use a 5 hose DCCV. Sorry for the confusion.
Pre facelift = 5 hose.

Post facelift (all Type R's) = 3 hose.

Much more to come.

George
 
  #22  
Old 11-09-2010, 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Brutal
i know lots of acronyms but what are you reffering to as FET federal exise tax??
on the B+ it and the ac compressor clutch share the same fuse. and is ignition switched hot. the CCM(climate control mdoule) provodes ground signal to the valves to close them, theyre normally open. now if you get coolant up into the coils and the pins both positive and negative that feed each 1. youre gonna feed B+ to a modules ground circuit. most module circuity is not a high or or for that matter much able to handle any amperage. This is a prrimary reason to never use a test light, but a DVOM(digital volt ohm meter) to check circuits. a dvom is very low impedance and safe to pin cuircuits. Now if you have a cross short on the CCM ground circuits to battery power, when theyre switched to ground(active) you now have a fusible link that isnt supposed to be 1. Hense the burned circuit board in the CCM on either 1 or both legs going to the DCCV coils. to me it doesnt matter so much as where of even why, but all blown CCM's have a leaking DCCV, but not all leaking DCCV's have blown CCM's, its just a matter of time. theres a great many things I deal with on a regular basis that there NO WAY that should happen that way, but yet it does and I have to fix it. Just recently ablind spot monitor issue that shut down the CAN network, nothing wrong the the CAN network, but ended up finding a open circuit in the mirror icon. Jaguar said theres no way that can happen, yes maybe not supposed too(should have given a code in the blind spot monitor modules not shut them down) but yet it did and there was alot of wasted time checking stuff only because
"that cannot happen, it doesnt work that way" was said repeatadly. Same issue I have with a 2011 XK lic plate light going out that are module driven...time will tell on that 1.
Brutal,

IF you feed the B+ to the CCM input, it will cause a overcurrent condition. I was trying to say that the coolant is continous and contacts the engine block so its likely to be ground which will not cause a overcurrent condtion. On the other hand, if the coil case cracks and what shorts pin (2 to 1) or (2 to 3) and its not strongly connected to ground, then it will cause damage. Since the design seems to be more robust to coolant exposure due to the potted coils and connect, I was hoping to better understand the failure mechanism and come up with a more robust test.

It would be interesting to see the resistance measurements of pin 1 to 2 and 2 to 3 in a failed DCCV as well as the resistance of the DCCV from pins 1, 2, 3 to the main coolant port filled with water on a failed part. If it does what I suspect, an engine off resistance measurements on the side of pins 9 to 10 and a voltage measurement in Lo-Lo from 9 to gnd and 10 to gnd may be able to ID a failed DCCV that's likely to take out the CCM.

Understand you pain. On your side, they tell you there is no code and it can't happen. On our side, they want next generation integrated circuits and modules to autodiagnose and selftest everything from field failures to manufacturing defects. Hopefully your feedback is understood by them so they ask us to design in the selftests that are real world relevant to hopefully make your job easier in the future.
 
  #23  
Old 11-09-2010, 03:45 PM
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I have a failed DCCV I can send you CCC.
 
  #24  
Old 11-09-2010, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Mafioso
I have a failed DCCV I can send you CCC.
Did it cause any damage to your climate control??

I think CCC's and mine etc failed while externally leaking, BUT without causing any damage to the Climate control Unit, either burned traces and or transistor failures.

George
 
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Old 11-09-2010, 05:08 PM
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It didnt take out the CCM, didnt externally leak.
 
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Old 11-09-2010, 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by androulakis
Did it cause any damage to your climate control??

I think CCC's and mine etc failed while externally leaking, BUT without causing any damage to the Climate control Unit, either burned traces and or transistor failures.

George
No damage to climate control. My wasn't leaking externally but coolant did leak past the piston seals into the chamber. I believe my failure was a stuck closed piston so the DCCV solved half of my problem. Drive side remained cold in Hi and Lo. Now it switches from warm to cold.

Also, I don't know about todays prices, but it was $85 from Amazon and $4 for next day air.
 
  #27  
Old 11-09-2010, 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Mafioso
It didnt take out the CCM, didnt externally leak.
I have one that did leak externally, but Didn't take out the CCM as well. I believe CCC's leaked externally, but CCM is intact. We need to get our hands on one that DID damage the CCM, to compare and contrast to identify the point of failure.

CCC, if the gasket around the plunger seal were to be compromises, could coolant not in fact be drawn UP the coil's shaft and into the electric side of the coil?

George
 
  #28  
Old 11-09-2010, 06:30 PM
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Re #6:
Electrical diagram may be wrong but (for 2002.5MY I think) shows on fig 06.1 DCCV pin 2 goes to fig 01.2 and via a splice/connector or two to fuse F32 (a batt+ feed, not sure whether via a relay but doesn't matter). So, pin 2 isn't via an FET or such like.
Originally Posted by ccc
Sorry, I have a 2004 STR and use the newer 3 hose DCCV, I think the older onles use a 5 hose DCCV. Sorry for the confusion.
Same diagrams. 2002.5MY is the redesign, with 3 hoses etc. (It was 2003 in the USA, I gather.)
 
  #29  
Old 11-09-2010, 06:30 PM
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My Climate control module (CCM) display flashes quickly at random times and only about 10% of the time. My DCCV is dry outside and all vents are doing what I ask....blowing hot or cold, even when the CCM is flashing. Not sure if this means my heater valve (DCCV) is fine or is this a prelude to CCM failure. Inclined to replace my DCCV (six years old) and monitor my CCM but wondering if any of you know of the CCM giving any warning prior to total failure? I've asked about this before but seeing how we're hot on this topic again I was curious about any warning signs.
 
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Old 11-09-2010, 06:37 PM
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I think Brutal's idea that a failed/failing DCCV drags the CCM's ground up from 0V to (who knows what voltage) is worth more thought. DCCV pin 2 will stay close to batt+ over a quite wide range of currents, but pins 1/3 won't make it to 0V no matter how hard the FETs try. I don't know what the circuit inside the CCM is but if the supposed switched-gnd provided by an FET fails to go low enough (due to a DCCV fault).... Is Brutal on the right lines?
 
  #31  
Old 11-09-2010, 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Dirk Bailey
My Climate control module (CCM) display flashes quickly at random times and only about 10% of the time. My DCCV is dry outside and all vents are doing what I ask....blowing hot or cold, even when the CCM is flashing. Not sure if this means my heater valve (DCCV) is fine or is this a prelude to CCM failure. Inclined to replace my DCCV (six years old) and monitor my CCM but wondering if any of you know of the CCM giving any warning prior to total failure? I've asked about this before but seeing how we're hot on this topic again I was curious about any warning signs.
So far as I can tell you have a very different problem to the issue(s) in this thread. My guess would be that you have a fault internal to the CCM or in a control input to it. We're struggling with the outputs from it to the DCCV and with the DCCV failure modes. As far as I can see your issues need to stay in a separate thread so as not to confuse this one. Unless someone can see a related issue (I can't - sorry).
 
  #32  
Old 11-09-2010, 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by jagv8
I think Brutal's idea that a failed/failing DCCV drags the CCM's ground up from 0V to (who knows what voltage) is worth more thought. DCCV pin 2 will stay close to batt+ over a quite wide range of currents, but pins 1/3 won't make it to 0V no matter how hard the FETs try. I don't know what the circuit inside the CCM is but if the supposed switched-gnd provided by an FET fails to go low enough (due to a DCCV fault).... Is Brutal on the right lines?
Pins 1/3 should alternate between open circuits (not connected to anything), and ground (when the output from the transistors is on). Here's something most people don't know. 99% percent of the circuits out there (including every digital circuit in the computer you are reading this on) are controlled by switching the ground. Getting an exact + voltage is a lot harder than it seems especially with a lot of factors involved. Clamping to ground is well, easy.

Here's the thing....the max potential voltage is 12v. Assuming the DCCV dead shorts a coil.

What I think Is happening is along the lines of either a dead short - the DCCV shorts the Supply +12v to the ground provided by the FET. The Trace on the PCB has less current handling capability than the Fuse on the B+ source, Therefore, the trace itself acts as the fuse. Basically burning out before the fuse does.

Somehow, the trace is seeing MORE current than it can handle, but less than the circuit is fused for (otherwise you'd blow the fuse first).

Two possible explanations here.

1) DCCV dead shorts a coil, fries the trace before the fuse gets a chance to react.
2) DCCV's coils resistance DROPS to a point where current is increased past the trace's limit, but below the fuses, once again frying the trace. From say 8ohm to 4 (this doubles current).

What's interesting is the reference to the DCCV B+ being on the same fuse as other sources. I'd be interested to see the current draw of a properly working DCCV. Something as simple as adding a separate fuse to the DCCV branch of the harness may be all that's needed to save the CCM from potential failure.

George
 
  #33  
Old 11-09-2010, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by ccc
Brutal,

IF you feed the B+ to the CCM input, it will cause a overcurrent condition. I was trying to say that the coolant is continous and contacts the engine block so its likely to be ground which will not cause a overcurrent condtion. On the other hand, if the coil case cracks and what shorts pin (2 to 1) or (2 to 3) and its not strongly connected to ground, then it will cause damage. Since the design seems to be more robust to coolant exposure due to the potted coils and connect, I was hoping to better understand the failure mechanism and come up with a more robust test.

It would be interesting to see the resistance measurements of pin 1 to 2 and 2 to 3 in a failed DCCV as well as the resistance of the DCCV from pins 1, 2, 3 to the main coolant port filled with water on a failed part. If it does what I suspect, an engine off resistance measurements on the side of pins 9 to 10 and a voltage measurement in Lo-Lo from 9 to gnd and 10 to gnd may be able to ID a failed DCCV that's likely to take out the CCM.
.
my feeling on this is that the coolant leaks get up to the either internal solenoid portion of the DCCV(originally sealed doesnt meen forever, and then maybe not the entire solenoid but the coils, hell Ive had short to grounds through undamaged wire insulation), or into the electrical connector well. At this point it completes a circuit either through the liquid coolant/water, or the materials in the coolant that act as a tracer(this is one of the great features of Jaguar coolant. it leaves trace stains and therefor easier to find and see leaks) Then completing the path from Batt+ pin 2 to either pins 1 and or 3. At this point you let the smoke out of the CCM driver circuit for the DCCV, much like using a test light would do with high impedance. It may not be constant either once it does it. I meen stick the probes into coolant and see what the ohm reading is. There are many times that you can have a dirty battery that reads battery voltage on the case when putting the negative or positive lead on the terminal and the other run run it around on the battery case. This is why batteries can discharge to without an external vehicle draw...its old school and not much an issue on Jaguars, but does stilll happen and catches people every time...I think the same thing happens to the module when you get leakage, eventually it provides a path between the circuits and lets all the trapped smoke out
 
  #34  
Old 11-09-2010, 07:25 PM
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George,

I was looking into the part, your looking into the controller. I believe both descriptions are correct. The voltage on these parts don't matter too much since B+ varies quite a bit. The main reason for a low side switch (one that shorts to ground) is that it can be driven by a 3.3V or 1.2V IC without any level shifting so its a cheaper solution.

"Two possible explanations here.

1) DCCV dead shorts a coil, fries the trace before the fuse gets a chance to react.
2) DCCV's coils resistance DROPS to a point where current is increased past the trace's limit, but below the fuses, once again frying the trace. From say 8ohm to 4 (this doubles current). "

A more wild explanation

The other harder to track down issue is the dynamic switching response. As the FET switches off, the inductor (coil) doesn't like its current to stop so it creates a large negative voltage that turns on the body diode of the FET as the energy is bleed out. May be some transient effects that weakens the copper over time until if fails like a fuse.

In any case, I didn't like the feeling of having to worry about the controller when the heat wasn't symmetric or perhaps having to replace the DCCV just because it leaks. I'll be happy to look at a few DCCV that blew the CCM to see if there is anything unique about them that may be easier to tell if you got a time bomb. I can also put them on the scope to measure the drive current and the dynamic response.
 
  #35  
Old 07-15-2012, 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by ccc
George,


A more wild explanation

The other harder to track down issue is the dynamic switching response. As the FET switches off, the inductor (coil) doesn't like its current to stop so it creates a large negative voltage that turns on the body diode of the FET as the energy is bleed out. May be some transient effects that weakens the copper over time until if fails like a fuse.
I know this is an old thread, but I am wondering if a conclusion was ever reached on how to protect the ccm and what exactly the failure mode is. I just removed the dccv and the driver side solenoid was pulling 8 amps! the passenger side was pulling about 1 amp. As a point of reference the new valve was about 750 milliamps. I would be happy to send my valve to for the advancement of science. I have the RCCM so I am waiting for the whole thing to be back together to see if it is blown.
 
  #36  
Old 07-15-2012, 09:07 AM
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The RCCM failure is usually a burnt out item (transistor or PCB trace) so if it's still driving current it's probably OK. An inline fuse of some sane value (5A?) should be OK. It's roughly a resistive load so if it takes about 1A when cold it'll take less as it heats up.
 
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Old 07-15-2012, 09:56 AM
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As JagV8 said the RCCM seems to be more resistant to getting damaged by the DCCV. Are you aware that you can get your CCM and RCCM modified with a protection circuit if you want? Might put your mind at ease?
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  #38  
Old 07-15-2012, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by clubairth1
As JagV8 said the RCCM seems to be more resistant to getting damaged by the DCCV. Are you aware that you can get your CCM and RCCM modified with a protection circuit if you want? Might put your mind at ease?
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Yes I have seen the post and it seems logical that a diode should protect from back emf. I have an STR with navi and once the new coolant bottle arrives I will check and see if the rccm is functioning. My inquiry was more along the lines of a root cause analysis. The idea being to mod the valve or boart to prevent me having to bruise my arms trying remove the dccv from the rats nest up front lol. I have done engine rebuilds that were easier...
 
  #39  
Old 08-26-2012, 11:19 AM
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Using an ohm meter to test coils like the DCCV can give you a basic test as to whether the coils are open or shorted. But coils are measured by impedence and sometimes you can have a coil that seems to teat ok but still ends up being bad.
 
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Old 08-26-2012, 11:23 AM
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I am about to replace the DCCV on my 2004 and if the ccm is bad I will disassemble an repair. If it has failed maybe I can give you some insight as to what failed and why.
 


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